Fluorescent lights

[Amadeus]

I have a fluorescent light in my garage and it no longer works (I think after power cut but couldn't be sure of that.
I've replaced the tube but it still fails to come on. I think the little capacitor (?) things need replacing - is that possible? Are they straight forward to replace - pull it out and out another in?

Thanks

[Spank86]

If its a strip light there ought to be a little cylindrical motor sticking out the side.

Push in, twist and it should pop out.

Could be that, although they usually go faulty slowly resulting in a light that takes ages to come on. You checked fuse boxes and stuff?

[Red ones]

If it's an old fitting - tube as big round as an inch, or even an inch and a half, then it's likely to be the starter.

Starters are dirt cheap and it's a straight forward swap to change it (just make sure you get the right size one to match the size of the tube)

If you have a newer electronic fitting it can be a little more difficult.

Don't forget it may just be the tube that's gone, not the starter. But I'd change the starter if the tube has gone - for the sake of 60p...

[thefallenangel]

Tube + starter. Although in work, I have now been fitting LED tubes with the mains straight onto the tube. So when it breaks in a billion years time it's only the tube.

If the choke has gone, more than likely the fitting will be scrap.

[andrewsmith]

Starter by the sounds of it.
TBH if its a T8 fitting junk it and buy a T5 as they're end of life almost

[Red ones]

T5 isn't going to last much longer

[andrewsmith]

T5 isn't going to last much longer

The manufacturers are saying about 10 years, as they're not developing the technology any further.
Going through lighting systems at work atm got a few which are end of life design

written with a brio

[Amadeus]

Thanks guys, sorry for the delay in responding. There were a number of reasons but the most significant one being that I'd not checked the fuse box... I have now and they're all good.
The old tube was an inch or so in diameter as suggested but the new one is much thinner.
I'll go and get a new motor thing and take the old one part this afternoon.

Thanks for the info.

Oh I suppose if it's not the motor either, it's a matter of getting an electrician in?

Thanks

[Red ones]

Fluorescent tubes are measured in 1/8th inch. A T8 is one inch diameter, a T5 is 5/8th inch diameter. If you had a T8 fitting it is likely to have been switch started with an induction starter and ballast, but the T5 is likely to need an electronic starter.

You could just take the tube back and change it for the right one, but to be honest in the long term you're better off getting a T5 fitting - soon you won't be able to get replacement T8 lamps, but the T5 tube is also typically 40% more efficient.

[Amadeus]

New motor fixed it - thanks guys.

Based in that success I'm considering setting myself up as an electrician now.

[yorkie_chris]

LED tubes? Any good? Want more light in the garage.

[Amadeus]

No, the really old fashioned ones from when you were young. Says something about their lifespan I suppose in that I've never needed to replace one.
But yes, there are much better options out there. When I get some spare cash I may address that but the list of things to sort out is very long indeed! :-)

[andrewsmith]

LED tubes? Any good? Want more light in the garage.

They're on parity with t5 fittings for light now, but are only about 20% more efficient at present over a twin t5 (82w for fluorescent and 65w for LED as the ballasts etc... Aren't any more efficient currently).

Savings seem to work more on the higher wattage fittings. I think the scheme in design at the minute (for work) is converting 110w tube fittings (120w total power) and it's looking like about 50w with equivalent lux levels. There is some very good systems coming onto the market now and are now cost effective over the design life.

written with a brio

[thefallenangel]

They're on parity with t5 fittings for light now, but are only about 20% more efficient at present over a twin t5 (82w for fluorescent and 65w for LED as the ballasts etc... Aren't any more efficient currently).

Savings seem to work more on the higher wattage fittings. I think the scheme in design at the minute (for work) is converting 110w tube fittings (120w total power) and it's looking like about 50w with equivalent lux levels. There is some very good systems coming onto the market now and are now cost effective over the design life.

written with a brio


Not 100% correct. a 6ft single fitting works out about 78w compared to 28w and is brilliant change when the choke goes (even more so on IP fittings which we have thousands of in work). Also the LED's can give adjustable angle. Also the light becomes more sharp than a flourescent, don't burn your hands on failing chokes. A lamp costs me around £30 and is a much easier mod than changing fittings, time saver and more cost effective. And life length and future maintenance make it more cost effective. The more we buy the cheaper they become. I can get them at a better price but my place won't mass buy them at 100 a shot. Plus it keeps people off your back when lights are failing left right and centre.

