Front end swap

[fastdruid]

Today I have been mostly swapping my GSXR1300RX frontend for what I initially thought was GSXR600k8 but now turns out to be a GSXR1000K5/6 frontend.

Started off removing the old wheel, mudguard, forks & yokes.
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05569.JPG

Followed by the head bearings
(top tip btw, use boiling water to heat up the headstock, makes it much easier)
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05699.JPG

A bit of filing so that next time the new TWF bearing can be removed (its much thinner than the original).

http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05701.JPG

and then in with the new bearings

http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05702.JPG

Then just a matter of fitting the new bearing to the bottom yoke, pop that in and loosely assemble everything.

http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05704.JPG

Mmmmm, BDC and radial calipers, nom nom nom ;)

http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05705.JPG

Now all I need is a top yoke[1] and to drill and tap the bottom yoke for lockstops.

http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05706.JPG

Druid

[1] Bah, turns out I was sold GSXR1000k5/6 forks rather than GSXR600k8 so the GSX-R750K7 top and bottom yoke I bought are no use. Anyone want a GSXR750K7 top & bottom yoke with brand new radial bearing fitted?

[Dave20046]

Good day's work :)

That mean your wheel's up for grabs now?

[beabert]

Whats the difference then.

[Whitehouse]

Will have radial brakes and better quality fork internals i think

[beabert]

coolio

[fastdruid]

Whats the difference then.

Will have radial brakes and better quality fork internals i think

Pretty much, not 100% sure about better quality fork internals, hayabusa is 25mm cartridges, GSXR600 is 20mm so theoretically the 'busa pips the GSXR600, the GSXR though is much newer so who knows?

Main reason if I'm honest is I want radial calipers and while I could **** about with different fork bottoms its far easier just to stick a whole frontend on. That plus the GSXR600K8 forks look far nicer (I like the anodized goldy bronze uppers with the Black Diamond Coating and black bottoms).

Side bonus is weight loss, doubly so as its a lighter wheel & smaller discs.

Druid

[Sean_C]

That looks nice :)

[Bibio]

Pretty much, not 100% sure about better quality fork internals, hayabusa is 25mm cartridges, GSXR600 is 20mm so theoretically the 'busa pips the GSXR600, the GSXR though is much newer so who knows?

Main reason if I'm honest is I want radial calipers and while I could **** about with different fork bottoms its far easier just to stick a whole frontend on. That plus the GSXR600K8 forks look far nicer (I like the anodized goldy bronze uppers with the Black Diamond Coating and black bottoms).

Side bonus is weight loss, doubly so as its a lighter wheel & smaller discs.

Druid

what he was trying to say is, he is a tart.... :smt023

[fastdruid]

what he was trying to say is, he is a tart.... :smt023

Damn, rumbled. ;)

Druid

[yorkie_chris]

Pretty much, not 100% sure about better quality fork internals, hayabusa is 25mm cartridges, GSXR600 is 20mm so theoretically the 'busa pips the GSXR600, the GSXR though is much newer so who knows?


Some have said that the useable range of the adjusters is crap on the kayabas.

25mm cartridge is heavy. Interesting article from Max Mcallister here. (http://www.traxxion.com/AxxionCartridgesQA.shtml) Only advantage I can see is any midvalve would be able to create more force for the same pressure differential, so less cavitation. I'm no expert but I would go for the GSXR6 ones any time.

[fastdruid]

Bah, I've been done. I think I've worked out where my top yoke confusion has come from, I think they are GSXR1000K5/6 forks not GSXR600K8 as the seller claimed.

Its the only thing that makes sense as I couldn't find another set of 600 forks with DLC, couldn't find another set with red adjusters (they all seem to be blue), also matches up with them being 54mm not 53mm at the bottom yoke & the GSXR750K7 yokes don't fit.

Oh well, an easy way to check for sure I just need to measure the slider and see if it is 41mm or 43mm. :)

At least the GSXR600K8 wheel fits otherwise I would have been very annoyed.

Druid

[Bibio]

yes druid they are indeed 1000 k5-6 forks. if it were k8> they would have dished black tops.

