Jumping out of 2nd back to neutral.

[tom-k6]

if im giving it the beans in first, change the 2nd, as soon as i start revving it past about 6000rpm, it will jump back to neutral


just wondered if its something the bike is doing or something that i am not doing right??

anyone else have this??

[warrenhewitt10]

just make sure you lift the lever up the whole way, this is hard to do at speed, i find second gear to be the most clunky on my bike

[yorkie_chris]

Make sure you're not shifting like a fanny, and that you're doing the right thing with the revs. If you've still got the throttle on and trying to shift it might not engage all the way.

Make sure you are deliberate with the lever and move it right up to the top of it's travel. Second is a longer throw than others.


Assuming you can actually ride a bike, how many miles on the bike? Has it ever been raced? These gearboxes are quite strong generally. But dogs and forks can wear if given sufficient abuse.

[tom-k6]

i got the bike at 5300 miles last november and now has almost 14000 so done a fair few this year, its probably just the longer travel of the shift, i'll nip out today and see what i can do differently,

thanks for advice guys,

[yorkie_chris]

Also check the lever is free and not binding, but this is less likely to cause this problem.

[breakz187]

its a binding lever - you have to lube/cleaner the contact surfaces between the lever and the peg. get some wd40 in there and then some oil or spray silicone grease. I've had this before, twice - both after the winter.

[lol omg wtf]

don't know if its the same problem but my bike started dropping out of second a few weeks ago, I had the clutch lever set stupidly responsive, as soon as I released it a fraction it was off sort of thing... don't know why, but hey that's how it was set.

anyway after I adjusted it to something more reasonable it solved the problem of the bike falling out of second.
:smt120

[breakz187]

when i said lever, i actually meant the the foot lever for the gear box.

[DaveW_42]

I used to have this too - for me it was just a case of being more positive with the gear change. Seems to be quite a common thing with the SV. As YC says, it's a longer travel than the rest of the gear box so really bang it in.

[yorkie_chris]

You don't have to be viscious, just make sure you move your foot up all the way :)

[Joeskeppi]

Does it on mine sometimes (2009, 4k miles) unless you smash the granny out of the shifter to put it into 2nd.

[yorkie_chris]

I'd advise you to actually look at how a gearbox works and realise that banging anyones granny will not make 2 pieces of steel slide into place if it bends the selector forks...

[Daywalker]

when i said lever, i actually meant the the foot lever for the gear box.

Yep try adjusting your gear rod lever down slightly 4mm/5mm with your riding boots on work for mine ok...........

[coxxy]

Hope this helps:
Since our change of detent arm, star and spring from stock set up to this:

www.factorypro.com/products/Factory_Pro_shift.html

we have had very few false neutrals across 1st - neutral to 2nd and up and down the box. Prior to this upgrade, two false gears at high revs cost us one serious accident and one possible race win. If the bike is 2004 or older it could be a good investment to fit one but dont expect change from £200. It would definitely sharpen up all gear changing though. There are other things it could be as has been said. Position of lever to foot, gear shift link arm to gear shift rod position (should be at 90degrees), set up of clutch adjustment, bent push rod, poor lubrication. Rider errors ? but you seem to have had it a while....................

[ryangarside]

mine does it sometimes if i go from first to second without clutch, even if im not giving it some death. i can ride gently and go for 2nd with no clutch, it'll go into gear no problem, and wont jump out of gear till i pin it wide open. bit ierd really but i just ride round the problem :) if i use the clutch into 2nd its fine. :)

[yorkie_chris]

Hope this helps:
Since our change of detent arm, star and spring from stock set up to this:

www.factorypro.com/products/Factory_Pro_shift.html (http://www.factorypro.com/products/Factory_Pro_shift.html)

we have had very few false neutrals across 1st - neutral to 2nd and up and down the box. Prior to this upgrade, two false gears at high revs cost us one serious accident and one possible race win. If the bike is 2004 or older it could be a good investment to fit one but dont expect change from £200. It would definitely sharpen up all gear changing though. There are other things it could be as has been said. Position of lever to foot, gear shift link arm to gear shift rod position (should be at 90degrees), set up of clutch adjustment, bent push rod, poor lubrication. Rider errors ? but you seem to have had it a while....................

retro fit parts from k5> bike is cheaper.

[christopher]

Mine (K5) has jumped out a couple of times - in 18 months of having the bike - because I didn't move the foot lever all the way up... usually no matter how high the revs and no matter if I clutchless up change or not, it slips in nicely so long it's firm (awats smutty comments).

[ryangarside]

awaits smutty comments? why would there be?

[yorkie_chris]

So long as his shaft is well lubricated

[Joeskeppi]

I'd advise you to actually look at how a gearbox works and realise that banging anyones granny will not make 2 pieces of steel slide into place if it bends the selector forks...

Tell that to Wayne Rooney.

Sarcasm detector not switched on, what I (obviously) meant was, make sure you shift fully.

[Loser]

I never have any problems with the SV doing this but instead been having this problem with daytona 675. I have tried everything mentioned in this thread short of taking the gearbox apart. I know i can make it work if i shift more deliberately and slower, which is difficult to do when you are used to the suzuki gearbox. I do notice that the amount of force needed to move the shift lever on the daytona is much heavier than on the SV, must be a stiffer spring on it and this certainly doesn't help. Anyone who's seen the inside of a gearbox know is there any way to reduce the spring tension? Obviously the other option is a rearset that provide a more favourable leverage ratio (or switch to race shift pattern)

[yorkie_chris]

The spring tension works both ways, harder it is to push it up the ramp the more help it gives you coming down other side.

Make sure the levers are at bang on 90 degrees to each other on the linkage, this makes a big difference.