And them T8 to T5 adapters are worse than cheap chinese RCBO's. We are having them fail and last about 6 months longer than a normal tube

[Red ones]

I'd agree.

The T8/T5 adapters are a waste of money.
Light output of LEDs is fine - I'm willing to bet you regularly visit buildings that have made the change with no-one noticing. I now fit nothing but LED in my buildings, we changed the tubes at my son's school last summer to LED and even I didn't notice the first one to be done. I am willing to bet the staff haven't noticed, only the bills have got smaller.



In a domestic environment I would guess that financially they do not add up yet. The fittings, although much cheaper than a year ago are still fairly high (I've been paying about £30 - £35 recently for a fitting and tube), but in a garage the light is rarely going to be on long enough to save enough money to cover the cost yet.
If it's a garage at home I would look at a couple of single tube 5' T5 fittings for the time being and hold off anything for a few years. If you leave your light on 8 hours a day every day then there are good savings to be made.

[andrewsmith]

Not 100% correct. a 6ft single fitting works out about 78w compared to 28w and is brilliant change when the choke goes (even more so on IP fittings which we have thousands of in work). Also the LED's can give adjustable angle. Also the light becomes more sharp than a flourescent, don't burn your hands on failing chokes. A lamp costs me around £30 and is a much easier mod than changing fittings, time saver and more cost effective. And life length and future maintenance make it more cost effective. The more we buy the cheaper they become. I can get them at a better price but my place won't mass buy them at 100 a shot. Plus it keeps people off your back when lights are failing left right and centre.

And them T8 to T5 adapters are worse than cheap chinese RCBO's. We are having them fail and last about 6 months longer than a normal tube

The maths was based on a twin 6ft 35W T5 from Whitecroft lighting (http://www.whitecroftlighting.com/our-products/acf-duralite) Newys and CEF have the same product under their brands also

[yorkie_chris]

but in a garage the light is rarely going to be on long enough

I spend probably a bit more time in my garage than the average :)

[andrewsmith]

I spend probably a bit more time in my garage than the average :)

Has Yorkshire discovered electricity yet? ;)

[yorkie_chris]

Says the bloke looking at the pictures on a bog wall by the light of a burning mackem.

[andrewsmith]

Says the bloke looking at the pictures on a bog wall by the light of a burning mackem.

Touche

Well it was touch and go for hell freezing over at one point this afternoon

The Geordie Thermometer

50 Degrees. Southerners turn on their heating. Geordies plant their gardens.

40 Degrees. Southerners shiver uncontrollably. Geordies Sunbathe.

30 Degrees. Southern cars will not start. Geordies drive with their windows down

20 Degrees. Southerners wear coats, gloves, and wool hats. Geordies throw a t-shirt on (Girls start wearing mini-skirts)

10 Degrees. Southerners begin to Evacuate. Geordies go swimming in the North Sea.

Zero degrees. Southern landlords turn up the heat. Geordies have the last barbecue before it gets cold.

Minus 10 Degrees. Southerners cease to exist. Geordies throw on a lightweight jacket.

Minus 80 Degrees. Polar bears wonder if it’s worth it. Geordie Boy scouts start wearing long trousers.

Minus 100 Degrees. Santa Claus abandons the North Pole. Geordies put on their long johns.

Minus 173 Degrees. Alcohol freezes. Geordies become frustrated because the pubs are shut.

Minus 297 Degrees. Microbiological life starts to disappear. The cows on Newcastle town moor complain of vets with cold hands.

Minus 460 Degrees. All atomic motion stops. Geordies start to stamp their feet and blow on their hands.

Minus 500 Degrees. Hell freezes over……….Sunderland qualify for Europe.

[punyXpress]

Question : How many dotorgers does it take to replace a flescent tube?
Answer : 6 including OP and counting.
Question 2 : Do these tubes still give a strobe effect where moving objects ( lathes etc ) appear to be stationary when they most certainly are NOT! ?
Question 3 : " Aren't any more efficient currently "
Answer : Watt ?

[Red ones]

Q2: Not if you install 3 lighting circuits each on a different phase.

[yorkie_chris]

But I've only got one :-(

[thefallenangel]

I've got a spare single to 3 phase inverter.

[Red ones]

Or just put a halogen spot light close to the work piece. It doesn't have to be powerful