[yorkie_chris]

Kayaba 20mm [-(

[fastdruid]

Kayaba 20mm [-(

Far worse than Showa 20mm?

I'm annoyed and having a dilemma, do I try and get a set of GSXR600/750K7/8/9 forks as per my original plan or stick with the GSXR1000K5/6 ones & try and get a top yoke?

Druid

[beabert]

well is there any disadvantages to these ones vs the ones you want?

[fastdruid]

well is there any disadvantages to these ones vs the ones you want?

That's what I'd like to know really. One of the issues is that the GSXR1000k5/6 are 5mm *shorter* than the GSXR1300, one of the reasons for going with the GSXR600/750K8 was that they are 13mm longer than the 'busa ones.

Druid

[beabert]

Regardless of the difference, I think its just going to bug you if you dont get the ones you want

[fastdruid]

yes druid they are indeed 1000 k5-6 forks. if it were k8> they would have dished black tops.

Like these you mean?

http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop/images/large/990D0-02H02-PAD.jpg

So are the one I have! Although a bit hard to see from this angle you can just see and I'm not going back into the garage tonight to get a better shot!

http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05706.JPG

Druid

[Bibio]

hmmm, dont go screaming to much just yet. seems there were some k8's realised with red adjusters. if not they have k-tek valves on them. the only way to tell is if the tubes are 43mm.

[fastdruid]

hmmm, dont go screaming to much just yet. seems there were some k8's realised with red adjusters. if not they have k-tek valves on them. the only way to tell is if the tubes are 43mm.

Yeah but with the DLC and 54mm at the bottom yoke too?

The GSX-R100k5 had the black dished caps too, with the red adjusters, DLC and in the same colour legs

http://www.mcnews.com.au/Testing/Suzuki/2005_gsx-r1000/gsxr_1000_tank_400p.jpg


Druid

[Bibio]

found out how to tell... the front mudguard lug is different on them. the 05 has two holes, the 08 has 1 hole. this is the long lug above the radial fitting.

[Bibio]

05 6031

08 6032

[fastdruid]

found out how to tell... the front mudguard lug is different on them. the 05 has two holes, the 08 has 1 hole. this is the long lug above the radial fitting.

Isn't that just the 1000 though? Looking at the microfiche the 600 k8 also has the two holes.

These forks were sold to me as being GSX-R 600 k8's not GSX-R 1000 k8's, I wouldn't be so bothered if they were GSX-R600k6 rather than k8 (although I'd still be a little miffed).

The other major difference is that the GSX-R1000 k7/8 has 56mm fork legs rather than the 54mm of the k5/6 (or the 53mm of the GSX-R 600/750 k6-9).

Oh and fwiw these have two holes there.

Druid

[yorkie_chris]

Far worse than Showa 20mm?

I'm annoyed and having a dilemma, do I try and get a set of GSXR600/750K7/8/9 forks as per my original plan or stick with the GSXR1000K5/6 ones & try and get a top yoke?

Druid

What I read is the range of the adjusters is a bit crap on the earlier KYB stuff, like you had before. However I don't know about those forks you have.

Ride it and see what it's like, if they're crap you can always fit some Ktech needles and pistons out of showa stuff.

[fastdruid]

What I read is the range of the adjusters is a bit crap on the earlier KYB stuff, like you had before. However I don't know about those forks you have.

Ride it and see what it's like, if they're crap you can always fit some Ktech needles and pistons out of showa stuff.

After much considering I CBA to try and get a set of GSXR6/75 forks instead and mess about with selling these on. Plus the GSXR1000k5/6 does have a central lock so even though its nominally a track bike I have an option of fitting a steering lock at a later date if it ever goes back on the road.

As you say I can always modify them.

Druid

[fastdruid]

I've just measured them and confirmed, 43mm tubes.

Druid

[fastdruid]

Well new set of GSXR1000k6 yokes and a radial M/C arrived today.

What has everyone else who's done the GSXR frontend swap done about the top seal? The SV has the rubber seal that fits round the entire headstock, GSXR has just a metal shroud and a seal under that, the SV seal doesn't fit over the GSXR stem and the GSXR seal doesn't fit in the SV head.

As it's nominally a track bike I don't suppose I *need* a top seal but it would be best.

