Optimate 3 question, yes I am a stupid numpty

[skyline]

Hi all :)

Due to the the cold weather and the Datatool alarm, my sv battery is now flat so yesterday it was removed (cue the Datatool service mode 15-second beeping :smt011) and hooked up to the Optimate 3.

Come back to it today and the green led is lit up and everything looks fine, so I start to disconnect the charger and in some stupid moment of madness:smt101 take the clamps off the battery before unplugging the Optimate from the mains. The green led briefly changes to the red "weak" led before they vanish from the display.

After me doing some of this ](*,) and this :smt091 and a bit more of this ](*,)I put the clamps back on and the bottom "recovery" led lights very dimly. I switch the mains on again for the charger and the normal orange charging light is now on and the battery seems to be charging all over again.

I am a ****ing idiot, I really am...and it looks like the battery is now going to be on charge for another night while the bloody Datatool beeps to all and sundry...

My question is that would the battery still be ok after my screw-up? I'm worried now that the battery charging again so soon after the disconnection would shorten the capacity. I've also just remembered I forgot to take out the alarm fuse when taking out the battery, would I still need to remove it and replace when putting the battery back in to stop the alarm spiking?

Cheers for your help all

[Biker Biggles]

No idea about your alarm but the battery should be fine.Optimate charged it fully and you have simply connected it up on charge again.It will probably show two green lights in about an hour when it has gone through its cycle.

[Holdup]

Should be no problem at all, if i take mine of and plug it back in instantly the orange light comes back on, i read the booklet and im sure that the orange light is checking the battery (cant remember of the top of my head) its a trickle charger so as soon as it sense's the battery is fully charged it will just switch off again, tbh dont worry about it

[skyline]

Ah thats a relief to know, and in the time it's taken to write my essay above the green light's come up so the battery looks to be ok. Whew!

Cheers loads Biker Biggles and Holdup! :thumleft:

Now to get the battery back in and wrestle with the alarm...

[skyline]

Sorted.

Cheers again! :thumleft:

Next step is to install a weatherproof eyelet lead which should mean no need to remove the battery next time, just plug the Optimate into the lead and charge up.

[Alpinestarhero]

Get or make up a permanent attachment cable from the battery to under the pillion seat, then you can just connect the optimate to this to charge the battery and never faff about taking the battery out :D

[thedonal]

Get or make up a permanent attachment cable from the battery to under the pillion seat, then you can just connect the optimate to this to charge the battery and never faff about taking the battery out :D

And if you make them from higher ampage cable, they'll be good for jump starting too (Spanner Man advised that the standard connectors for Optimates won't handle this).

[fizzwheel]

Get or make up a permanent attachment cable from the battery to under the pillion seat, then you can just connect the optimate to this to charge the battery and never faff about taking the battery out :D

The optimate comes with just such a cable in the box with it, or both the ones I have bought did anyway.

We have Liz's 749 setup that way as the battery is a complete pain in the butt to get it as it requires removal of the fairing.

[skyline]

There is a lead in the box but Optimate now do a weatherproof one with a fuse attachment and a cover that goes over the charger connection. Part TM71:

http://www.accumate.co.uk/it020006.htm

I think you need the fuse on the lead if you have an alarm on the bike? Looking into it at the moment...

[Sid Squid]

And if you make them from higher ampage cable, they'll be good for jump starting too.
Whilst it seems initially like a good idea, I wouldn't do this.
The cable needed for the starting current is heavy, and will need to be unfused - unfused electrical items are undesirable, and should be kept to an absolute minimum - for the rare occasions that it will be needed, the risk of whatever insulation the terminals have being compromised and full battery current causing either battery damage or a fire is too great.
If you need to jump start so often that this seems like a good move - fix whatever's wrong instead.

When needing to jump start, for an easy method not requiring access to the battery, do this:
Connect the negative jump lead to a clean unpainted metal part of the frame or engine, take of the right side panel, lift up the green translucent cover over the terminals of the starter solenoid, (where the main fuse is), and connect the live jump lead to the left hand terminal, (the battery terminal - ensure you've got the right one), start as normal.

Doing it this way means you don't have to remove both side panels and the seat - four bolts - only one bolt for one side panel, easy.

[rictus01]

......all very sensible stuff.......:


But, but I like fireworks.........:(





;)

[ThEGr33k]

From my experience generally speaking if the charger says its charged then it should be. If you take it off of charge without turning mains off first it shouldnt matter...

The fact that when you reconnected the charger it took a little while to go green again could point at ell knCkered battery... What the charger does is charges till the voltage reaches 14.3V then goes to 13.2V and keeps it at that.

With a good battery that is showing charged you should be able to disconnect it and then reconnect it and see the charger go to fully charged pretty much straight away.

Sooooo. New battery I think. :(

[Sid Squid]

The fact that when you reconnected the charger it took a little while to go green again could point at ell knCkered battery... What the charger does is charges till the voltage reaches 14.3V then goes to 13.2V and keeps it at that.

With a good battery that is showing charged you should be able to disconnect it and then reconnect it and see the charger go to fully charged pretty much straight away.

Sooooo. New battery I think. :(
It might be new battery time but the above doesn't say so.

The charger will reset its progamme when the connections are removed, an Optimate almost certainly won't go back to reading fully charged straight away.

[ThEGr33k]

It might be new battery time but the above doesn't say so.

The charger will reset its progamme when the connections are removed, an Optimate almost certainly won't go back to reading fully charged straight away.

Mine does... As soon as the voltage goes so high (asin the voltage of a full battery) it goes to maintain.

[skyline]

Right, I've bought the TM71 lead and been spending this evening trying to hook it up to the battery terminals.

The big problem I have is that the red insulating cover which goes over the positive battery terminal is now unable to go into place because the eyelet lead is in the way.

With it being an insulating cover, would it be dangerous not to have it in place? Would cutting a slot into the side of the cover (so the cover would split either side of the lead) be a way round it?

Also I'm placing the eyelets between the loom connectors and the battery terminals, this is ok isn't it? A dumb question but I'm fearing if they're in the wrong place something bad may happen when I next start the bike...

Cheers loads again everyone :thumleft:

[Sid Squid]

Put the charger terminals above the existing originals, ie between the screw and the bike's battery connections, to avoid a reduction in contact area between the battery terminals and the starter cabling.
it's sometimes possible to thread the new connector through the red cover, ie the way the original cable does. The new ring terminal will have to be bent through 90 degrees to follow the original wire.

[skyline]

Awesome, cheers loads Sid Squid! I'll have a crack at it when I next see the bike :D

[ophic]

Connect the negative jump lead to a clean unpainted metal part of the frame or engine...
on a Suzuki?? Houston, we have a problem :rolleyes: