building from scratch [Archive] - SV650.org

SheepShagger

04-09-16, 04:06 PM

Hi boys and girls,

Newbie here, not even done my bike licence yet but in the process, been looking at bikes and the SV650 caught my eye. Thinking of buying parts, and building one from the ground up to my own preferences. I like both the curvy and pointy styles, but I'm more drawn to the curvy's trellis frame. is there much difference between the 2 in terms of rigidity/handling?

also, any good resources for parts, both standard and performance, I'm probably gonna go for a streetfighter style build, so and styying tips and resources would also come in useful. I've seen that JHS look like the guys to see about tuning so will prob build a motor with their internals.

Prob cost a fortune to build from the ground up but it would be nice to build something for myself, rather than a factory spec bike.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,

Chris.

Craigg

05-09-16, 08:21 AM

probably not what you want to hear, but i would be getting your licence, then buy a standard bike to continue learning the ropes

i have just passed my test in March, and have a naked pointy, and it is plenty for a first bike, and having ridden it for 6 months, i now know what i want to change over the winter (mostly just upping the spring rate to cope with my fat ****).

do you currently drive? because if not, actually riding out on your own after training is a massive eye opener, the driving standard is terrible.

tom_e

05-09-16, 09:34 AM

I love my SV but if I had that sort of cash to splash the only sensible choice is a better bike to begin with, they're pretty budget bikes after all.

shiftin_gear98

05-09-16, 11:30 AM

As tom_e said.
I love my SV, although it's my first big bike so a really small view point compared to all the other beasties you can get.
It's a budget bike for people on a budget, if you want to swap all the bits over from something flasher, buy something flasher.
Just buy a nice one and ride the sodding thing. If it doesn't rock your boat get something else.

Bibio

05-09-16, 12:19 PM

your just passing your test. keep the bike standard and build up your no claims. spend the money you would have on shiny tat and get advanced lessons instead. unless your old enough to go for direct access licence then you will have a restriction period, once the restriction is up then either move on or then use the bike as a project or keep the bike standard and well serviced as it will be worth more come time to get something else.

squirrel_hunter

05-09-16, 06:32 PM

Do it, and post pictures.

Yes buying a complete bike and modifying it would be cheaper and a better place to start. And while the SV is a great bike if you want to go full streetfighter buy one already done. But where is the fun in that? Go for it.

SheepShagger

06-09-16, 01:00 PM

Thanks Guys,

to answer a few questions, yes I currently drive, I'll be doing DA (I'm 35)

I like the look of the SV, was looking at a bandit too but they're everywhere.

I'm no stranger to fast vehicles or mechanics, having a string of modified cars when i was younger so I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty.

I've been on a bit of a splurge the last few days :D

Her's a list of stuff I've ordered:

2001 HPI clear curvy frame + V5 and loads of paperwork £75
2001 Swingarm £9.60!
Motor & Carbs £206
Rear wheel £25
03 GSXR 1k forks £210
08 GSXR Radial Calipers £50
99 SRAD Front wheel £70
Haynes Manual £14

As well as a load of little bits and bobs, spindles ect.

Looking forward to getting stuck in :)

tom_e

06-09-16, 01:21 PM

Fair play it'll be interesting to see how it turns out!

Bibio

06-09-16, 01:39 PM

you have made a mistake with the srad front wheel, they dont fit radial front ends easily. you will also require a special top bearing for the yokes on a curvy frame.

SheepShagger

06-09-16, 01:54 PM

you have made a mistake with the srad front wheel, they dont fit radial front ends easily. you will also require a special top bearing for the yokes on a curvy frame.

Hi Bibio, you're correct about the top bearing, I've got one on the way from TWFracing.com. Coul'd you elaborate on the SRAD wheel? I've got 99 SRAD yokes coming also to account for the width.

Cheers.

Bibio

06-09-16, 02:11 PM

its not the width at the yokes. the bottom knuckle on the USD forks that wont give you the correct width for the srad wheel.

also the top bearing http://shop.marksman-ind.com/99-3540-5-30x47x12-taper-roller-bearing-32906-15086-p.asp

your best bet is either stick to all post srad or srad parts dont mix and match. if you want post srad then best to get a yoke made so you can keep the steering lock. front end swaps have been done to death on this forum and if you search you will find all the answers you need.

have you thought about how you are going to get the speedo working?