Druid

[fastdruid]

While I was at it I weighed the yokes, the GSX-R1000 yokes are 500g lighter than the 'busa ones!

Druid

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah I weighed stock pointy one and changing to 600K2 saved half a pound or so, that was top yoke alone.

[fastdruid]

Exact figures are:

GSX-1000K6 Top yoke 550g
GSX-1000K6 Bottom yoke 1.472Kg

GSX1300R Top Yoke 713g
GSX1300R Bottom Yoke* 1.772Kg

Both bottom yokes with bearing on, all bolts in. Makes slightly more difference if you include the nuts too as the GSXR uses aluminium nuts too.

With bolted in lockstops and steel stem rather than OEM aluminium one.

Druid

[Nobbylad]

My K7 1000 front end arrived on Friday...just need a front wheel and some discs now :rolleyes:

[fastdruid]

Anyone know what angle the front forks go through for an 'S' curvy?

Druid

[fastdruid]

Just as a matter of interest (and so I don't lose it as its scribbled on the back of an envelope) I weighed the GSX1300R forks, each fork leg is 3.896 Kg, the spacer is 56g, the spindle is 437g

I've just remembered I meant to weigh the calipers before I sold them but forgot! :(

Druid

[Nobbylad]

K7 1000 forks and yokes weigh 9.5Kg

[fastdruid]

K7 1000 forks and yokes weigh 9.5Kg

'Busa is/was 10.277Kg (forks and both yokes) I presume K7 isn't going to be a million miles away from K6 either.

Druid

[yorkie_chris]

Just as a matter of interest (and so I don't lose it as its scribbled on the back of an envelope) I weighed the GSX1300R forks, each fork leg is 3.896 Kg, the spacer is 56g, the spindle is 437g

I've just remembered I meant to weigh the calipers before I sold them but forgot! :(

Druid

I sent some old style tokico 4 pots to grinch, including 2 jiffy bags and all bolts banjos and pads it was 2.7Kg

[Nobbylad]

Can't believe I weigh more than 8 x K7 thou front ends :(

[zadar]

Anyone know what angle the front forks go through for an 'S' curvy?

Druid
??
you asking about rake?

[fastdruid]

??
you asking about rake?

No, the angle the steering does lock to lock, I was looking to plan where to drill the yoke for lock stops rather than just copy where I did it before or just use a marker pen and see where things hit!

Druid

[zadar]

Just get set of stops from decosse or make similar and mount them to radiator mounts. It works great.

[fastdruid]

Just get set of stops from decosse or make similar and mount them to radiator mounts. It works great.

I would but I'm already mounting the fairing from them and I'm not sure how well they'll fit.

http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC04835.JPG

Druid

[zadar]

They will go right behind that bracket.

[fastdruid]

They will go right behind that bracket.

So they do, I need longer bolts though.

http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05759.JPG

Clearance is a little tight on the clocks with the radial M/C
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05758.JPG

Still I think that should do for clearance, I believe the ACU specifies 1 inch so I'm aiming for that as a minimum.
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05760.JPG

Looks like the M/C is a different pitch to the SV :(
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05762.JPG

Not that it matters, the lines are 90degrees out anyway...
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05763.JPG

I think I'll move the ign switch to the ign switch 'hole', obviously need to make a bracket for it but it fits (unlike in the 'busa yokes). Need to make a new bracket for the res too.
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05765.JPG

That then allows me to mount the Veypor in its place.
http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC05771.JPG

Druid

[fastdruid]

Oh yes forgot to add, 'busa calipers[0] are 860g each (no pads or bolts). The TLR calipers (steel pistons) with no seals[1] are 972g each.

Druid

[0] http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120533971386
[1] The bags with he seals in come to 21g so probably an extra 10g per caliper.

[yorkie_chris]

I like that dash :-)

[fastdruid]

Me too. :)

It looked good before, I think it'll look even better now. :)

http://www.fastdruid.co.uk/albums/SV650/thumbs/640x480DSC04849.JPG

Druid

[fastdruid]

I'm trying to work out exactly how much weight difference the change makes, so far haven't measured much of the new but I'll get there. :)

Today I measured the old brake disks, they are 1.540kg and 1.533Kg.

