View Full Version : EP80/90 gear oils and chains
yorkie_chris
03-07-13, 09:56 PM
Who uses it in scottoiler?
I thought it would be perfect, it's thick and EP additives should be perfect for the rolling contact of chain.
However I couldn't seem to get it to flow through the oiler consistently so went back to old engine oil.
SvNewbie
03-07-13, 09:58 PM
Worth mixing gear oil and the old engine oil? Think mark_h mentioned that is what he does.
ever tried chainsaw oil in a scotty?
Don't use a scott but TUTORO use EP 75w90 in summer
sticks on the chain well and the RSV only had one chain adjustment when i fitted new tyres (4,000 miles)
Worth mixing gear oil and the old engine oil? Think mark_h mentioned that is what he does.
Nope. I use Scott oiler oil in my oiler but chainsaw oil when I do manual oiling.
SvNewbie
04-07-13, 08:37 AM
Whoops, must have been mistaken identity then. Still, seems like a reasonable thing to try.
_Stretchie_
04-07-13, 11:26 AM
Oooh, never thought of that, will watch this with interest, got a few litres of this after a change on the Disco
just thought of another, 2T.. if its good enough for the crankcase bearings in a two stroke then i must be ok for chains. BTW i use scottoil in my oiler.
yorkie_chris
04-07-13, 12:26 PM
2T is a bit of a dear do though.
cheep crap comma 2T 5ltr £20 which would last me about 8 years.
aesmith
05-07-13, 07:11 PM
I'm using EP90 in a Tutoro but I'm going to switch to something thinner, engine oil or chainsaw oil maybe. The gear oil is so thick that the adjuster has to be wide open, but then the flow rate seems very fiddly to get right. Also the oil is so sticky that it collects grit etc where it gets thrown off the chain.
Phoenix22
05-07-13, 08:00 PM
Into two pages now. Just throw this ****e away and use a dry lube.
No fling no hassle and more importantly no carbuncle of a scottoiler messing up your bike. These things have no usefullness with modern chains that have the lube sealed in. All you are doing is creating a home for grit to collect & create a very effective grinding paste.
I have never seen a decent install of one of these things yet.
come back when you can get 30k+ out of your chain and sprockets using dry lube.
dry lubes are fine if you want a show bike but some of use like to ride our bikes without the hassle of lubing a chain every ride or even half way threw. i have yet to find a hand applied chain lube that will last the 300+ miles i do every sunday.
Phoenix22
06-07-13, 07:22 AM
come back when you can get 30k+ out of your chain and sprockets using dry lube.
dry lubes are fine if you want a show bike but some of use like to ride our bikes without the hassle of lubing a chain every ride or even half way threw. i have yet to find a hand applied chain lube that will last the 300+ miles i do every sunday.
I'm back. :)
I have done...............twice!!!
The bike has done 66K now and I have just put the 3rd chain on. Previous ones were changed at 30K each & were not completely worn out. Conclusive proof to me that it works.
its just less hassle to use an auto . 20 notes gets u a manual type .fill with 75w90 EP.
turn it on for 5 mins . done job till next fill up .
aesmith
06-07-13, 05:48 PM
The bike has done 66K now and I have just put the 3rd chain on. Previous ones were changed at 30K each & were not completely worn out. Conclusive proof to me that it works.
What chain lube do you use, and at what intervals does it need to be reapplied? Also, you refer to "dry lube". Is that like the dry lubes used on bicycle chains (for example White Lightning), where you need to completely degrease the chain if you have previously used conventional lube?
I don't do 300 mile trips, but do 300 miles in a week and don't particularly want to have to lube the chain every day. Every week I could probably live with.
Tony S
i would say this was fairly neat and tidy
http://i39.tinypic.com/4q0qhz.jpg
marks on swingarm after 18k and original chain/sprockets
http://i44.tinypic.com/2qmqahf.jpg
so looking good for 50k i reckon.
each to their own and all that and what works for one wont for another. i'm just a tight fisted burger that hates having to buy stuff let alone having to fit it and would rather be riding my bike :-)
Phoenix22
06-07-13, 06:11 PM
I use Wurth dry lube or Muck off do a similar one. I just do it as part of the regular bike cleaning routine normally but A 1000 mile round trip to Scotland it was fine & needed no adjustment. The trip up was in rain of monolithic proportions by the way so it's not all fair weather use.
Every few months the lube does tend to build up a little so I just use a heavy duty degreaser and a jetwash to get it all off.
Like I said before, If you have a decent chain, the lube is sealed in. All you have to do is lube the rollers & stop the side plates rusting.
With a Scottoiler, you still have to clean your chain regularly anyway as the oil attracts dust and over time forms a very effective grinding past!! Another downside is that your rear wheel is always mucky. Plus they look ****e let's be honest.
Phoenix22
06-07-13, 06:14 PM
That install looks quite neat but I spot rust on the chain. I would have my head in the oven if I spotted that on mine!
heheheeeee. well its not bad considering the bike was left out all winter with no cover on it.
i think someone has OCD :-)
Phoenix22
06-07-13, 07:03 PM
You could be right there. I have been called a compulsive polisher. Once even polished each link on my chain with a dremmel!!