L3nny

06-09-16, 02:33 PM

SheepShagger

06-09-16, 02:54 PM

Can't beleive how cheap the frame and swing arm was. If it were me though I'd use the swingarm from something else as the SV ones are the ugliest part of the bike. I'd go for something single sided.

Good luck with the build. :)

Thanks L3nny, agreed on this prices, that included delivery on both items too. I thought about the swingarm and prob going to get it coated in a textured matt black to so you pretty much look past it.

As for the speedo question, gonna run it off the rear wheel. Seems the simplest solution to me and apparently, the slightly larger circumference makes the speedo more accurate?

SheepShagger

09-09-16, 02:45 PM

Just to update, Lots of parcels have been coming over the last few days.

Frame and swingarm are at the bodyshop to be painted, Forks are at the local bike shop being split so i can get the horrible blingy gold sliders dealt with. When i stripped the heads and cylinders off the motor was mostly all good apart from the top of the exhaust flange on the front head has corroded away and the front tensioner was stuck in ( might account for the noisy front head the seller told me about). The heads are currently in the shop being stripped and the aforementioned issue welded up and machined. Bores look really good with no discernible lip at either end of the stroke so these will just be honed ready to accept new rings.

Just concentrating on getting the rolling chassis sorted before i get heavily into the mechanics and motor though.

nathcarr

09-09-16, 06:42 PM

Hi man
First of all good luck with getting your test done.
I do think this is a good idea and I wish I had the time to build something that is just been built for me from the ground up. So I look forward to seeing some progress pics [emoji16].

I know a lot of people say the sv is an entry level bike and that there are a lot of other beastly bikes out there for less money than building one but in my honest opinion, I think the sv is great for people learning and experienced, I've been riding 8 years now and have had 10 bikes and ive just got my sv650 curvy about 3 months ago and it is by far the best bike I've had so to me putting a load of money into it and making a one for your reference sounds like something I would too and not think twice about it haha.

But I do think if you've never ridden one before maybe buy a cheap winter hack or something to see what you like and don't like about it and change it from there maybe.

I'm kinda just waffling now and could go on forever haha but good luck with the build man
Admire your dedication

Awesome
Nath

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squirrel_hunter

09-09-16, 10:13 PM

Frame and swingarm are at the bodyshop to be painted

What sort of paint is being used?

SheepShagger

10-09-16, 08:35 AM

What sort of paint is being used?

It's be Spies Hecker 2Pack. The frame was in such good nick when I got it it just needs a scotch and paint. the swingarm will be etched first then textured matt black 2pack. The bodyshop who're doing it is the one I worked in for 16 years before I said goodbye to the automotive industry, so I'm pretty familiar with the quality they produce, not to mention I get a decent discount ;)

Colour wise the frame is going a very fine metallic blue, as the panels are going an aston martin colour called Morning frost, which is metallic white with a blue fleck. not decided what to do with the wheels yet though

SheepShagger

10-09-16, 08:37 AM

nathcarr

10-09-16, 08:42 AM

Thanks for the encouragement mate, I'll post some pics when it starts going together.

Awesome mate really looking forward to seeing it all now because I've just read that you worked in a body shop so should be a really good build, I work in a VAG approved body shop myself as a painter and i must say morning frost is gonna be a wicked colour to do the bike if it's the one I think it is, I'm really excited about this build for you haha

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SheepShagger

15-09-16, 04:18 PM

Ok so just to update, a few more bits have turned up, Both wheels, rear brake system forks and triples.

I mentioned that i hate the tacky gold on the GSXR USD's, so what I've done is order some very sexy, course, cross weaved carbon tubing (55mm ID 60mm OD). I've chamfered the inner edge down (roughly ATM) so it sitl nicely over the taper at the bottom of the forks, as per the image. This is rough at the moment and will require some light handed finishing. The gold bit you can see is going to be coated in the same fine metallic blue as the frame and the upper sections of the forks (between the yokes) will be a metallic black.

