View Full Version : Matts Yokes 998cc Comfort Kit fitment
danf1234
03-08-10, 04:36 PM
I have stripped all my bike down to fit the comfort kit tomorrow, but I have a question. How do I go about fitting the throttle cables? Do I need to remove the air box totally. There is noway I could get my hands in the gap. It looks a bit of a mare to be honest, so any advice appreciated! :confused::confused::confused::confused:
barwel1992
03-08-10, 04:39 PM
the only way i managed to remove the throttle cables from the throttle body's was to lift the tank and take the air box out (very simple to take out, no so to get back in) then you have full access to where the cables connect
Specialone
03-08-10, 04:41 PM
I have stripped all my bike down to fit the comfort kit tomorrow, but I have a question. How do I go about fitting the throttle cables? Do I need to remove the air box totally. There is noway I could get my hands in the gap. It looks a bit of a mare to be honest, so any advice appreciated! :confused::confused::confused::confused:
I done mine with it all left in place but tank raised, it was fiddly but a pair of long nose pliers are your friend.
Another tip, fit the controls to the bars before fitting them to the risers as they wont reach enough otherwise.
danf1234
03-08-10, 04:47 PM
I really don't see any alternative to removing the air box. The gap is tiny???
danf1234
03-08-10, 04:50 PM
Another point - I really think the kit needs some instructions. It isn't supplied with any at all.
Specialone
03-08-10, 04:55 PM
Another point - I really think the kit needs some instructions. It isn't supplied with any at all.
Youre not the first person to say that ;)
barwel1992
03-08-10, 04:56 PM
if you have a Haynes manual just follow the "instructions" for the naked sv
danf1234
03-08-10, 05:29 PM
Well tomorrow's D-day so I am going to try anyway. Even if it means I will be on here at tea time crying my eyes out!
barwel1992
03-08-10, 05:31 PM
lol :D
danf1234
03-08-10, 05:33 PM
I honestly think looking at the bike that the standard throttle cables would be fine. I might just see tomorrow!
Specialone
03-08-10, 05:54 PM
I honestly think looking at the bike that the standard throttle cables would be fine. I might just see tomorrow!
You're not the first person to say that either ;)
danf1234
03-08-10, 06:46 PM
Phil,
Do I detect a note of sacarsm?
Specialone
03-08-10, 07:00 PM
Phil,
Do I detect a note of sacarsm?
No mate, i wish i had tried the throttle cables first, some argue they work some argue they dont, been debated before hence my post, the lack of instructions has been rightly mentioned loads of times before and that was slightly sarcastic, nothing towards you or anybody i might add :)
danf1234
03-08-10, 07:20 PM
I will post my findings tomorrow after I have tried myself then! Did make me wonder, why change the throttle cables but not the clutch cable?
Specialone
03-08-10, 07:25 PM
I will post my findings tomorrow after I have tried myself then! Did make me wonder, why change the throttle cables but not the clutch cable?
They are gonna be a bit tight and will need to be re-routed, but if on full lock both ways and it doesnt affect the revs i cant see why not.
You do know the clutch cable has to be slightly re-routed dont you?
danf1234
03-08-10, 07:28 PM
Yeah I know what to do with the clutch cable ta,
barwel1992
03-08-10, 07:52 PM
lol the N cables on my bike are slightly tight and that's with cable routing. i do have renthal bars though
Yeah I know what to do with the clutch cable ta,
Ok so I got the kit today and very impressed with build quality and all. Bit frustrated by the lack of instructions but I managed to replace the yoke before the night came in.
I've been trying to figure out a way to assemble back the controls but I could use some guidance as to in which order and where should I re-route the clutch cable?
I hope tomorrow is not raining ...
Specialone
20-08-10, 07:59 PM
Dont put the yoke on until the clutch cable has been moved from around the fork leg, it must go directly to the lever from where it comes out by the tank.
Also assemble all the controls back on to the new bars before you mount them on the risers / yoke as they wont be long enough to get them on.
danf1234
20-08-10, 08:07 PM
Its a right **** off having no instructions isn't it! lol!
I still haven't got a satisfactory position for my clutch cable yet
Is there a longer clutch cable for sale somewhere?
Specialone
20-08-10, 08:33 PM
Is there a longer clutch cable for sale somewhere?
i can 100% tell you from experience, you dont need a longer clutch cable, i had this conversion on my 09 sv less than 3 months ago.
