Has Anyone Used Ipone R4000 RS Engine oil

[andyharding]

I am going to do an oil change before we go off to the isle of man at the end of August.

I can get a good deal on Ipone R4000 RS oil. Has anyone ever used it.

Please comment on your experiences.

Cheers in advance.

[startrek.steve]

I am going to do an oil change before we go off to the isle of man at the end of August.

I can get a good deal on Ipone R4000 RS oil. Has anyone ever used it.

Please comment on your experiences.

Cheers in advance.
Ive been buying some cheap 10w40 from Wilkinsons Hardware £10.00 for 5L. Seems OK.

[Alpinestarhero]

as long as its the right weight / viscosity and semi synthetic, i wouldnt worry about it. I had halfords own carp in my bike when i first brought it, and now use castrol...there is no differance in how my bike performs using differant brands, it seems

Matt

[jambo]

Not a massively well known consumer brand (certainly not one I'd heard of) but this just means good information on it is hard to find, rather than meaning it's a bad product. The product seems to be fully synthetic which may or may not be overkill for the SV depending on your point of view.

The most important thing is that it is a 10w 40 oil that meets API SF rating or higher. I'm currently using Halfords semi synthetic in my ZX6R and reading the spec on the back of it, whoever actually makes it (and then sells it to Halfords) makes it to meet API SH (which surpasses SF, and SG). So it's not bad stuff.

Just about any semi or fully synthetic motorcycle oil will be fine, the SV's not terribly fussy.

HTH
Jambo

[timwilky]

The product seems to be fully synthetic which may or may not be overkill for the SV depending on your point of view.




My quick delve into google land says it is a semi synth. Otherwise assuming it meets the standards it claims it should be fine for an SV.



Ive been buying some cheap 10w40 from Wilkinsons Hardware £10.00 for 5L. Seems OK.

Is it a motorcycle oil?. Car oils have friction inhibitors that can damage wet clutches

[startrek.steve]

My quick delve into google land says it is a semi synth. Otherwise assuming it meets the standards it claims it should be fine for an SV.




Is it a motorcycle oil?. Car oils have friction inhibitors that can damage wet clutches

This is it...

http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/invt/0257972

Whats better? Mineral based or Semi-Mineral based?

Steve

[Dangerous Dave]

As long as it is 10w40 and designed for motorbikes then you will be ok, there is no real differences between the engine oil brands!

[jambo]

This is it...

http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/invt/0257972

Whats better? Mineral based or Semi-Mineral based?

Steve
Roughly the order from cheapest to best goes:

Mineral (Mineral Based)
Semi Synthetic (Mineral based)
Fully Synthetic (Not mineral based)

I say roughly because a good quality oil of one type can exceed the standards met by a cheaper oil of the next type up.

The oil you are using is probably a car oil. I would really prefer this thread didn't turn into a heated debate about whether you can use car oil in bikes. The bottom line is that you can, but it can cause probelms with a wet clutch as Tim pointed out above, and motorcycle specific oil is designed to withstand use as a gearbox oil as well, where as cars use a seperate oil type for this.

There was an article in "Bike!" last year about a courier who got about 400,000 miles out of most of his bikes and used a cheap car oil, but then he would have had very few cold starts. It's all rather hard to quantify, so I just buy a cheapish semi synthetic motorcycle specific oil that's 10w40 and meets API SG or higher for my bike.

There you go, clear as mud innit?

Jambo

[timwilky]

This is it...

http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/invt/0257972

Whats better? Mineral based or Semi-Mineral based?

Steve


I am not an expert, but I would suggest you stop using that and hope your clutch has not been damaged. It looks like a mineral oil for "older" cars that don't require advanced oils.

The SV spec is API grade SF or SG. which is quite an old/low spec dating from the late 80s. However, the semi synths and full synth have better qualities in terms of film shear, life, cold start lubrication etc.

[21QUEST]

If you fancy reading some more....yeah, been checking up on the stuff ;)

http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/pub/070308_ACEA_sequences_2007_LD_and_HD.pdf

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/motorcycle_oil.htm



Ben

[startrek.steve]

I am not an expert, but I would suggest you stop using that and hope your clutch has not been damaged. It looks like a mineral oil for "older" cars that don't require advanced oils.