Anyone know what the original SV disks are?

Druid

[zadar]

Anyone know what the original SV disks are?

Druid
Lighter than any gsxr ones :)
5.2# set.

[fastdruid]

Lighter than any gsxr ones :)
5.2# set.

So ~1.18kg each? Not as big a difference as I thought but nearly 3/4kg lighter!

Druid

[zadar]

That is a lot for rotors. Stock curvy rotors are one of lightest around. Pointy are not that light :)

[fastdruid]

Haven't finished weighing stuff :)
TL1000R wheel with bearings, seals & inner space, no tyre, no disk bolts is 4.809Kg inc what I presume is 40g of balance weights.

D209 Qualifier RR is 4.5Kg

Druid

[Nobbylad]

Sorry to hijack your thread Druid, however I need some advice ('cos I is stoopid) regarding my Gixer front end. So I have a K7 750 front end, which I'm assembling at the mo. I've got it on the bike and just working out how to get the clip ons fitted properly etc.

As you can see, the top of the fork legs is wider, so I'm assuming the top yoke and the clip on should both sit on that bit (silly question I know, but just checking). When set up like that however, the top of the fork leg is bang on flush with the top of the top yoke (or even slightly under).

Am I right in thinking that I need to drop the fork legs down through the bottom yoke a bit more so that the underside of the top yoke sits flush or on top of the top castle nut (or should there be a slight gap)?

Does any of this make sense, or am I too stoopid even for words? :confused:




http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0475.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0473.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0472.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0476.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0477.jpg

(Yes I know the fork legs are a bit scratched...they were already like that, but they were a very good price and they'll be hidden when it's all together)

[yorkie_chris]

Top of the tubes flush with the top of the yoke seems fine. (Am I still asleep, I don't see problem?)

If clipons overlap the thinner section couple of mm it is no big deal. Those are TL clipons right?

[maviczap]

Top of the tubes flush with the top of the yoke seems fine. (Am I still asleep, I don't see problem?)

If clipons overlap the thinner section couple of mm it is no big deal. Those are TL clipons right?

Steering stem needs to come through the top yoke, which is what NL is on about. So maybe the forks need to be dropped down through the lower yokes more?

[Nobbylad]

Cheers Chris...was just about to text you.

Yeah, I think they are TLS clip ons, I've cut a thread in the locator holes and then put an M8 bolt through, had to trim it to fit into the holes on the underside of the yoke. I don't think they're that important other than positioning the clip ons right?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0480.jpg

Wasn't sure whether the clip ons needed to be all the way on the wider piece of the forks or whether there is scope for some overhang.

Should the top yoke sit bang on top of the upper castle nut or should there be some clearance (or doesn't it matter)?

[Nobbylad]

Steering stem needs to come through the top yoke, which is what NL is on about. So maybe the forks need to be dropped down through the lower yokes more?

Yes mate, that as well. As per my post above, how far off the steering stem nuts should it (the yoke) be?

[yorkie_chris]

Now it becomes clear

Yes drop forks down in bottom yoke, remember when we put them back in yokes just to keep them in place it was not precise just to keep them together.

[yorkie_chris]

just give me a ring, save my fingers

[maviczap]

Cheers Chris...was just about to text you.

Yeah, I think they are TLS clip ons, I've cut a thread in the locator holes and then put an M8 bolt through, had to trim it to fit into the holes on the underside of the yoke. I don't think they're that important other than positioning the clip ons right?



Wasn't sure whether the clip ons needed to be all the way on the wider piece of the forks or whether there is scope for some overhang.

Should the top yoke sit bang on top of the upper castle nut or should there be some clearance (or doesn't it matter)?

On my swap, the yoke is bang up against the top nut, as the yoke once its torqued up, stops the top nut from undoing

But yours is a later model and looks like it has a locking nut instead of the yoke being used

[yorkie_chris]

Yoke needs to touch the adjuster nuts on all of them even with locknut and washer there. It needs to be clamped as a solid lump

[Nobbylad]

Cheers Maviczap and also YC!

[Nobbylad]

OK - next problem!