DarrenSV650S
20-08-10, 08:36 PM
i can 100% tell you from experience, you dont need a longer clutch cable, i had this conversion on my 09 sv less than 3 months ago.
but just in case you do ;) ..... you can get the naked sv clutch cable
danf1234
21-08-10, 06:43 AM
It fits easily in terms of length, but it just seems bent at the wrong angle.
It fits easily in terms of length, but it just seems bent at the wrong angle.
I see what you mean. It does look odd and unnatural because of the steel tubing. I wonder if the naked clutch cable has the same curvature.
Am I right assuming the switch boxes have to be re-routed as well instead of going round the shocks?
Oh, and one more thing ... How are you supposed to fit the brake fluid reservoir?
Thanks for all the advice ;)
Specialone
21-08-10, 07:46 AM
Oh, and one more thing ... How are you supposed to fit the brake fluid reservoir?
Thanks for all the advice ;)
What I did was, use the original bracket and screw, drilled and tapped the bars with a M5 thread, if I remember correctly.
danf1234
21-08-10, 07:59 AM
What I did was, use the original bracket and screw, drilled and tapped the bars with a M5 thread, if I remember correctly.
Yeah that's exactly what I did as well.
xXBADGERXx
21-08-10, 08:19 AM
I have the ABM kit from Matt before he CNC`d his own stuff , the Clutch cable was moved in the frame to suitable position and came direct out of the frame and into the clutch , no wrapping it through forks or anything . The 90 degree tube for the cable shroud was angled downwards . Brake reservoir on mine was just screwed direct to the brake perch on my bike , no bracket required . I have replaced the Clutch Cable recently due to the miles I have done and decided to buy one from a Naked SV , cost me about £15 for an original Suzuki one and they are not that much longer to be honest , I could have just ordered a normal one and it would have still done the job .
Got another one for you!
Inside each switch box there is a small plastic nipple that has a corresponding whole on each clip-on. Did you removed the nipple or did you drill a whole in the bars? If the later, how did you measure the correct angle?
xXBADGERXx
21-08-10, 10:18 AM
Colour the bar in with a permanent marker and fix the boxes at a high angle on the bar and screw them together , then rotate them to the right position very slowly ..... the nipples will cut a clear line through the permanent marker and the end point is where you spot drill your hole :)
Thanks! This looks like is going to take a lot more time than I anticipated :))
xXBADGERXx
21-08-10, 10:22 AM
Should take 2 hours tops mate , and that is with brews and admiring your own work , oh ..... and enjoy bleeding those brakes ....... Snigger .
If you add the extra trips at Screwfix for the security bits to undo those bolts, to HG for a replacement pair of heated grips (first ones were busted) it all adds up. But I very much enjoy it and with your guidance I should get there by the end of the day.lol
xXBADGERXx
21-08-10, 10:29 AM
If you were nearer I would come and do it for you .
If you were nearer I would come and do it for you .
And take all the fun away :p I appreciate your though ;)
DarrenSV650S
21-08-10, 10:40 AM
Faired vs Naked clutch cables
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k164/DarrenStewartTait/2763e0c9.jpg
danf1234
21-08-10, 10:56 AM
I used the old clip ons to measure the distance and then a blob of tippex on the nipple to get the orientation right.
I then punched the bar with a very sharp punch to stop the drill skidding. Then drilled 2 5mm holes. The bars are very hard, and my 12 volt dewalt cordless wasn't up to it. I switched to the 240V drill and it was a lot easier.
Swarf goes everywhere so use a cover.
Bleeding the breaks is a total basteward. It took me ages with a mityvac vaccum pump, but I eventually got them rock solid. I had air trapped in the master cylinder, that I removed by tapping it with a screw driver handle.
All my advice came from here, especially from Phil "SPECIALONE". The only thing I couldn't replicate was I had to remove the air box and he didn't.
Don't be tempted to use the OEM throttle cables, defo use the replacements. At full lock they are just too tight.
Any advice on adjusting / tensioning the throttle cable?
danf1234
21-08-10, 11:34 AM
I didn't need to really. Just put the gap on the screw tensions as close to the ones coming off and stuck em on. Worked fine.
Specialone
21-08-10, 11:36 AM
You want a couple of mm of side ways movement where you can see the cable coming out of the adjuster by the engine side.