Well, Women have PMT, Man has garage!! nuff said ;)
I have CDO, it's a bit like OCD but all the letters have to be in the right order. :)
i would say this was fairly neat and tidy
http://i39.tinypic.com/4q0qhz.jpg
marks on swingarm after 18k and original chain/sprockets
http://i44.tinypic.com/2qmqahf.jpg
so looking good for 50k i reckon.
each to their own and all that and what works for one wont for another. i'm just a tight fisted burger that hates having to buy stuff let alone having to fit it and would rather be riding my bike :-)
Is the sliver bracket somthing to do with the oil nozzil?
yes it's my prototype speedo conversion for when you put a GSXR front end on. it incorporates the speedo sensor and the scottoiler feed nib which attach to my swingarm marker brackets. the pulse for the sensor is a disc with the magnets which attaches to the rear sprocket to create the pulses.
i also have just the brackets (well not at the moment as i need more stock) and the attachment for the oilier nib gets bolted to the bottom of the bracket. i have sold hundreds on this very forum.
yorkie_chris
08-07-13, 07:45 AM
I use Wurth dry lube or Muck off do a similar one. I just do it as part of the regular bike cleaning routine normally but A 1000 mile round trip to Scotland it was fine & needed no adjustment. The trip up was in rain of monolithic proportions by the way so it's not all fair weather use.
Every few months the lube does tend to build up a little so I just use a heavy duty degreaser and a jetwash to get it all off.
Like I said before, If you have a decent chain, the lube is sealed in. All you have to do is lube the rollers & stop the side plates rusting.
With a Scottoiler, you still have to clean your chain regularly anyway as the oil attracts dust and over time forms a very effective grinding past!! Another downside is that your rear wheel is always mucky. Plus they look ****e let's be honest.
No you don't, just keep enough of a low flow going that it washes the crap off.
Who gives a fook what it looks like. I got over 40k with a tsubaki sigma chain once. Pretty much fit and forget, sling some oil in the oiler every 700 miles and that is it. Tools not toys...
Fair enough I did resort to wearing gloves when changing tyres as the wheel gets about 1/8th inch of crap on it but that's the thing after a certain thickness of sh*te it becomes self-cleaning and doesn't get any worse!
Dicky Ticker
08-07-13, 08:18 AM
I use Castrol Racing chain lube,liberal spray every 4-500 mile and keep a small can of Worth Dry Wax Lube under the seat for when I am on extended journeys and got 42K out of a set of original Triumph sprockets and DID chain. When I renewed the chain and sprockets,even allowing for accelerated chain/sprocket wear I recon they were still good for 10-15k more.
I have considered auto-lube but if you gave a bike with a centre stand it only takes a minute to give the chain a spray when it is hot.
Each to his own and if it works for you why change.Proper chain adjustment,cleanliness and lube prolongs chain life a lot further no matter how it is done.
yorkie_chris
08-07-13, 08:42 AM
Proper chain adjustment,cleanliness and lube prolongs chain life a lot further no matter how it is done.
My thing with the oiler was no maintenance and cost. It's pretty easy to lube the chain on the SV with the (patent pending :-P) bit o wood... but still a LOT more work than not doing it :mrgreen:
I agree about castrol racing being the best one out of a can... but it's £8 a can and how many are you going to go through in 42k?
Old engine oil is free. And it keeps it oiled and clean... when it's oiled and clean you don't need to adjust it.
Phoenix22
08-07-13, 11:41 AM
Fair enough I did resort to wearing gloves when changing tyres as the wheel gets about 1/8th inch of crap on it but that's the thing after a certain thickness of sh*te it becomes self-cleaning and doesn't get any worse!
Each to their own. Not my style of biking tho', I like them clean.
Dicky Ticker
08-07-13, 07:22 PM
Alternatively for those not so mechanically oriented you can always have the alternative of shaft or belt drive.
Belt drive with the new style belts are reckoned to be good for 30k miles.
Shaft drive even better as it runs in an oil bath.
Auto-lube is good but it is not the be-all and end-all of chain maintenance and some people think that as long as it is filled up and working that their chain is being maintained.
My personal choice is chain with my trusty spray can which means that every time I spray the chain I can examine the condition of my chain. I will add that people can be a bit over enthusiastic with the spray when it really doesn't need all that much to keep a chain in tip top condition/
All down to the choice of the person in the end
my chain maintenance consists of lifting the chain with toes on my boot and then saying.. yep that's fine. i then look at the rear sprocket to see if there are any sharks fins then say.. its still good. get on the bike and ride.
i'm that lazy i even fitted a lube tube so i can get a few thousand miles without filling the oilier.
its bad enough i have to wash the bike. why cant you get self cleaning bikes....
yorkie_chris
09-07-13, 06:59 AM
Alternatively for those not so mechanically oriented you can always have the alternative of shaft or belt drive.
Belt drive with the new style belts are reckoned to be good for 30k miles.
Shaft drive even better as it runs in an oil bath.
Same as a chain then and a complete pain in the tits to change when it does need it?
Shaft drive... well I have an XJ900... run it on neglect and faith. Although I think the final drive oil was changed.... once... :rolleyes:
Dicky Ticker
09-07-13, 07:12 AM
Agree that they are all a pain but alas maintenance is a necessary evil if you want things to last.
Shaft drive seems to be a bit like gearbox and differential oil---always put off till next time,its only done 100k miles:D
Belt drive jockey wheels appear to be a weakness in that system more than the actual belts themselves.
Shaft drive on my Triumph Explorer is apparantly 'sealed for life' ;-)
aesmith
09-07-13, 02:44 PM
Alternatively for those not so mechanically oriented you can always have the alternative of shaft or belt drive.
The best arrangement that I had was a fully enclosed chain. The chain ran in rubber tubes top and bottom, so tension could be checked easily, and the housing was oil tight so the chain was kept lubed and clean. Of course that was a different bike, but the same goes for your recommended shaft or belt drive alternatives.
How long is its service life . 40k ???
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