Here's a pic of of the early test fit, but you get the idea, Yay or nay?

http://i66.tinypic.com/5anpyd.jpg

squirrel_hunter

15-09-16, 06:20 PM

SheepShagger

15-09-16, 06:29 PM

No.

If you don't like the gold get them anodised a different colour or chose a different fork. I think there were some GSXR's with black forks but can't remember the exact model or year. Failing that there are some other bikes with forks of different colours...

I'd have prob got them done a different colour IF they were unmarked, unfortunately, finding a pair of 10+ year old forks without any marks is pretty much impossible. even though these were nice and straight, they have some chipping to the alloy and marks from removal/fitting ect.

I'm a fussy bugger :)

Blapper

15-09-16, 07:54 PM

[QUOTE=SheepShagger;3054249]Ok so just to update, a few more bits have turned up, Both wheels, rear brake system forks and triples.

I mentioned that i hate the tacky gold on the GSXR USD's, so what I've done is order some very sexy, course, cross weaved carbon tubing (55mm ID 60mm OD). I've chamfered the inner edge down (roughly ATM) so it sitl nicely over the taper at the bottom of the forks, as per the image. This is rough at the moment and will require some light handed finishing. The gold bit you can see is going to be coated in the same fine metallic blue as the frame and the upper sections of the forks (between the yokes) will be a metallic black.

Here's a pic of of the early test fit, but you get the idea, Yay or nay?

Doesn't really matter what we think, it's your bike mate. I actually like red and gold so I'd leave them. Also, what nathcarr said? Ive been riding for 46 years and right now, the SV650 is all the bike I want.

I think your challenge will be getting a nice transition between the carbon and the ali and also a good seal too.

Jayneflakes

16-09-16, 10:32 AM

I work in a VAG approved body shop myself as a painter...

We prefer the term ladies! :smt077

Sorry, I am a bad person!

Failing that there are some other bikes with forks of different colours...

Like the R1 for example! :thumleft:

This project sounds great, can't wait to see photos of it coming together. Good luck and enjoy. :D

L3nny

16-09-16, 02:22 PM

SheepShagger

18-09-16, 07:24 PM

Popped to the Bodyshop, Parts weren't finished (annoyingly).

Hopefully get them this week but have been researching other bits and bobs for the bike. Found a headlight unit I liked from a KTM on ebay, so bid and won that: Here (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232078855234?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Looking to go with a Duke 848 tail, really like the look of those and subframes are freely available, just have to fab something up for the battery, as I'll be looking to put a belly pan on her, was wondering if that would be a good place to hide a battery, and lower the COG at the same time, any thoughts on this anyone?

Cheers.

squirrel_hunter

18-09-16, 09:20 PM

SheepShagger

19-09-16, 06:46 AM

I think you'll struggle to fit a battery into a belly pan. Not sure how much room you'll have with the 848 seat unit, what are you doing for the subframe? As for battery relocation the Mini Twiners usually move it to the right hand side of the engine mounting off of the front cylinder. Not done this myself but there should be some information around here and some photos.

Thanks for that info on the battery, I'll take a look, as for the subframe, SV units are available for for peanuts and the 848's a little more, will prob get 1 of each and create some kind of hybrid, as I'll only need the very front of the SV unit (for the frame mounting points and tank bracket) I should have plenty of material left over for any extra strengthening that might be needed. I've seen someone else use this tail and fab a battery box underneath, could also be an option I guess.

carelesschucca

19-09-16, 12:09 PM

Low COG is not necessarily a good thing in motorbikes, cars yes, bikes no... Mass centralisation would be what you are after.

SheepShagger

20-09-16, 07:19 PM

Got sent a pic of the frame from the bodyshop today, I'ts only a low res mobile images but gives you an idea of the colour.

http://s15.postimg.org/htw02nl97/IMG_3710.jpg

Jayneflakes

20-09-16, 08:45 PM

I like that, nice job too. :D

SheepShagger

24-09-16, 01:35 PM

HI Guys, just an update and a few pics.