You dont want the cable too tight so it wont relax when throttle rolled off but not slack so bugger all happens when you throttle on, just nice the best way to describe it.
Disclaimer...
My terminology may be incorrect, but i know what i mean ;)
BTW, Badger i took double that time, i didnt rush tbh, but i couldnt do mine in 2 hours, brake bleeding took at least an hour if not more.
barwel1992
21-08-10, 12:11 PM
an hour to bleed the brakes ??? take 15 min on the standard sv stuf
Specialone
21-08-10, 12:43 PM
Im not the only one who had problems, its common, especially after changing the lines as well.
Just when i thought id got it, more air appeared, i was doing it manually though with no bleed device, just old fashioned method.
I also got rid of every trace of the stock fluid and put dot 5 in.
I have done many cars whole systems in less time i must add, 4 wheels.
Speaking of breaks, I got 2 lines, one slightly longer than the other. The longer one I presume is for the nearside disc.
On one end, each of the line's head is slightly angled. Is this the part that connects to the master cylinder? Should the angle point inwards or outwards.
Sorry for asking so many questions (obvious for many of you) but want to do this right. The bike starts to look pretty awesome as I'm getting close to the end :)
Specialone
21-08-10, 02:19 PM
Speaking of breaks, I got 2 lines, one slightly longer than the other. The longer one I presume is for the nearside disc.
On one end, each of the line's head is slightly angled. Is this the part that connects to the master cylinder? Should the angle point inwards or outwards.
Sorry for asking so many questions (obvious for many of you) but want to do this right. The bike starts to look pretty awesome as I'm getting close to the end :)
I wouldnt know about yours cos i got mine elsewhere.
Offer them up and see what looks the best and most comfortable in terms of looks, function etc.
Mine werent perfect on mine i had an angle where i probably should have had a straight but it worked fine, just got on my nerves a little bit keep looking at it.
danf1234
21-08-10, 02:51 PM
My lines were a right faff. They seem about 5 cms too long so I had to make a clip, and buy a connector from goodridge. Brake lines were defo the biggest pian in the ar5e for me when doing the conversion.
Lol ... when I was thinking I'm almost done :)) Managed to connect them somehow to remain flexible but yes, they look a bit too long. Bleed time now ...
danf1234
21-08-10, 03:21 PM
Told you. Its a right royal pain in the back side. You need to get them just right of they will rub on the forks, or the fairing.
DarrenSV650S
21-08-10, 03:32 PM
I'm gonna wait till I get the yoke and bars fitted then measure what length brake lines I need.
How did you guys decide what angle to have the bars at? I was thinking just 45 degrees to give the best height and reach...
danf1234
21-08-10, 04:13 PM
I just sat on the bike with them semi loose and moved them until I got the most comfy position for me. I tightened them up and THEN drilled them. I also doubled check with pics off Matts website that I hadn't done anything real daft that put them miles out of their intended position
Been out for a test ride and I have some mixed feelings so far.
Definitely love the new look. Might be due to the fact I put effort into it but look ace. Riding position a lot higher and more natural. Handling is a bliss, I never imagined this bike can manoeuvre so easily through corners.
Need to adjust the clutch as it's a bit too tight, probably due to extra bends the cable took. I might have misjudged the angle of the indicator block :( as it seem a bit too difficult to reach. I will give it a week or two to get used to it before drilling another whole.
Ironically my back hurts after only 25 miles. I hope is due to being more tense with the new controls. I missed some gears, less rear observation etc. so I wasn't at my best.
Worst part are the throttle cables which dangle in front of the speedo making it impossible to read. What did you guys do about this?
Overall very happy. I can't wait to put a few hundred miles to fully get used to the new setup. Thanks again guys for your support and advice!
Check that gear lever and brake lever are still in a good position for you and adjust if necessary. I found my first ride after fitting it quite strange, it just takes a few miles to get used to it.
Bedhead
21-08-10, 08:16 PM
I did mine today, I had to remove the throttle bodies because there was NO WAY the return cable was coming off without it, not a great faff, hell of a lot easier than something like a SRAD.
The brakes were not much bother, I did it the old fashioned way, there's always a wee bit of air that gets stuck in the banjos at the M/cyl, but a quick tweak of the banjo lets it out, the ends with a slight kink go to the calipers.
One thing I noticed, when the bars are in the comfy position for me, the switches would hit the tank so I had to turn them round a wee bit, odd at first but I'll get used to it I guess.