Putting everything together, no real dramas except for the ignition has just gone on, however it appears to be preventing the forks from going full lock to the left. Not sure if the steering stops are further back than stock, however when I try and go full lock to the left, the ignition hits the headstock.

Ideas??

This is the steering turned as far to the left as possible, with the ignition barren touching the headstock.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0481.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0482.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0487-1.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0483.jpg

Not the gap between the steering stops...
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0484.jpg

[fastdruid]

Looks like its the curly metal bracket thats touching to me.

Druid

[maviczap]

I had this problem with mine. All I did was grind the back off the ignition where it was touching until it didn't foul the headstock

[Nobbylad]

Looks like its the curly metal bracket thats touching to me.

Druid

Definitely not the curly cable holder (removed it for this pic)

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0487.jpg

I had this problem with mine. All I did was grind the back off the ignition where it was touching until it didn't foul the headstock

Really? Looking at it, seems there'd be a whole heap of alloy to grind off, like the area with the 'X' on here...

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0493.jpg

Here's a pick showing the right lock, is that too much (i.e. are the steering stops just set further back on the Gixer yokes), or about right?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0488.jpg

Finally, do these cables look routed correctly, as they're almost getting snagged between the base of the ignition and the sub-frame mount...

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0490.jpg

[maviczap]

Really? Looking at it, seems there'd be a whole heap of alloy to grind off.

I had to grind the alloy until it was flat!, but it was more to do with the way the ignition barrel sat in the yoke.

Yours looks like there's room to move it out, although I'll guess that it won't move far. How have you bolted it into the yoke? Dome headed allen bolts or plain allen bolts. It they're dome headed swap for plain headed bolts. It might give yoiu a few mm to play with?

[Nobbylad]

I used the original dome headed security torx bolts, however the barrel is almost tight to the headstock as it is.

I've updated the pics above to show how much of the ignition lock I'd need to shave off.

No other top yokes are compatible with the lower yoke are they (i.e. one with a central ignition hole)?

[maviczap]

Does seem like a lot to shave off! I only had to grind mine down to level with the pin from the steering lock. It was still quite a lot of alloy!

Swap the bolts over and see how much more room you get with just plain allen bolts.

The quick way would be to chop the outside of the yoke where the ignition barrel sits and then mount the ingnition barrel on a couple of plates. But I'd do that as a last resort, as you'll lose the steering lock.

I did on mine, although I think this is down to the lock stops. My yoke is more similar to the Sv one than yours

http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=558&pictureid=4069

[Nobbylad]

Cheers fella. The biggest issue is that the ignition mounting hole is on the left of the top yoke, so the steering stock doesn't work anyway. It is so tight it brings the barrrel far too close to the headstock and as a result, the steering lock housing is almost/if not just touching the headstock.

[maviczap]

Then grind away carefully on where it touches. As the steering lock won't work, then its not going to hurt anything. Just be care not to grind away on the bolt mounting point which is close by.

This was my biggest problem.

Don't know if the GSXR ingnition will fit the SV loom and would this solve any of your problems or create more?

[tactcom7]

Just a quick one Nobby, the locater bolts you have trimmed for the clip-ons are an MOT failure item, that is if they're not there then it's a fail. Not too sure what they'd make of it being chopped in half?

Just an idea mate... :)

[Nobbylad]

Cheers tactom, not sure they even get to see them on an MOT?!?

Mavizcap - great minds think alike! I've just swapped the barrel out of the sv ignition for the Gixer one. The wiring to the green block connector (that connects to the loom) looks identical, however there's another mini loom from the ignition as well. Think I read somewhere that this is the immobiliser for the Gixer but obviously isn't needed with the sv.

So, I've had to pack in for the night now, but reckon I'll try it with the Gixer ignition etc next weekend.

Cheers all for the advice!

[tactcom7]

Cheers tactom, not sure they even get to see them on an MOT?!?

Cheers all for the advice!


That's o.k mate, what he can't see he can't fail you on i guess!

I only know it because i left mine out when i first rebuilt it :rolleyes:

[maviczap]

Mavizcap - great minds think alike! I've just swapped the barrel out of the sv ignition for the Gixer one. The wiring to the green block connector (that connects to the loom) looks identical, however there's another mini loom from the ignition as well. Think I read somewhere that this is the immobiliser for the Gixer but obviously isn't needed with the sv.