Picked up my parts from the bodyshop today, came out very nice.

http://s11.postimg.org/bbzbdrm33/20160923_162158_resized.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/bbzbdrm33/)

http://s11.postimg.org/fz9yt9ytr/20160924_140550_resized.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/fz9yt9ytr/)

http://s11.postimg.org/uwifuac27/20160924_140606_resized.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/uwifuac27/)

http://s11.postimg.org/8936o4wi7/20160924_140637_resized.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/8936o4wi7/)

http://s11.postimg.org/umaxaxxfz/20160924_140649_resized.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/umaxaxxfz/)

http://s11.postimg.org/vd3ngpztb/20160924_140658_resized.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/vd3ngpztb/)

http://s11.postimg.org/uc3erlitr/20160924_141133_resized.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/uc3erlitr/)

Got plenty on order ATM. Pair of Maxxis Supermaxx sport MA-PS boots (160/60/17 & 120/70/17 sound right?) A pair of Brembo Serie ORO discs and stainless bolts to accompany them.

A couple of Q's for the knowledgeable on here. what pads would you recommend? I'm looking at Brembo pads, would the SA series be plenty with the GSXR radial calipers and S/S lines, or had i may as well stump up a few quid more and go for the Brembo SC series?

Also, if you look at the image of the swingarm pivot in the frame, what takes up the space either side of the bearings, I've bought new bearings to go in, but not seen anything to take up that slack. Anyone?

Jayneflakes

25-09-16, 10:36 AM

This (https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5291050/sv650s-x-k2-99-02/rear-swinging-arm) may help you.

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/media/assemblies/large/ed/edb35268417fcc830ac653cff36ebd0a.png

Taken from the Fowlers website. :smt023

maviczap

25-09-16, 10:37 AM

Looking at the parts fiche on here there sholud be a thrust washer and a dust seal, plus another spacer

http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm

In all, including the swing arm shaft & nuts there should be 14 parts

Nice work so far, looking forward to the end result

maviczap

25-09-16, 10:40 AM

http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=501&pictureid=8088

SheepShagger

25-09-16, 11:11 AM

Thankyou kindly both.

Bibio

25-09-16, 02:40 PM

you probably know but you have your swingarm fitted upside down.

SheepShagger

25-09-16, 03:08 PM

you probably know but you have your swingarm fitted upside down.

I do now :rolleyes:

SheepShagger

26-09-16, 07:51 PM

Ugh, 30 quid for a 2 dust seals and 2 thrust washers.

Jayneflakes

27-09-16, 12:19 PM

Ugh, 30 quid for a 2 dust seals and 2 thrust washers.

Thirty quid? You were lucky... :smt064

Xe1a1wHxTyo

SheepShagger

27-09-16, 01:05 PM

Thirty quid? You were lucky... :smt064

Xe1a1wHxTyo

:smt019

SheepShagger

27-09-16, 06:22 PM

Some more goodies turned up today, nice shiny new rear disc, some to fasteners for said disc and my brembo SC series front pads. Found myself an 07 ZX10R shock for cheap on the bay, I'll send that off to be rebuilt and fettled, anyone got any good recommendations for having this carried out?

https://s12.postimg.org/tbzvf1j2x/20160927_150142.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/tbzvf1j2x/)

maviczap

27-09-16, 06:51 PM

MCT are very good, but a bit far from you, but if you're posting, then no problem

http://www.mctsuspension.com/

Jayneflakes

28-09-16, 08:35 AM

MCT are very good, but a bit far from you, but if you're posting, then no problem

http://www.mctsuspension.com/

Seconded, these guys did my fork rebuild when I put the R1 forks in my SV. Excellent service from them and great advice too. :D

SheepShagger

28-09-16, 07:05 PM

Cheers guys, gonna give them a ring tomorrow and see what my options are, the seller of the shock has agreed to hold the item for me and will send it direct to the company of my choosing to save me shipping it to them myself.

SheepShagger

03-10-16, 04:03 PM

Picked up my wheels just now, freshly balanced with new rubber and the Brembo discs all torqued up. Couldnt resist sliding the axle in, poping on a fork leg, and bolting up a caliper to see how it looks.

