SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking Discussion and chat on all topics and technical stuff related to the SV650 and SV1000 Need Help: Try Searching before posting |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools |
![]() |
#1 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
Hi there,
My '02 Curvy (with an immobiliser) has started to become temperamental when starting. Instead of being able to start it as soon as the iginition was on and the immobiliser was off, I have to wait about a minute before it will start properly. What initially happened when I pressed the ignition switch was just a click and nothing else. 20 secs later it would start to turn but not catch, after about 40 secs it would almost catch and after about a minute (or on the fourth go) it would start up as normal. I tried various different approaches and found out that if I just wait for a minute after turning the ignition on and immobiliser off it would start as normal (but trying to start it straight away would cause the same problem as above). The problem has now developed to the point where I just get the ignition click repeatedly and it took a lot longer to start, suggesting the probelm is getting worse. I have read through many other threads and have subsequently checked the side-stand switch, which seems to be operating ok. I have also checked and cleaned the clutch lever switch, which also appears to be fine. The only thing that I had done prior to this starting was top up the oil that had gone below the minimum line. I have since changed the oil and topped up my fluids but no other work has been carried out since this started. Does any one have any clues where I should look next for the source of the problem? Thanks, Tony Sorry if this is a repetition. |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
No, I don't lend tools.
Mega Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Skunk Works, Nth London
Posts: 8,680
|
![]()
When the bike is running, does it run correctly? Are there any unusual noises from the engine? If yes to the first and no to the second then the oil level having dropped is not related, (but don't do it again - that's the way to scrap a motor quick).
When the bike is running could you stop it and restart it before the immobiliser arms without problems or the delay?
__________________
If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
Hi Sid,
The bike does run fine apart from occassionally the revs dipping rhythmically whilst idling. This only occurs when riding round town though so may be due to not being warmed up properly? There are no noises from the engine, I'm glad to say. I did try restarting the bike whilst warm and it still had the same delay, so the problem wasn't affected by the engine being warm. Consider my wrists slapped re: the oil. Thanks, Tony |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |
Member
Mega Poster
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Durham
Posts: 2,675
|
![]()
This sounds like what i was getting:
Quote:
__________________
Black naked 1999 sv650 which im trying to keep happy Custom paintwork Saragon Customs Spray painting Electrical fault finding guide and Regulator rectifier test Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
No, I don't lend tools.
Mega Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Skunk Works, Nth London
Posts: 8,680
|
![]()
Did you restart it before the immobiliser arms? The question wasn't about the engine being hot as such but about whether the problem occurs only when you disarm the immobiliser, which points to that being in some way involved in the problem, or, whether it exhibits the fault when the immobiliser isn't armed-disarmed, which points to the fault being elsewhere.
__________________
If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
Hi Sid,
Yes I did try to restart it before the immobiliser kicked in and it still required a delay to start. Although I think I managed to get it to restart straight away as well. Tried it again this morning and killed the battery before it would start. Sounds like the fuel pump is clicking and the engine turns a bit but won't catch, or is being stopped before it gets a chance to catch. Will charge the battery up overnight and runs some more tests tomorrow. Will also have a look through Geodudes post and see if anything in there strikes a cord. Cheers |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
So I've checked the solenoid by linking the terminals with a crocodile clip and this causes the starter to turn in the same way that the ignition does. So am I right in thinking that means the solenoid is ok as I get the same result from using the igntion as I do from bypassing the solenoid?
If so then my next job is to remove and check over the starter motor. Anyone know where I can get a starter motor rebuild kit apart from in the UK? The seals look pretty perished so reusing them won't be an option. Thanks |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
Just fitted a replacement starter motor (second hand one off Ebay, 'in working order' from a seller will excellent feedback, so I have to presume it works) and still no change. Key in the ignition, immobiliser off, first few presses of starter switch = nothing, after 30-40secs a click, then gradually begins to try to crank but doesn't make it. Then the battery dies.
Given the post above is it worth taking the starter solenoid out and checking it? Any help greatly received as I'm a bit lost now if it's not the starter or solenoid! Thanks, Lostboy |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Falmouth
Posts: 621
|
![]()
I guess you put a volt meter on the starter motor terminal? It should show a voltage as soon as you press the button (I've had a replacement clutch lever that wouldn't close the clutch switch first couple of times unless really pulled back).
If the volts isn't right, follow it back to the battery, it could be the solenoid (assuming new battery of course). Also: Is the load in cranking the engine too large due to start motor clutch fault? So are you losing volts or have too high a current (causing lost volts)?
__________________
2006 SK6, wavy discs, 8.5N K-Tech springs, Debrix Emulators, Nitron Shock, Silkolene RSF Pro 10W, Eastern Beaver H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit, Avon Storm Ultra 2 tyres, Ebay billet brake/clutch levers Last edited by MJC-DEV; 22-04-12 at 10:58 AM. Reason: typo |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
Thanks MJC-DEV.
I checked the solenoid with a multi-meter yesterday and it appears to be fine. I also checked the side stand relay as I had access to it and this was also fine. I will have another look at the clutch switch and side stand switch and test them with a multi-meter. Any chance this issue could be caused by a faulty/failing CDI unit? Thanks Lostboy |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Starting problem - Curvy. | blackj | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 3 | 07-01-11 09:17 PM |
Non starting Curvy after drop. | Cris_A | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 10 | 30-10-10 05:22 PM |
Non starting curvy - not turning over. | Munch | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 5 | 04-06-10 05:01 PM |
Starting a Curvy Sv | Jamiebridges123 | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 4 | 08-04-09 01:27 PM |
Curvy SV starting problems | Bud | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 3 | 30-03-06 08:09 AM |