-Ralph-
03-11-11, 11:06 AM
I know a couple of people on here have got TuneECU or TuneBoy and had a play, but given the number of Triumph/KTM/Aprilia owners on here nowadays, it's probably quite a minority?
I had a faulty connection to the O2 sensor on my Daytona which was causing some rough running and an MIL light on the clocks to stay permanently lit.
So I bought a 10 quid OBD2 to USB cable from ebay and downloaded a free copy of TuneECU, which allowed me to see the fault code to diagnose and fix the fault.
It also showed me that my fuel map was on version 10162, whereas the latest OEM version for my bike was 10180, so I loaded the new map with TuneECU.
There is a noticeable difference in torque and throttle response at low revs, and no noticeable difference in top end power.
Being a big capacity triple, the bike has always pulled well from low revs (3000 or so), but any urgency or power for an quick overtake needed 5000 revs or above, regardless of throttle opening. At this point with big throttle openings the engine note switches from the whine that the triple produces, into a growl and the bike romps off.
Now with the new map, it doesn't just pull from low revs, give it a handful and it growls and romps off straight away. I purposely went round a roundabout in third gear at 2000 revs, then gave it full throttle off the roundabout and up the dual carriageway. I was impressed. Not that I would ever ride it at 2000 revs anyway, it was an experiment, but previously it would have been open throttle and wait a few seconds for the revs to pick up.
Thought I'd post this because it's a really easy and cheap mod, and for me at least on a Daytona 955i, upgrading the ECU map from what it left the factory with, was a worthwhile modification.
Apparently if you apply custom maps, etc, you can get really big performance gains, but I'm not brave enough to do that and on a litre sports bike it's not needed.
I had to say to myself "feck it, I've got all winter to fix it if it screws up" before I did mine, as I was thinking 'ain't broke, don't fix it', but now I'm glad I did it.
I had a faulty connection to the O2 sensor on my Daytona which was causing some rough running and an MIL light on the clocks to stay permanently lit.
So I bought a 10 quid OBD2 to USB cable from ebay and downloaded a free copy of TuneECU, which allowed me to see the fault code to diagnose and fix the fault.
It also showed me that my fuel map was on version 10162, whereas the latest OEM version for my bike was 10180, so I loaded the new map with TuneECU.
There is a noticeable difference in torque and throttle response at low revs, and no noticeable difference in top end power.
Being a big capacity triple, the bike has always pulled well from low revs (3000 or so), but any urgency or power for an quick overtake needed 5000 revs or above, regardless of throttle opening. At this point with big throttle openings the engine note switches from the whine that the triple produces, into a growl and the bike romps off.
Now with the new map, it doesn't just pull from low revs, give it a handful and it growls and romps off straight away. I purposely went round a roundabout in third gear at 2000 revs, then gave it full throttle off the roundabout and up the dual carriageway. I was impressed. Not that I would ever ride it at 2000 revs anyway, it was an experiment, but previously it would have been open throttle and wait a few seconds for the revs to pick up.
Thought I'd post this because it's a really easy and cheap mod, and for me at least on a Daytona 955i, upgrading the ECU map from what it left the factory with, was a worthwhile modification.
Apparently if you apply custom maps, etc, you can get really big performance gains, but I'm not brave enough to do that and on a litre sports bike it's not needed.
I had to say to myself "feck it, I've got all winter to fix it if it screws up" before I did mine, as I was thinking 'ain't broke, don't fix it', but now I'm glad I did it.