I know it's a long way off bit these little things help us keep going :)

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161003/0333a86d8b3b403f70d3ecb38bc42e0e.jpg

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Bibio

03-10-16, 06:36 PM

looking good.

if i'm not mistaken those are 2003 gsxr1000 forks and an srad wheel. if so then your going to run into problems.

if you use srad yokes to keep your steering lock you are going to have to space the discs out by 3.5mm each side to keep them inline with the callipers as the srad yoke fork centres are 214mm but the later ones are 207mm centres. good news is that you can use the axle and spacer/nut. if you are going to space the discs out remember that you will need longer disc bolts. i would also recommend that you use light fork oil (silkolene rsf 2.5w)on those 1000 forks as they are pretty harsh. you also need to factor in what weight you are. if your heavier than 13st the springs will need changed as they are only .85 stock.

if you use the later yokes you loose the steering lock you then have to find a way of reducing the discs by 1mm each side and reduce the spacer/nut by 3.5mm or get a 3.5mm spacer/washer made, wont matter about the axle as it will just protrude an extra 3.5mm.

due to the problems mentioned i always recommend that people stick to complete front ends from a given year including the wheel.

SheepShagger

03-10-16, 06:45 PM

Cheers bibio,

I'm a bit gutted if that's the case as took all these parts from the duckman racing youtube vid and apparently it all went together with no fuss. As for the fork springs I've got some öhlins springs in 10kg flavour on order.
The zx10r shock i bought is currently being stripped by MCT siuspension and will be valved and sprung for my weight range too.

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Bibio

03-10-16, 07:12 PM

pop a list up of the parts you have including years, this includes the year of the yokes.

you must weigh 18+st if you intend to use 1.0kg springs. one of the most common mistakes people make is looking at race spec when the bike is used on the road, do not use race spec if the intended purpose of the bike is road use as it will just hop, skip and jump all over the place.

depending on parts all could not be lost. if you use all later parts but the srad wheel then it does work but your discs are offset by 1mm each side. some people live with this no problem, its not like the pistons will pop out when the pads get low. then when funds permit and one becomes available then get the proper one and sell the one you have as the discs will go straight on the later wheel. the wheel your after is the 'diamond' spoke type.

to keep the steering lock with later parts you can get a custom top yoke made for around £150.

SheepShagger

03-10-16, 08:38 PM

As you said, the forks are gsxr 1000 03-04 yokes and wheel/axle are 99 srad 750, calipers are 08 gsxr 1000 and discs are busa/tl1000

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Bibio

03-10-16, 08:45 PM

think i have mucked up a little.

if you have the later forks on the earlier yokes with the earlier wheel the disc spacing is out by 2.5mm per side. later fork setups are narrower by 7mm including the wheel bearing outer face sizes but the earlier disc spacing is 2mm more than the later wheel. the disc spacing is very important as this gives you the fitment in the 'mouth' of the callipers which is the width the callipers mouth centres are apart on earlier and later fork setups.

since we are 7mm more for the earlier yokes and wheel bearings the axle and spacer/nut is fine but since the earlier wheel disc centres are only 2mm difference from the later we are 7-2=5mm divided by 2 (each side) = 2.5mm too narrow. i would guess that it will work and it just means that the pads will be off centre so the outer pistons will be further out than the inner pistons on the callipers. i would think as long as the callipers mouths don't rub on the discs it will be fine.

so yes duckman's front end swap more than likely did go together but not 'ideal'.

or i could be totally wrong.

it will be interesting to see the results of the discs in the calliper mouths once the front end is on.

SheepShagger

04-10-16, 07:58 AM

I think I'd be able to live with 2mm if that's the case. Just measured the mouths of the calipers and they're 9.5mm. I'll have a look once the forks are back together and the yokes are on. The wheels have just had brand new bearings pressed in so there should be zero play. Time will tell i guess.