So, I've had to pack in for the night now, but reckon I'll try it with the Gixer ignition etc next weekend.Cheers all for the advice!

I'd guess the connectors are the same, you just need to check the wiring ?

Would save you a lot of hassle if it did work.

[yorkie_chris]

Just a quick one Nobby, the locater bolts you have trimmed for the clip-ons are an MOT failure item, that is if they're not there then it's a fail. Not too sure what they'd make of it being chopped in half?

Just an idea mate... :)

I'm not convinced. What they make of bikes with no locator tabs/bolts? Or even handlebars.

Wheres 7755matt when you need him

[maviczap]

I'm not convinced. What they make of bikes with no locator tabs/bolts? Or even handlebars.

Wheres 7755matt when you need him

It hasn't been an issue at any of my last 2 mot's with the helibars fitted and my vario bars don't have locator tabs, so I'm not expecting any problems.

But maybe if the clip ons have locator tabs them maybe the MOT inspector is expecting them to be bolted up to the yoke?

[Bunks]

I had the same problem with my front end (oh er missus). I filed the holes on the in the ignition barrel to make the barrel sit further away from the frame and then filed off some of the lip. You can make it fit if you have problems with the GSXR ignition.
The only problem is the steering lock won't work beacuse the ignitions is off centre on the later GSXR yokes.

I'm sure you'll get it sorted.

[CheGuevara]

Nobby - I have the same front-end as you know. I used the K5 1000 top yoke, which has the ignition dead-centre as opposed to offset left. There was still a bit of filing on the holes (and back?) of the ignition barrel, but I also keep my steering lock (albeit dead-centre) and have no issues with fouling.

Edit: The GSXr has a few mm of fork protruding above the top yoke. I've got the manual with the exact figure somewhere and will post it when I find it, but I've set it as such (2nd pic) and it works quite well (still not nervous). Setting it flush won't hurt of course, but might be a little less responsive.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t247/bigfastyellow2/SV650/P1010385.jpg



http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t247/bigfastyellow2/SV650/P1010310.jpg

[tactcom7]

I'm not convinced. What they make of bikes with no locator tabs/bolts? Or even handlebars.

Wheres 7755matt when you need him


I can only go by what my friendly MOT tester told me...:confused:

[fastdruid]

The manual says under reasons for failure: "1. a. handlebar clamps not tight, or any bolt loose or missing (see information column.)"

http://www.motuk.co.uk/mcmanual_210.htm

I'd personally argue the point, glue some small bolts in place or cut of the locater tabs.

Druid

[Nobbylad]

Nobby - I have the same front-end as you know. I used the K5 1000 top yoke, which has the ignition dead-centre as opposed to offset left. There was still a bit of filing on the holes (and back?) of the ignition barrel, but I also keep my steering lock (albeit dead-centre) and have no issues with fouling.

Edit: The GSXr has a few mm of fork protruding above the top yoke. I've got the manual with the exact figure somewhere and will post it when I find it, but I've set it as such (2nd pic) and it works quite well (still not nervous). Setting it flush won't hurt of course, but might be a little less responsive.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t247/bigfastyellow2/SV650/P1010385.jpg



http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t247/bigfastyellow2/SV650/P1010310.jpg

Cheers mucka!

[Nobbylad]

Any ideas for routing the throttle and clutch cables?

Not sure the best way to route them but what I've tried so far doesn't look right.

Throttle cables seem to be very tight and only really seem able to go above the front subframe mounting lugs and behind the ignition barrel (the Gixer barrel is longer than stock) and also the clutch cable rubs on the base of the barrel, stopping it from going full lock to the right. I'm sure it's something obvious, I just can't see it.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0496.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0495.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a161/nobbylad/DSCF0497.jpg

[CheGuevara]

I forget exactly how they were stock, but didn't the throttle cables exit out the frame hole on the other side of the head stock?

[Nobbylad]

Nope...came out the same side as yours, I thought about routing them over the yoke but decided against it. It works with yours as you have the bars so can tuck the cables underneath them, but above the yoke.