The handling was pretty much as I expected, I'll probably use the bike a bit more now, I was riding my Bandit a lot more because it's just so much more comfortable.
How did you arranged the throttle cables? Do they obstruct the speedo in any way?
Bedhead
21-08-10, 08:29 PM
Just kept a standard ish routing, not too sure if the hang over the rev counter face, they're fine for the speedo.:)
danf1234
22-08-10, 05:48 PM
When I drilled a hole for the OEM brake reservoir, I refitted the OEM clip that guides the cables. It just holds them nicely away from the speedo reading.
I managed to fit the reservoir to one of the brake lever's bolts without the bracket and clip so that must be why it didn't occur to me.
Still, some shorter cables would be ideal. Any idea how long the naked cables are compared to these ones?
danf1234
23-08-10, 07:02 AM
No idea at all as I used the kit ones. I also found the OEM's were too short. Give them a bash if you think you can get them right with a bit of re-routing.
Couldn't you get some cable ties arranged in a way to hold them off the Speedo.
Couldn't you get some cable ties arranged in a way to hold them off the Speedo.
I did this with a couple of ties and I could clear the speed fine, although this obstructed the engine temperature LOL. The cables are also rubbing against the dash. I'll take some pics as soon as the rain stops to show what I mean.
xXBADGERXx
23-08-10, 04:13 PM
Mate , I may have a spare set of shorter braided lines , if it is a big issue then I don`t mind doing a swap as I am fitting brake calipers from an SV 1000 anyway and will need plates and longer lines , I already have a spare set of lines and some that are a tad shorter that are on my bike , so if you wanna swap then it will be no trouble to send you this spare set I have .
Unfortunately is the throttle cable that puzzles me. I managed to find the sweet spot for the brake lines. Appreciate your thought nevertheless ;)
danf1234
23-08-10, 04:39 PM
Have you thought of trying the OEM's back on the bike? I tried and thought them to be too short, but I may have missed something obvious!
It's been raining all day and haven't got a change to uncover the bike yet. I have no garage. :(
I'm tempted to give the originals a go but I was trying to find out if the N throttle cables are somehow shorter than the ones in the kit, yet longer than the S ones.
I might drill the handlebars as well like you did if that sorts the problem.
danf1234
23-08-10, 04:51 PM
Drilling worked for me. My speedo is clear. I just couldn't get the OEM's cables right. They were at full stretch on lock, which is not good considering what would happened if the throotle locked fully open. I wanted to use OEM cos they are better quality, but it just didn't feel right.
Manage to take a picture.
http://a.imageshack.us/img90/4408/img0279f.jpg
Specialone
23-08-10, 05:18 PM
I loosely cable tied mine out the way, worked fine.
It's been raining all day and haven't got a change to uncover the bike yet. I have no garage. :(
I'm tempted to give the originals a go but I was trying to find out if the N throttle cables are somehow shorter than the ones in the kit, yet longer than the S ones.
I might drill the handlebars as well like you did if that sorts the problem.
the cables for the N are completely different as the throttle cable housing is integrated into the switch gear. so no the naked ones don't fit the sport.
hope this helps.
danf1234
23-08-10, 05:32 PM
Here's piccy's of mine:
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/danf1234/bikehand004.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/danf1234/bikehand003.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/danf1234/bikehand002.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/danf1234/bikehand001.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/danf1234/bike005.jpg
Because of my height and rising position the cables are placed perfectly.
danf1234
23-08-10, 05:33 PM
I couldnlt get the bike out of the garage and photo upright because it is bucketing down outside!
DarrenSV650S
23-08-10, 05:41 PM
Jeez they're far too long. I might see about getting a naked throttle housing/switch gear and use naked cables.
Jeez they're far too long. I might see about getting a naked throttle housing/switch gear and use naked cables.
That would be real fun with the Hot Grips glued in place LOL!
Seeing the other pictures I am not convinced that drilling the handlebars and fixing the holding clip would make a big difference. From my view angle, pulling them slightly would only cover the speedo even more.
I need to try the originals before trying anything else.
DarrenSV650S
23-08-10, 05:58 PM
Glue? Why? lol
Just spray some hairspray in there and they will stay in place
Glue? Why? lol
Just spray some hairspray in there and they will stay in place
Is a bit too late for that now. lol
danf1234
23-08-10, 06:50 PM
No. its because the bike is parked at full left lock. When it is upright with the bars in the middle they sit perfect just under the speedo. Especially for my height.