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SheepShagger

06-10-16, 02:22 PM

More goodies turned up today. Original subframe and also an 848 unit i got shipped over from the states, complete with pillion footrest brackets, will be fun chopping these up and welding them into some kind of hybrid :D

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161006/0ad3e556bc7617eef1cd44a14827c1d1.jpg

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SheepShagger

07-10-16, 11:22 AM

Seconded, these guys did my fork rebuild when I put the R1 forks in my SV. Excellent service from them and great advice too. :D
Just got my zx10r rear shock delivered. Cracking turn around from Darren at MCT. He recieved it Tuesday and rang me yestetday afternoon to say it was done. Strip, service, revalve and respring. Well happy :)
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161007/a9c99b936011aba7829eafcaec4738ea.jpg

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Blapper

07-10-16, 05:03 PM

How much did that service cost Shagger?

SheepShagger

08-10-16, 06:50 AM

It was just under £250 inc VAT. I figured this was money better spent than getting a non ajustable, entry level YSS unit for the same money.

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Blapper

08-10-16, 01:30 PM

Sounds good. Does it fit without cutting the bike about?

SheepShagger

08-10-16, 02:06 PM

From what I've read, yes. But as im building the bike from the ground up, and going to be fitting a ducati S/F I'll ne cutting and shutting things anyway. The end of the external reservoir is very close to the standard subframe, but it does clear with a mm or so to spare.

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SheepShagger

08-10-16, 02:12 PM

Just rebult the freshly coated rear caliper with all S/S hardware inc pistons. Thought id mount it to check with the skimmed bracket and the speedo sensor and it looks bang on, the disc is right in the center of the caliper mouth.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161008/6296b17cc5a5e0e5b7747ee56ba8f581.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161008/cd905a6d3a406a30dd68309887fa8b91.jpg

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Bibio

08-10-16, 03:30 PM

Sounds good. Does it fit without cutting the bike about?

no. there is a certain fiddling/butchering of the rear under tray involved depending on what shock you use.

unless your a fast rider or do a lot of miles in one day or the rear shock is fubar or the spring rate is way out for your weight then your not going to feel the benefit of a decent shock. in the right hands you can scrape the pegs on a standard SV which is its max lean angle. the only difference decent bouncy bits make is overall stability of the chassis which allows you to push harder but only if you have the skill to do so.

if you plan on keeping the bike for a loooong time then an after market shock like a Nitron is money well spent but only if the above applies. once you have a decent rear shock then it WILL show the shortfalls of the front end so surprise surprise you will need to do that as well.

Blapper

08-10-16, 07:32 PM

nathcarr

08-10-16, 07:42 PM

Thanks Bibio, that sorts that question for me. I haven't touched the pegs and doubt that I will. I have found the bike to be pretty stable over bumps when I am cranked over so for my purposes, I suppose its good. I wish it dived less, but stopping that is the start of a lot of work/cost I guess.

I'm just guessing by diving your meaning the front end?? If it is, mine used to dive loads too mate then I changed the fork oil from 10weight to 15weight was noticeably different right away, still dives a very little but a massive improvement on how it was, maybe worth a try as its a cheap change to do
Hope this helps

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Bibio

08-10-16, 08:11 PM

I'm just guessing by diving your meaning the front end?? If it is, mine used to dive loads too mate then I changed the fork oil from 10weight to 15weight was noticeably different right away, still dives a very little but a massive improvement on how it was, maybe worth a try as its a cheap change to do
Hope this helps

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changing the fork oil for a heavier one will help slow dive but will also make the forks harsh over bumps. thicker oil flows slower through the damper orifices so cant react quick enough to sudden changes like bumps. most SV's have never seen a forks oil change so the suzuki stuff which is already like water is pretty much feked within 10k. depending on the make of the oil then 10w would be the heaviest i would go but when doing forks i tend to blend oil anyway.

weld up the damper rod rebound bleed holes.
springs to suit your weight.
open up the compression orifices and fit emulators with silkolene 7.5wt oil (or blend).

above will see you 80+% of cartridge fork performance.

Blapper

08-10-16, 08:18 PM

Hi Nat, Yeah, what Bibio said. I've done all that in years past on all kinds of bikes and end up with a worse bike at the end.

Hi Bibio, How many holes to block (or reduce)? Open up the compression orifices how much?