[CheGuevara]

On mine did I maybe rotate the throttle tube 180deg then? Ie the cables should enter the housing on the underside of the bars? Yours looks like it's similar to mine (but can't see in your pics) and that's the only thing I can think of unless the GSXR bars are longer or relatively higher?

Edit - nevermind just found a pic of it stock and it does sit on the topside of the bars.

[CheGuevara]

Does this help any?

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t247/bigfastyellow2/SV650/4.jpg

[Nobbylad]

Yes and no mate, it proves the cables are routed correctly and shows that the reason I have a problem is that the Gixer barrel is on the lhs of the yoke and therefore that's why the stock yoke doesn't foul the cables.....still doesn't help me solve my problem though lol

[CheGuevara]

Start looking for the K5 1000 top yoke then and for now route it over the top as I have?

Edit - Mine don't go under the bars anymore -once I located and fit the top nut the steering stem there wasn't enough room. If you look at the pic at the top of the page with the V-Rod headlight you'll see what I mean.

[Nobbylad]

I guess that's gonna be the option :(

No problems with MOT etc with the cables not being completely tucked away?

[CheGuevara]

Can't see why there would be providing the throttle doesn't stick when turning the bars from lock to lock. Unless they want to argue that they might get hung up when riding upside down.

[fastdruid]

I didn't think the GSXR1000k5 top yoke fit the GSXR600/750 bottom yoke (and the forks themselves are a different diameter so you couldn't fit both yokes).

Druid

[Nobbylad]

I thought he had the same forks as mine tbh....anyway.

I just shaved off a piece of the stock barrel so that it goes full lock to the left. The cables will pass under the stock barrel and above the subframe mount, so all's looking good. Even managed to re-use the Gixer ignition shroud so there's no gap around the yoke mounting hole. Pity I couldn't re-use the complete Gixer barrel as that would have been neater and let me use the sterring lock (albeit it full lock to the right).

Thanks for the help guys.

[fastdruid]

Why couldn't you use the GSXR ign? Looking at it on mine it sits too low and clouts the bracket for the subframe, the only bit that hits though is the Suzuki version of HISS circuitry on the bottom which looks to be removable.

Druid

[CheGuevara]

I didn't think the GSXR1000k5 top yoke fit the GSXR600/750 bottom yoke (and the forks themselves are a different diameter so you couldn't fit both yokes).

Druid

K5 1000 top yoke is a perfect match to the K7 750/600 etc forks and bottom yoke -it's what I have and the ignition sits dead centre instead of offset left or right.

That said I don't know it will solve Nobbys particular problem, but might be worth a shot.

[fastdruid]

Er yes, if you scroll all the way back to the beginning I'm fitting a GSXR1000K5/6 set of forks which I originally thought were GSXR600/750k8

Of course it could just be the one I tried wasn't straight. :)

Druid

[Nobbylad]

Why couldn't you use the GSXR ign? Looking at it on mine it sits too low and clouts the bracket for the subframe, the only bit that hits though is the Suzuki version of HISS circuitry on the bottom which looks to be removable.

Druid

The bottom is removable, however I wasn't sure how much of the internals were still required for the main ignition. Although it missed the bracket for the subframe (by a few mil), it was catching on the clutch cable. If I could have removed the bottom piece (confidently) I'd have been v.happy.

[Nobbylad]

Dredging up this thread as it has some pics of my setup in it. Basically new front end is good, but feels like it's slower to turn in and also feels like I am leaning the bike more in the bends (than I would have had to on the stock forks).

I think YC recommended dropping the yokes a bit/taking the forks up a bit more through the yokes to reduce the height, how much of a difference will this make/how much should I lower the front end. I realise the 1st question is related to the second and I could always just play about with it.

Just wondered on opinions...

[yorkie_chris]

What tyre you using?

I can't remember saying that, if you do then take the caps off again and let the forks squish down until they stop so you can check they bottom before the mudguard hits the rad.

[Nobbylad]

Actually, I think it was Mavizcap.

I'm using a 120/70/17 Avon Storm Ultra

[maviczap]

Actually, I think it was Mavizcap.

I'm using a 120/70/17 Avon Storm Ultra

Nope wasn't me either [-X