Re: Project: Garage Find
 

Classic motorcycle mechanic mag should be in on this project btw.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

The clutch cover got my attention today. The original was scuffed up so I bought a replacement that wasn't damaged by the road and had that powdercoated with the rest of the engine. So I started out with an empty cover and a bag of bits.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps61b22b1a.jpg

And from the inside.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps33544fb1.jpg

Installed the oil seals and oil sight glass from Yambits. Then put the clutch push rod in lubing this up with some oil and installing its retaining cover and oil seal. Oil strainer and oil pump were next, followed by the water pump impeller. I couldn't install the oil delivery pipe as two of the screws were damaged so need to wait on replacements. The problem is these screws are loctighted in and it would appear that I need some new impact driver bits. And as a further consequence the oil pump drive remains off.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps44fe245c.jpg

The two stroke pump was swapped over from the old cover which was interesting as the cover I was using didn't have one on it so I needed to do a little more work there then I was expecting moving a bush over and installing the oil seal.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps52cdae4f.jpg

The only things remaining on the cover is to install the water pump cover and the oil pump cover. But the latter will have to wait for a bit.

And yes that is a chip by the kickstart seal. I had to shave off some powdercoat from it and the seal was being a little difficult, still not overly happy with it so might take another look at it at some point. But as I was driving it in the socket slipped and chipped. If only it was this easy to remove powdercoat where I don't want it... Anyway will tidy that up with a little black Hammerite before it will be installed on the bike.

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

The latest gap in the project was due to a mistake on my part. A fairly big one. The next job on the list was more engine work and the neutral switch was to be installed. The switch sits on the left of the engine as is basically a bolt that goes through the lower case and connects with a lump on the gearbox drum. When that connects the light comes on. However this bolt is made of plastic.

Being weary of over tightening the plastic bolt I thought the best thing to do was to tighten it up to 10mn, the minimum torque setting I have as nothing was listed in the manual for it and lets face it I don't want a bolt like that coming out.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8fd67478.jpg

Unfortunately 10 was to much as the head of the bolt sheared off. This left the plastic shaft in the bolt hole. So it was time for a stud extractor. Trouble is it just kept spinning until finally it gripped. But then it was just spinning within the now hollow bolt. The was until I gave it one last turn. And cracked the lower crank case.

Stripped the engine back down and got a little help to remove the stud extractor and the remainder of the neutral switch. The resulting crack went through the neutral switch thread, to the balance bolt mount thread on the bottom, through the gear box drum bearing recess, to the pan and then heading back to its start point.

I nearly cried.

Took the crank case around to be looked at and left it with Rolling Art Motorcycles for repair. Glenn first dipped the case to remove the powder coat. Then he clamped the crack shut and welded it up. The inner weld was smoothed back, the out was left as it. But you will only see it if you know its there. The threads were still good so nothing was done there but I'll use some thread seal on assembly. And the gear box drum bearing housing was left untouched but checked that the bearing still seated correctly.

When I got it back I decided to paint it with some VHT enamel. It looks good but the paint doesn't appear to have taken to the metal as well as I hoped. We shall see how it goes once the bike is ridden.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps33dd958f.jpg

Forgot to do photos of the real damage. Bad memories. But did do one of the internal repair with a new bearing installed. You have to look very closely to see the crack. Time to build an engine again...

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

So back to engine assembly. We shall take the steps covered before as read and start the updates from an engine with crank and gearbox assembled with the crank cases united.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1f8d330e.jpg

As points of interest, it took two attempts to get the cases together as the first time the output shaft became quite tight and the gearbox noisy in neutral. I have no explanation for this as all I then did was disassemble remove the gearbox and replace it and all was good. Could not see any issue with it but obviously something wasn't quite right the first time.

A tip when installing the gearbox drum put the retaining plate in place before pushing the drum all the way in as it makes it a lot easier. I've also not actually installed the replacement Yambits metal neutral switch as the thread seal hasn't turned up yet. But 10mn is what I'll be aiming for again.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps95405b59.jpg

So clutch bearing retaining plate was installed and then the shift cam and spring. A tip here is to set the cam on the bolt with the spring on the arm but not in the spring hole. Tighten the bolt and then position the cam arm on the drum. Tighten the bolt more while checking the arm movement until the bolt can be tightened no more. Now lever the spring into its hole. Tighten the bolt fully and check the cam position. Or at least that's how I did it.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscba6fcc8.jpg

Now the shift shaft was inserted and lined up. I've decided not to change the tab washer as the bend I put in it shouldn't have weakened it, it shouldn't interfere with anything, and best let it be.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pse846897a.jpg

Kick start mechanism slotted in nicely and once I had it all in I couldn't resist popping the lever on just to see how it worked, and to check it was all aligned.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pse846897a.jpg

And with the kick start gear on it was even more interesting to see how it all worked. I should also add that all parts were treated to an oil bath before assembly.

So that's about as far as I am now. Just need to work out a way to lock the crank to get the primary drive nut tightened up. I know the easy answer is to use the same method I used to take it off, but I tried locking the crank as the manual suggest and some other method from what I remember before giving up an using the rattle gun. Suggestions please?

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

I torque plastic bolts and nuts by feel. When the threads start to deform just slightly, they are tight enough, and you can feel this as a small increase in resistance. Snug would be my description of the final torque.
As for the primary drive nut, why not wait until the engine is in the frame with the sprocket and chain installed, then block the rear wheel against the swingarm?

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

So thanks to advice from the TZR forum I used a 2p to lock the crank. But first, the neutral switch.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps102ab4e5.jpg

Yambits supplied me with a new switch made of metal, and eBay found me some thread seal. So a good dab of that and 10mn had the switch installed.

With that in it was time for the stator and pick up to get back on board. I will tidy the wires up once its in the frame to get the rooting right and wire in the switch at the same time.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7b11f9c2.jpg

Rotor went on next over the woodruff key and torqued up using a 2p to lock the crank. To do this I needed to put the outer and inner clutch hubs on and the clutch nut to keep it from pushing the outer hub off of its shaft as the gears rotated to lock.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps40ca0d59.jpg

Then the primary drive was torqued up, again using the 2p. I checked that there was no damage to the teeth of the clutch and primary drive and save for a little bit of superficial copper none was found. Though I don't think I'd get that coin in a slot machine anytime soon.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5550d384.jpg

Next was the clutch outer hub, thrust washer, inner hub, lock nut, and nut. All oiled and torqued up. But no plates as I forgot to introduce them to oil in advance, so they should go in tomorrow.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1dde8967.jpg

The lock washer and nut finished in an odd place, but that shouldn't be an issue. The cylinder head studs are. I need some new dowels so that will delay me a little but of the front 4 studs, 2 were easy, 1 was tough, and 1 is a couple of threads up as I don't feel like pushing it any more. The threads are clear but there is something arguing with them. The threads are correct and they are not damaged, and they loosen up a bit if I do the in and out with them. But this last one I don't want to risk trying to tighten it more. Will have to see what it looks like once the barrel is on.

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

As always, good work fella. Looks like you're learning a ton the hard way. I guess you'll have this ready for next spring then. But in any case there a load of people looking forward to seeing the final result which will look mint. Mind you, I don't know how you can bring yourself to sell it after all of these adventures you've had lol :D

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

Who said anything about selling it!?!

And 3 more months is the target...

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

Nice work man, keep it up! :)

Re: Project: Garage Find
 

Whew! Thank goodness you're not. By the time its finished it'll be like a part of you and a top restoration.