Bibio

08-10-16, 10:00 PM

just weld the top rebound bleed (top holes about 1mm) (IIR there is only one) and dress it. leave the bottom orifices alone and throw some silklones RSF 7.5wt oil in and add 3-10mm hight on the oil (reduce air spring to lessen bottoming) this along with the proper spring rate will see most people happy. blending oil is the last refinement. concentrate more on rebound than compression, you need it quick enough to react but slow enough to stop the 'pogo'. doing the bounce test you should see the yoke rise about 1-5mm settle and stop with no further stroke downward. on the standard forks if you do a bounce test they will rise up and down (pogo) about 2-3 times with the one push.

if your adding emulators then do as above but drill the bottom orifices out to 10mm or whatever drill size as near as you have at hand (stepper drills are good for this). using emulators makes the bottom orifices redundant so you want as much flow as possible. you then control the 'bump' via the popper spring tension. as with all suspension there is always a trade off with dive/bump setting.

the biggest problem with the SV is rebound as the check valves leak like a sieve. with it being a v-twin you should be using the engine braking and not the brakes so dive is not a problem.

SheepShagger

09-10-16, 04:54 PM

Frustrating day today, picked up a genuine Ducati 848 Evo corse SE tailfairing today, for the steal of £99. Only to get it home and find out the subframe i bought is the wrong one (too early).

Grrrrr......
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/5fd8bace0691201b8d392d1f4bdb927a.jpg

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SheepShagger

10-10-16, 06:41 PM

Couple of pics from tonight's tinkerings in the garage.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/ce5a68ec5199314bb2f26249e3b04acc.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/e9b7c7c7748062b517b83e36e8bec469.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/9922208c3d8734481dcfd4f9da911f23.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/91a52bcf7bb53856bf2049b7a522995c.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/1682c3338cd796903721f643abe590ad.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/a2b70057d0ef303c7971b1922715245c.jpg

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sl0th86

10-10-16, 08:31 PM

Nice! Loving the colours [emoji108]

Bike: 650 2000 curvy

maviczap

11-10-16, 05:34 AM

Lovely, but you'll need some nice stainless steel chain adjuster plates on the swingarms?

SheepShagger

11-10-16, 06:39 AM

Lovely, but you'll need some nice stainless steel chain adjuster plates on the swingarms?
This is on the list, cant seem to find any off the shelf. Unless anyone knows of a source, ill get a couple fab'd up.

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maviczap

11-10-16, 06:44 AM

Bibio did do some, but may have sold out.

i got some on ebay a long time ago

SheepShagger

11-10-16, 06:55 AM

Yeah i saw that thread, as you say, a long time ago. Ti playe is pretty cheap, might just by a sheet and get a load milled up.

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Jayneflakes

11-10-16, 11:47 AM

That looks great so far, one question though, who is that gorgeous little soul in the first photo?

Cats & bikes are the best things in life. This is my Jasper posing with my half finished Sylvie.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/2/1525/24271465994_95c1b7af0a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CYMBeC)S5031521 (https://flic.kr/p/CYMBeC) by Jayney (https://www.flickr.com/photos/134975913@N04/), on Flickr

SheepShagger

11-10-16, 11:48 AM

That's Heinz, he loves to get in on the act :)

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Bibio

11-10-16, 12:39 PM

Bibio did do some

and i still have loads for the curvy but dont have time to fettle them :(

SheepShagger

11-10-16, 12:41 PM

and i still have loads for the curvy but dont have time to fettle them :(
Fettle them?

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Blapper

11-10-16, 03:30 PM

Finish or make.

SheepShagger

11-10-16, 08:35 PM

The joys of filing the horrible mold lines on the yokes the sanding and polishing by hand....

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/c528184fb32a18c7fc6b8420c5e962ad.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/f11378ea90489d13c39e5e5b56d619b2.jpg

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tom_e

11-10-16, 09:31 PM

Fair play, I'd probably have just splashed out a couple of quid and had them blasted and anodised or powder coated just to save my fingers :D

Looking good so far though.

Bibio

11-10-16, 09:56 PM

Fettle them?

