View Full Version : Curvy Delayed Starting
The Lostboy
12-04-12, 01:02 PM
Hi there,
My '02 Curvy (with an immobiliser) has started to become temperamental when starting. Instead of being able to start it as soon as the iginition was on and the immobiliser was off, I have to wait about a minute before it will start properly.
What initially happened when I pressed the ignition switch was just a click and nothing else. 20 secs later it would start to turn but not catch, after about 40 secs it would almost catch and after about a minute (or on the fourth go) it would start up as normal.
I tried various different approaches and found out that if I just wait for a minute after turning the ignition on and immobiliser off it would start as normal (but trying to start it straight away would cause the same problem as above).
The problem has now developed to the point where I just get the ignition click repeatedly and it took a lot longer to start, suggesting the probelm is getting worse.
I have read through many other threads and have subsequently checked the side-stand switch, which seems to be operating ok. I have also checked and cleaned the clutch lever switch, which also appears to be fine.
The only thing that I had done prior to this starting was top up the oil that had gone below the minimum line. I have since changed the oil and topped up my fluids but no other work has been carried out since this started.
Does any one have any clues where I should look next for the source of the problem?
Thanks,
Tony
Sorry if this is a repetition.
Sid Squid
12-04-12, 02:49 PM
When the bike is running, does it run correctly? Are there any unusual noises from the engine? If yes to the first and no to the second then the oil level having dropped is not related, (but don't do it again - that's the way to scrap a motor quick).
When the bike is running could you stop it and restart it before the immobiliser arms without problems or the delay?
The Lostboy
12-04-12, 03:27 PM
Hi Sid,
The bike does run fine apart from occassionally the revs dipping rhythmically whilst idling. This only occurs when riding round town though so may be due to not being warmed up properly?
There are no noises from the engine, I'm glad to say.
I did try restarting the bike whilst warm and it still had the same delay, so the problem wasn't affected by the engine being warm.
Consider my wrists slapped re: the oil.
Thanks,
Tony
Geodude
12-04-12, 05:23 PM
This sounds like what i was getting:
Started doing this again yesterday but it was like there was something stopping the starter from turning? Press starter button starter goes to turn maybe a 1/4 turn but wont like somthing is holding it back? leave for anything from 10 seconds to a minute or two try again and its back to normal? Hard to explain in written form so hope this is understandable.
Its rare it happens and i never got to the bottom of it but here's the original thread incase there is anything there that can help you. http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=136951
Sid Squid
12-04-12, 07:50 PM
I did try restarting the bike whilst warm and it still had the same delay, so the problem wasn't affected by the engine being warm.
Did you restart it before the immobiliser arms? The question wasn't about the engine being hot as such but about whether the problem occurs only when you disarm the immobiliser, which points to that being in some way involved in the problem, or, whether it exhibits the fault when the immobiliser isn't armed-disarmed, which points to the fault being elsewhere.
The Lostboy
13-04-12, 12:39 PM
Hi Sid,
Yes I did try to restart it before the immobiliser kicked in and it still required a delay to start. Although I think I managed to get it to restart straight away as well.
Tried it again this morning and killed the battery before it would start. Sounds like the fuel pump is clicking and the engine turns a bit but won't catch, or is being stopped before it gets a chance to catch.
Will charge the battery up overnight and runs some more tests tomorrow.
Will also have a look through Geodudes post and see if anything in there strikes a cord.
Cheers
The Lostboy
15-04-12, 11:43 AM
So I've checked the solenoid by linking the terminals with a crocodile clip and this causes the starter to turn in the same way that the ignition does. So am I right in thinking that means the solenoid is ok as I get the same result from using the igntion as I do from bypassing the solenoid?
If so then my next job is to remove and check over the starter motor. Anyone know where I can get a starter motor rebuild kit apart from in the UK? The seals look pretty perished so reusing them won't be an option.
Thanks
The Lostboy
21-04-12, 05:30 PM
Just fitted a replacement starter motor (second hand one off Ebay, 'in working order' from a seller will excellent feedback, so I have to presume it works) and still no change. Key in the ignition, immobiliser off, first few presses of starter switch = nothing, after 30-40secs a click, then gradually begins to try to crank but doesn't make it. Then the battery dies.
Given the post above is it worth taking the starter solenoid out and checking it?
Any help greatly received as I'm a bit lost now if it's not the starter or solenoid!
Thanks,
Lostboy
MJC-DEV
22-04-12, 10:58 AM
I guess you put a volt meter on the starter motor terminal? It should show a voltage as soon as you press the button (I've had a replacement clutch lever that wouldn't close the clutch switch first couple of times unless really pulled back).
If the volts isn't right, follow it back to the battery, it could be the solenoid (assuming new battery of course).
Also: Is the load in cranking the engine too large due to start motor clutch fault?
So are you losing volts or have too high a current (causing lost volts)?
The Lostboy
23-04-12, 12:18 PM
Thanks MJC-DEV.
I checked the solenoid with a multi-meter yesterday and it appears to be fine. I also checked the side stand relay as I had access to it and this was also fine.
I will have another look at the clutch switch and side stand switch and test them with a multi-meter.
Any chance this issue could be caused by a faulty/failing CDI unit?
Thanks
Lostboy
Hi, I've had a very similar problem with my 99 curvy.
Turns overs over but not catching then just clicks.
I've changed the battery and the starter fuse,this seems to of solved the problem.
Although now I have some knocking when bike is in neutral,and a tiny oil leak too.lol
The Lostboy
19-05-12, 01:41 PM
I am going through the Haynes troubleshoot list for ignition system and I noticed that there is a wire/cable hanging loose between the cylinders. I have attached an image. Anyone know what this is, where it should be and if it may be related to my ignition problem?
Thanks,
Tony
Geodude
19-05-12, 07:27 PM
Looks like a carb heater cable to me.
Sid Squid
19-05-12, 07:56 PM
Any chance this issue could be caused by a faulty/failing CDI unit?
No, the ECU is not connected to the starter system in a manner that could stop the starter operating, (and the SV does not have CDI).
The loose wire is, as Geodude rightly says, a carburettor heater connector. This is not part of the problem your bike is suffering from.
The Lostboy
21-05-12, 08:46 AM
That's great guys, thanks for the info.
So what does the carburettor heater connector do then? Think I'm gonna have to chuck it in my local garage so I'll get them to fix that up while I'm there, just curious to know what's what.
Thanks,
Lostboy
BTw I managed to get it started again - changed the plugs, no joy, bypassed the clutch switch (only cleaned it up before) and she started first time. Thought I had sussed it, but it was still being temperamental starting after this so don't think that was the issue.
Geodude
21-05-12, 03:06 PM
It stops carb icing afaik
SoulKiss
21-05-12, 03:35 PM
Where are you based?
It may be that someone from here can help you out and save the visit to the local garage.
Sid Squid
21-05-12, 05:40 PM
It stops carb icing afaik
Well, it should, but they are... let's be diplomatic - ineffective.
The Lostboy
20-09-12, 08:40 PM
Finally got back to looking at the issue with my bike and turns out it was the immobiliser. A Meta System 357T, which I now know are notoriously unreliable.
Anyway spoke to Pete Mouncer from http://bikealarmman.com/ and he gave me loads of help over the phone and sent me a replacement alarm unit. The bloke's a legend and he saved me about £250!
Thanks for all your help with this!
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