Hence my comment about not getting it out and putting it on the abba in the rain. The photo's are a bit misleading, they were meant to show the bracket,
I've seen that but I also realised that my throttle body is rotated further back which affects the angle of the cables. Since it is now glued with the hot grips, I can't change it's position.
Rotating the whole grip would put the grip cable protector behind the brake lever which is bad.
danf1234
23-08-10, 06:59 PM
Yes. I have just looked at your original piccy. Your throttle body cable housing is mounted too far forward hence extending the cable loop. I put mine back to how the standard OEM cable was at about 90 degs to the bar and it the cable loop is perfect.
It seem the best position with the reservoir connected the way I did. Otherwise it would have rubbed on the reservoir's hose.
Clearly some instructions would have come in handy ... LOL
danf1234
23-08-10, 07:10 PM
As someone has said before "specialone". You are not the first person to say that.
Specialone
24-08-10, 09:54 PM
As someone has said before "specialone". You are not the first person to say that.
lol :) touche..
Well i've bit the bullet and bought a comfort kit too. Its all fitted apart from the brake hoses. I had a bit of an accident with one of them and it got trapped and squashed whilst testing full lock. I've got hold of another one so the damaged one will be shortened and used as a rear. The replacement was far too long so this and the undamaged one will also be shortened as i think they supplied a bit on the long side anyway. I've also drilled the bars for the switch gear and brake reservoir etc.
I also think the clutch cable isn't ideal so i've used a bit of rubber tubing over it where it rests on the top yoke. I've managed to get my new throttle cables positioned nicely by loosely tie wrapping them to the main loom. I've tested both full locks with the bike running and both cables are out of the way of the speedo etc. I've also added some black plastic allen head bolt covers on the risers as it gives it a more OEM look.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i281/monkey_bike_man/IMG_0040.jpg
Speedy Claire
29-09-10, 10:41 PM
I`m sure the advantages of the comfort kit are more than going to compensate for any inconvenience you`ve had fitting it. You`re going to love it :smt026
Yes i can't wait to try it out. It feels pretty good just sitting on the bike in the garage. Hopefully it will be a similar riding position to the Gladius i was lent when mine had a service. I didn't like the lack of a fairing on the Gladius though, reminded me of my Bandit days head bobbing about everywhere!
Jayneflakes
30-09-10, 07:41 AM
If you are really worried about your clutch cable, do what I did and fit a cable for a V-Strom 650. I got mine from Wemoto for about £10 and it fits great, although I have higher risers on my bar conversion.
Yes i can't wait to try it out. It feels pretty good just sitting on the bike in the garage. Hopefully it will be a similar riding position to the Gladius i was lent when mine had a service. I didn't like the lack of a fairing on the Gladius though, reminded me of my Bandit days head bobbing about everywhere!
You may notice the extra wind pressure on your chest and helmet as a result of the new position. I sorted it with a new MRA vario screen which makes riding on motorways boring again.
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/6013/sv1p.jpg (http://img830.imageshack.us/i/sv1p.jpg/)
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/6709/sv2q.jpg (http://img580.imageshack.us/i/sv2q.jpg/)
Some mirror extenders might come in handy since the new handlebars are wider.
danf1234
30-09-10, 08:19 AM
You may notice the extra wind pressure on your chest and helmet as a result of the new position. I sorted it with a new MRA vario screen which makes riding on motorways boring again.
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/6013/sv1p.jpg (http://img830.imageshack.us/i/sv1p.jpg/)
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/6709/sv2q.jpg (http://img580.imageshack.us/i/sv2q.jpg/)
Some mirror extenders might come in handy since the new handlebars are wider.
Are the standard throttle cables or the ones that came with the kit?
The ones in the kit.
I managed to feed them underneath the steering lock. They feel very relaxed with no tension and my speedo is clear :D
Looks good Maxinc, can i use the photo on my new website please. Fitting guidelines are available if requested but they are only pointers as we have over 80 different kits now.
Sure no problem. Guidelines are really important to be honest. If you business picks up, you'll make a lot of customers very happy if you provide them with some instructions or maybe pictures for routing the cables.
Routing the throttle cables was the worst part since I had to remove the air box (a bit of a pain to put back on) several times over the week to try different routes.