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Finish or make.

i have the blanks sitting here but i need to countersink them so they fit properly (they are handed), not an easy task i can assure you. i suppose if you had a milling machine it would be easy but with it being stainless steel it eats bits so you have to buy expensive ones which it still eats but not as quick.

alas i dont have the time at the moment.

ophic

12-10-16, 08:32 AM

Fair play, I'd probably have just splashed out a couple of quid and had them blasted and anodised or powder coated just to save my fingers :D
yeah but...... shiney! :D

SheepShagger

12-10-16, 09:26 AM

Plus I've splashed quite enough in the last month [emoji14]

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tom_e

12-10-16, 09:38 AM

Plus I've splashed quite enough in the last month [emoji14]

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exactly so what's a little more haha

Please note this sort of thinking may be why most of my money goes on bike bits!

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Jayneflakes

12-10-16, 06:59 PM

Nicely done, I hand polished mine and then threw a polishing mop across them before spraying with a coat of lacquer. The lacquer on mine was because I am not that great with cleaning, so this kept it shiny without the need for soap and water!

Keep up the good work.

SheepShagger

12-10-16, 08:53 PM

More progress.....

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161012/13c166a7e6662dbb4d738a426ba2f4af.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161012/a4d96cc662c4ae9949d2607dda43a64f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161012/6ca49430057045b0f696034d01296099.jpg

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carelesschucca

13-10-16, 08:52 AM

You know this is growing on me. I wasn't sure about the colourscheme but yep... It works :-D

SheepShagger

13-10-16, 09:05 AM

You know this is growing on me. I wasn't sure about the colourscheme but yep... It works :-D
Thanks :) i'm pretty pleased with it up to this point.

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SheepShagger

14-10-16, 11:39 AM

Testing the look of the KTM headlamp headlamp unit....

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161014/c5da7313d530e6b08e825f5b59cef7b6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161014/9a2c73bf45e122ed6a7e951612e1ed7a.jpg

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Bibio

14-10-16, 05:49 PM

now the front end is on hows the discs looking in the mouths of the callipers?

nathcarr

14-10-16, 05:53 PM

SheepShagger

14-10-16, 07:13 PM

now the front end is on hows the discs looking in the mouths of the callipers?
Theyre looking fine, pretty much central from what i can see, certainly wont cause any issues.

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SheepShagger

14-10-16, 07:14 PM

Love how it's coming on mate [emoji106] not a big lover of the Ktm headlight personally but, I think what your doing is great so top marks for that and no doubt when all the bars and stuff are on the front end will
Look mega.

Keep up the good work mate [emoji106]

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Cheers man, it looks a bit odd atm but pretty sure it'll all tie in nicely once everything is the right colour.

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DarrenSV650S

14-10-16, 11:27 PM

Not sure about the half fork coverings or the big headlight, but it definitely has potential. Looking forward to seeing what it turns out like. Keep at it!

What is the target colour btw?

Geodude

15-10-16, 06:26 AM

Enjoying the build so far, keep up the good work :) Have the front forks been engraved?

SheepShagger

15-10-16, 07:20 AM

Not sure about the half fork coverings or the big headlight, but it definitely has potential. Looking forward to seeing what it turns out like. Keep at it!

What is the target colour btw?
The panels are going to be aston martin morning frost, a metallic white with a blue fleck.

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SheepShagger

15-10-16, 07:22 AM

Enjoying the build so far, keep up the good work :) Have the front forks been engraved?
The lowers have a carbon tubing slid over them, i ordered a meter in that weave, cut it tonsize and chamfered the inner, so it would sit nice over the taper at the end of the forks.

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SheepShagger

15-10-16, 12:14 PM

Sropped the bottom end off today for stripping and took the tank to my old bodyshop to get it prepped. Had a couple of small dinks so got them repaired and started on the base with the wheel to get rid of the surface rust csused by the lack of paint that goes under there.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161015/87e23e818cdb0410a60ddcc7594475a8.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161015/9239b77483bdf3140b2f4d770e10e9fc.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161015/291050c46ac6c25ca3505c60380a13e4.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161015/44755c4be2985cf009b8d629edb4f921.jpg

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