Re: Project: Garage Find
 

Yep the nipple is fine its the caliper body which has lost its thread. I didn't think about a Helicoil I would have to get someone to do that for me.

I have heard suggestions like this before. However I cant see how to make that work. I have access to a compressor so can give it a go, but as there is no thread in the nipple hole how do I make a seal to get the air in there and using what attachment?

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

it wont take much pressure to get the pistons out. push the air duster nozzle in the bleed hole without the nipple and cover the banjo hole with your finger or visa-versa. if you need too put some electrical tape on the air duster nozzle to make a seal.

i have pushed out slightly seized pistons with a tyre compressor doing the same method. so freshly serviced ones will come out no problem.

if your pistons are just serviced with RRG the piston will come out very very easy.

i got fed up with mucking around doing callipers so i invested in a set of blind bearing sliding hammer puller and put some o'rings on the expanding part to pull pistons out. two tools for the price of one :-)

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

Might have to give this a go then.

As for the slide hammer, yep got one of them. Bought it to do the wheel bearings and a very useful tool it has been. But what do you mean by putting some o rings into the pistons? What would stop them from ripping them out once you start the sliding?

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

put a bunch (i use 5) of big fat orings on the end of the puller then wind the puller so its nice and tight inside the piston and pull the puller. the puller has a lip on the end to stop the orings coming off. i put a rag on the floor then stand on the calliper to pull the pistons, i dont use the slide action, instead i just pull on the t-handle and if needs i twist a little. works a fekin treat. for really badly seized pistons i boil the calliper in a pot for about 10-15mins then while still hot i use the puller. if the pistons are moving freely that i don't even bother with the handle and just pull using the puller.

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

ooohh forgot to say the orings must be tight(ish) on the end of the puller. the orings then expand against the walls of the piston when you tighten the puller into the piston recess.

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

That sounds an interesting approach. I have looked at the slide hammer and brake pistons before and thought to myself how simple removing the piston would be if there was just a little lip manufactured into it for the puller to grip against like when removing a bearing. If the compressor fails I might give that a try.

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

as long as you can get the puller with the o'rings tight in the piston recess i can guarantee you the piston will come out. i have done about 8 front pairs and 4 rear with the puller set up and it has worked every time. the pointy rear are a nightmare as they are fairly large and the puller just grips.

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

knew i had a pic somewhere

http://i43.tinypic.com/157ynaa.jpg

Project: Garage Find
 

Don't make it difficult - if you're going to have the bleed hole repaired, do that then pump pistons out and refurbish as needed.

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

Back on it after that technical delay. I took the caliper half over to Rolling Art who fitted a Helicoil for me. The nipples that I had from Yambits I didn't like, nothing wrong with them functionally but the nut on them was 7mm and I'm used to 8mm from working on my SV so much. So I logged onto Wemoto and ordered a couple for an SV to use here along with some nipple covers.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psf0d3b675.jpg

With the caliper half back with the repaired thread I wanted to remove the pistons to ensure there was no swarf in there. There was, so I'm happy I went to the trouble of doing it properly. Tried pulling them out with a slide hammer bit and some O-rings but that wasn't happening so I used my additional brake bleeder rig which consists of a spare master cylinder attached to a spare handlebar held in a vice. I joined this caliper half to a spare caliper half and quickly filled and pumped the pistons out of the side I wanted. Cleaned the half up and reassembled.

Now lets carry on as if that didn't happen...

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7ef4d27f.jpg

That was what I was starting with. Covered in grease and 20 year old fluid, the leaver was broken presumably in a crash, the pads were contaminated and the paint was coming off.

The first step was to take the master cylinder and strip it down fully. I've never taken a master cylinder piston apart before so it was a learning experience for me. So this is what the internals look like:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps48f25932.jpg

The reason I wanted that out was that the paint on the master cylinder had flaked off over the years and looked awful. So I stripped it down including the brake switch that was damaged in removal (replacement sourced from eBay) and sanded the old paint down. I then masked it off and painted it using black spray on Hammerite. This process took a lot longer then I expected as the paint was taking 3 days to cure and would need 3 attempts to cover everything evenly. I thought it was the heat, but I think it was a fault can with a bit to much propellant in it. But in the end it was worth the wait.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb8b6f651.jpg

Once it was all dry I could reassemble the master cylinder using a new rebuild kit from Yambits. Getting the piston out wasn't too bad, once I'd prized the retaining rusted circlip out it really just popped out. So putting it back in should be easy right? Well... First you get the seals onto the piston then you put the spring and its seal in, followed by the piston. Steadying the housing with one hand you push the piston down with the other, and with your third hand you fit the new circlip. Yep bit of a problem there, but perseverance paid off and it was installed. Finally the cover is installed. I could now put that on the bike along with a new genuine leaver and adjuster bolts.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps92a60cfa.jpg

Turning my attention to the caliper I had cleaned up the body and the pistons which were in surprisingly good condition. A new set of seals from Wemoto and they could go back in. The caliper half joining seals came from Yambits. Interestingly Yamaha in the workshop manual says not to disassemble the caliper into its half's and does not list the joining seals, and as such they do not provide torque settings for the joining bolts. So I opted for 35nm as that is what is used on an SV's rear caliper. If anyone would like to offer me a larger number with a reason I'm happy to up it on the caliper.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb253b4e5.jpg

Now the caliper was assembled with its pistons I could then install a new set of EBC HH front brake pads and Yambits retaining pins. The pad spring and cover was then added and the caliper installed onto the fork.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps895f653a.jpg

Finally its a new brake line and HEL Performance took my custom as I use their lines on my SV. I opted for a simple black line to keep a standard, but subtly modified look which fits my brief.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdbc9e248.jpg

Fluid has been added and the system and bleed, but I've not got pressure at the lever yet, I expect there is just some air trapped in the system as it new. So I've zip tied the lever back and will give it another go tomorrow, not bothered about this at the moment as I'm sure with a little more work it will be fine.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psf18cd115.jpg

Just need to do the same to the rear brake.