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I've a rather nasty oil leak coming from the bolts shown, firstly, what are these, and secondly should there be high pressure there? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170513/2c6ad9ae61ec0ab2ab31278d98c1249a.jpg this one is an example on a fresh engine,
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170513/d03af2f22f215de144a02e9ad046a477.jpg here we have mine. Now that bottom part of the casing does have a small cracked part, but the main leak starts from the upper bolt only under pressure (engine on.)
Help!
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That looks a bit nasty, how did it come to be cracked? I wonder if it could be welded up and a new thread tapped in,
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That looks a bit nasty, how did it come to be cracked? I wonder if it could be welded up and a new thread tapped in,
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It was cracked when I bought it in October, but I didn't notice it then. It's had a small oil leak since, nothing that's worried me drastically, but after attempting to dig around to find the cause I've made it a fair bit worse.
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It's a shame you don't have the missing part, you might have been able to JB weld it back on
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Just wondering if it's worth welding it up now to block it, how likely am I to need access?
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I'm not even sure what it's there for, someone on here will tell you soon. Have you tried wrapping the bolt in ptfe help seal the thread but I'd be careful you don't fully strip the thread out of the casting
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Last night I set the whole lot in prc, and when I checked it this morning it took seconds on idle to blow through and continue dripping. We wrapped the bolt and made a seal around the outside as well, seems nothing will stop it.
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Update- the upper bolt shown is now confirmed sealed, the cracked section is where the leak is coming from. Have tried heating and moving the lower bolt to no avail.
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The lower one won't even come out?
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No, appears to have sheared.
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It looks like it's the home of the oil jet (for the transmission). The manual doesn't show it very clearly (and it's a black engine). The picture was taken from Section 3-73 of the curvy manual So, if it is the home of the jet, oil would be under pressure there. The second pic describes the lower bolt where your casing is damaged as an oil gallery bolt - so an internal oil transfer pathway.
SV650rules
13-05-17, 02:25 PM
Looks like the oil galleries are cast into the engine (which coming to think of it is why they are called galleries and not pipes), which is where the 'oil gallery bolts' comes in, they are probably there just as an access point to clear out the gallery after casting and then used to seal the access holes.
If the black bolt will not come out to enable gallery hole to be blocked with welding, I would be tempted to make a repair with it in-situ using plastic metal, (it is amazing stuff and it can even be tapped with a thread after it has cured). the area would need to be degreased thoroughly (brake cleaner spray or similar).
Anyone done this before ? I have used plastic metal to make repairs to aluminium castings before, but never on an engine.
After thoroughly cleaning around the gallery bolt (which sheared off inside) I've applied metalset, and will later be applying another layer of prc to give it the best chance at holding. Will keep updated after refilling with oil and running, if this doesn't sort it then it's back to the drawing board.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170513/2585c7ab6a034e1807f37875f39afb9a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170513/02e8354d7d1c1b4169fe750fb10d9532.jpg
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As my Dad will say 'It's got two chances'
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AZ Pete
13-05-17, 05:23 PM
best of luck
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well, there's always these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/suzuki-sv-650-engine-cases-sv650-/252617119834?hash=item3ad127585a:g:ao0AAOSwKOJYGem x
The extreme solution! Could the sheared off bolt remains be extracted to enable a new one to be put in?
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I'm already watching those on eBay haha, the seller hasn't responded to my messages though! If this current method doesn't hold then I'll be trying to extract that bolt, but against a cracked casing I think it's more ideal to plug it completely.
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R1ffR4ff
13-05-17, 07:31 PM
If the metal bond doesn't hold you have a Boyes supermarket not far.They do a great water based epoxy putty.I've used on Motorcycle radiators to repair tubes and loads of other jobs.It's called,"Milliput" is a two pack mix
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR9.TRC2.A0.H0.Xmillip ut.TRS0&_nkw=milliput&_sacat=0
Totally clean the area to be sealed.Mix putty and use some spit on the putty and work it.This creates a kind of,"Potter's slip" glue.Press onto job.
Once it sets it is oil and waterproof.
HTH :)
ooohhh dear me. the top of that bolt has an oil jet there, if its missing then good luck. even worse if someone has stuck too long a bolt in and blocked the gallery.
Blapper
14-05-17, 07:15 AM
Looks like the DPO (dreaded previous owner) has over-tightened the bolt to try to stop the leak then when that failed because he busted the casting, sold the bike. :smt071
Update- after applying the metalset it's held nicely, hopefully it'll stay. If it doesn't last I'll be trying r1ffr4ff's solution with the epoxy putty as a final answer before I attempt a weld. Thanks all!
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Good job!
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