Overall I am well impressed with the build quality and the new riding comfort.
danf1234
30-09-10, 11:30 AM
You may notice the extra wind pressure on your chest and helmet as a result of the new position. I sorted it with a new MRA vario screen which makes riding on motorways boring again.
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/6013/sv1p.jpg (http://img830.imageshack.us/i/sv1p.jpg/)
http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/6709/sv2q.jpg (http://img580.imageshack.us/i/sv2q.jpg/)
Some mirror extenders might come in handy since the new handlebars are wider.
Looks good, I noticed you clutch cable is routed different to mine. It was just too tight when I tried it that way.
Yes i can't wait to try it out. It feels pretty good just sitting on the bike in the garage. Hopefully it will be a similar riding position to the Gladius i was lent when mine had a service. I didn't like the lack of a fairing on the Gladius though, reminded me of my Bandit days head bobbing about everywhere!
If you are really worried about your clutch cable, do what I did and fit a cable for a V-Strom 650. I got mine from Wemoto for about £10 and it fits great, although I have higher risers on my bar conversion.
Yes i may go for a new clutch cable once i've tried it. I'm going to give the double bubble screen i've got fitted a go first and i'm hopeing the mirrors are going to be ok too. I'm not that tall so fingers crossed. I got the brake hoses back today so will hopefully get my first ride at the weekend.
danf1234
30-09-10, 06:29 PM
I have a Puig double bubble and it is perfect for me. I am 5ft 11"
Thats good news then, i'm only 5'7" lol!
DarrenSV650S
01-10-10, 05:45 PM
Dont put the yoke on until the clutch cable has been moved from around the fork leg, it must go directly to the lever from where it comes out by the tank.
Also assemble all the controls back on to the new bars before you mount them on the risers / yoke as they wont be long enough to get them on.
Can I just ask why you would need to put any controls on before the bars are fitted? Everything splits in half except the clutch mount, but that's no problem because you just take out the cable.
:smt102
Specialone
01-10-10, 06:40 PM
Can I just ask why you would need to put any controls on before the bars are fitted? Everything splits in half except the clutch mount, but that's no problem because you just take out the cable.
:smt102
Thats if you wanna split them or take cable off, i found it easy just to assemble them before putting bars on.
Also the throttle tube can go on before fitting the bars.
Everybody has their own methods, that was mine.
DarrenSV650S
01-10-10, 07:07 PM
Ahh cool. Was worried I was going to get a surprise near the end of fitting it all :lol:
Can I just ask why you would need to put any controls on before the bars are fitted? Everything splits in half except the clutch mount, but that's no problem because you just take out the cable.
It's easier to fiddle with the cables when they are loose. Once the bars are in place, it becomes harder (not impossible) to fit the throttle and clutch cables.
As for the throttle body, it looks quite flimsy to force it in any way so better safe than sorry.
DarrenSV650S
02-10-10, 03:51 PM
It's easier to fiddle with the cables when they are loose. Once the bars are in place, it becomes harder (not impossible) to fit the throttle and clutch cables.
As for the throttle body, it looks quite flimsy to force it in any way so better safe than sorry.
I find it easier when the bars are on so I know how far I can position everything and what angle it can go at.
Anyway, took some pics of the S and N clutch cables just for anyone's future reference.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k164/DarrenStewartTait/DSCF0001-42.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k164/DarrenStewartTait/DSCF0002-35.jpg
Specialone
02-10-10, 03:57 PM
Did you find it necessary to fit a longer clutch cable? Mine was perfectly fine with the OEM one.
DarrenSV650S
02-10-10, 03:59 PM
emmm didn't actually try the old one to be honest lol. I had already bought it and since my standard cable was in need of replacement anyway, I just put the longer one on.
But yeh it probably would have reached if it had to. Did you have yours going through the forks then up and over? That's how I've got the naked cable routed
Specialone
02-10-10, 04:16 PM
emmm didn't actually try the old one to be honest lol. I had already bought it and since my standard cable was in need of replacement anyway, I just put the longer one on.
But yeh it probably would have reached if it had to. Did you have yours going through the forks then up and over? That's how I've got the naked cable routed
No, straight to lever, not around forks, if mine needed replacement at the time i would have done the same as you tbh cos that would be the route the stock cable went so would look more stock i suppose.
danf1234
02-10-10, 04:59 PM
Mines fine with Stock also.
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