The SV spec is API grade SF or SG. which is quite an old/low spec dating from the late 80s. However, the semi synths and full synth have better qualities in terms of film shear, life, cold start lubrication etc.

how about this one?

http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/invt/0257960

Ive only done around 100 miles on the Mineral type.

[yorkie_chris]

I am not an expert, but I would suggest you stop using that and hope your clutch has not been damaged. It looks like a mineral oil for "older" cars that don't require advanced oils.

The SV spec is API grade SF or SG. which is quite an old/low spec dating from the late 80s. However, the semi synths and full synth have better qualities in terms of film shear, life, cold start lubrication etc.

The clutch slipping additives are in the lighter oils, you're alright with 10w40. Also just cleaning the plates off sorts them...

However I'd stop using the wilkos stuff on the basis that it's cheap crap!

[startrek.steve]

The clutch slipping additives are in the lighter oils, you're alright with 10w40. Also just cleaning the plates off sorts them...

However I'd stop using the wilkos stuff on the basis that it's cheap crap!

Ok, Ive just bought some Halfords Semi-synthetic 10W 40 motorcycle oil (£22.00!!),
This one:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10151&storeId=10001&partNumber=724302&langId=-1&source=td
shall I change the Wilco's stuff? or leave it till next oil change?

[yorkie_chris]

Be right for 500 miles or so probably, the cheaper stuff doesn't hold it's viscosity well.

Then again I'm not entirely convinced the halfrauds stuff will be too much better :-P

I use motul 5100 10w40, never had a problem with it.

[jambo]

Be right for 500 miles or so probably, the cheaper stuff doesn't hold it's viscosity well.

Then again I'm not entirely convinced the halfrauds stuff will be too much better :-P

I use motul 5100 10w40, never had a problem with it.

Let me put it like this. Halfords don't make engine oil, so they buy it from someone. So the only thing that matters are the ratings on the back. It's rated for JASO, and API SH. That's higher that quite a few well known brands. I assure you it'll be up to the task. I've been using it for a bit in the ZX6 on track, and on the continent as well as the commute, still looks fine to me after 4,500 miles (overdue oil change for the ZX6 this week).

[andyharding]

The Ipone R400 oil i am on about is used in Moto GP. I have a friend who can get me some cheap. it should be £40.00 for 4L he can get it me for £20.00 for 4L

[Spanner Man]

Morning all.

I just love these oil debates, as they usually start some handbag flinging!:D.

The main problem when assessing an oils performance is that any shortcomings in an oils ability to prevent wear are often not apparent for several thousand miles. With most motorcycles covering a pretty paltry annual mileage, a lot of people assume that because they are using a cheap oil & have had no wear issues that the oil is up to the job.

My recommendation, unless you're fiscally challenged (skint) is to use a bike specific oil, & a semi-synthetic at least. In my opinion nowadays there's little difference in the quality of any bike specific oil from the major manufacturers.

As an ex courier who has been piddling around with motorbikes for in excess of 30 years, I would take any claim of telephone number mileages using spry crisp & dry as a lubricant with a giant pinch of salt. I worked with a guy who claimed that his ex plod R80 BMW had done over 500k. It turned out that he had 3 engines & 4 gearboxes that he would rebuild & rotate as necessary when the current incumbent was clapped out. Not quite the same as an engine that has done over 200k without a strip down eh.
He also had an incredible pile of cycle parts, such as forks, wheels etc, so the only original bit on his bike was probably the frame.


Cheers.

[Sid Squid]

Ipone is well a known brand on the continent, if not so well known here.

As with any oil check that is meets the specs that the machine's maker requires, the oil you're referring to does, so yes, it will be fine.

[startrek.steve]

He also had an incredible pile of cycle parts, such as forks, wheels etc, so the only original bit on his bike was probably the frame.


Cheers.

sounds like Triggers brush, "Had this brush 30 years... only had three handles and six heads!"