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Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
In the continuing saga that is my SV we have the next instalment.
I've had a bit of a look about and found a few things that I have read on the subject but nothing that really nails my needs about it down. So heres my thoughts and I would love to hear some people opinion on them. Now, my clutch sometimes has trouble selecting, in that I have to fight with the select to get a gear or neutral. Now I'm using some oil from Hein Gerike which I seem to be noticing more clutch slip, but could it also be that this is causing my selection problems. I thought it was my rather stretched clutch cable and worn worm drive, but while replacing these have made a different in a lighter clutch the problem is still there. So I was thinking that I have just under a 1000 miles till my next oil change so I might just swap this out asap, or while I still have the problem I have a spare clutch basket that I could drop in (its about 30K old while this one is a 60k'er). Though this is not something I have done before so I'm not sure the tools that I will need, so will need to look this up unless someone knows off hand... Thanks. |
Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
If the clutch is lifting but still dragging it points to the clutch basket being worn. You can just see by looking in the oil filler sometimes.
It isn't the only possible fault, but considering your mileage it's quite likely. |
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Would you be surprised if I said, huh?
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Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
What Sid Squid is saying is that the clutch plates have tabs on the outer edge of the friction plates. These lock into the tabs in the clutch basket. The surface of these tabs on the clutch basket should be smooth meaning the clutch plates can slide along the basket tabs as you pull the lever in and out. This lets the plates separate and thus stop driving the rear wheel.
However, these tabs on the clutch basket get worn by the movement of the clutch friction plates putting notches in them, it is then possible for them to stick in these grooves not fully engaging / disengaging. Open the oil filler cap and you should be able to see the clutch basket and see if it's notched badly, otherwise, taking the clutch cover off, and the clutch plates out will give you a very good view. Jambo |
Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
A Picture speaks a thousand words:
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...7/Group/CLUTCH Part 1 is the clutch basket, which part 7 (the clutch friction plates) lock into. This is the part that wears. Part 3 is the hub which the steel plates (part 8 ) lock onto. Jambo |
Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
Not sure about the SV650 specifically, but most bikes I've worked on, you could usually improve a worn clutch basket by filing the wear notches out of the grooves, and also any burrs on the tangs..
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Jambo |
Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
Cool, this is now all clear, cheers. I'll be having a peek later then.
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Missed that bit... in that case swap them, but I'd be tempted to get a new lock washer on it. It's also a pretty big socket you need, 27mm or something?
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Yeah just like that one I lent my mate and the cheeky f###er emigrated!
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Well Jambo I might take you up on your offer, as I couldn't see anything when I looked.
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Right, going to pull my finger out and sort this one along with the now due oil change, so I take it I don't need and special tools to get it out as I have 27mm socket.
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A decently sized flat ended punch to flatten the lockwasher and re-lock it. 10mm socket for the springs, some oil to put on the plates as you assemble them. A spare gasket just in case. (if you have one, you won't need it)
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I take it then I should be able to do this with just takin the plastic cover off, rather then what my manual says which is drain the rad and remove the water pump cover too.
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Yup
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Lol, quick answer that one then... lol... cheers for the number too. ;-)
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Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
Popped over to Jambos last night as he rather kindly supplied a garage and use of his tools, along with assistance.
So to start we got the cover off, and then released the springs, nice and easy to get out. Removed the outer parts and the friction plates and steels, was all going fine if a little warm. We where surprised to see how loose the clutch basket nut was and it seemed the 'lock tab' was the only thing keeping it from spinning off. Once we got this out a little inspection was required and you could see the old basket was rather marked. Though so was one I was replacing it with was also marked, but not as bad. So the replacement was filled and 'wet-n-dried' to clean it up, remembering this is a temp fix so this one might wear quick now. Once it was cleaned up we put it all back together with the 'replacement basket', All seemed to go well, until I started the bike. Didn't matter what I did, the clutch dragged, the only way I could get the bike to stop pulling forward was with the brake. After a bit of messing about, we took a look at the Haynes manual, and noticed a part I didn't recall putting back in. The thrust washer, so it was all pulled apart again and presto it wasn't there. Got the old basket out of my bag, and found that that the washer magnetised itself to it, so pulled it off. All put together nice and quick and got the bike working again, clutch adjusted in correctly and with a thanks and wave I was away (oh and a pizza I ordered earlier). Rode to Aldershot this morning with just a slight adjustment on the clutch to get the biting point in right, to pick up some tyres and then to work with not problems. So I'm a happy bunny... I'll post some pics if anyone wants see the inside and wear later. Notes - Main clutch basket nut is 50 Nm, with a 27mm Socket. A replacement tab washer is a good idea as it needs to be bent back. Clutch springs 5.5 Nm (so just tighten up until they stop and leave it at that), 10mm socket. Outer cover nuts 10 Nm and 8mm socket. Now the basket has been filled it means it will probably wear quicker then before, but I have the original I can try to tidy up, or even get hold of another. So if it managed another 10,000 miles I'll be happy as it cost me nothing. |
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nice write up m8, gonna swop over my cluthes in the engine's when the new one arrives, i'd only put a brand new one in the old engine :( |
Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
[quote=Grinch;1599176]
Once it was cleaned up we put it all back together with the 'replacement basket', All seemed to go well, untill I started it. Didn't matter what I did the clutch dragged, the only way I could get the bike to stop pulling forward was with the brake. After a bit of messing about, we took a look at the Haynes manual, and noticed a part I didn't recall putting back in. The thrust washer, so pulled it all apart and presto it wasn't there. Got the old basket out of my bag, and magnatised to it was the the missing washer. quote] Been there done that. I recently rebuilt a '99 Hayabusa clutch after it had a spring bolt unwind and punch a hole in the pressure plate, sending bits of metal everywhere. Matey was too pikey to have the motor stripped and cleaned out properly, so he asked me to just drop the sump and clean out what I could find and rebuild it with a new clutch basket, slipper mech and pressure plate. I wasn't happy about doing half a job but I made it clear to him in front of enough witnesses that I wasn't going to guarantee that his engine wouldn't destroy itself just up the road. I did 3 cheapo oil/filter changes after running it up to temp each time before he picked it up. Apparently he's done 2000 miles on it since and nothing's gone bang, so I'm happy enough. |
Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
Lozzo, quick Q , after a clutch plate and spring change would you expect the oil to burn off quickly in the engine ?
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I've edited it a few more times now, just to clean it up and stuff, I'll try to add the photos tonight.
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Jambo |
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well lets just say said garage change the plates + springs as the clutch was slipping, and 6 weeks later you have a burst engine with no leaks that has run out of oil, and previously it had run for about 6 months with out an oil change and twas on at the low mark when it was changed .... does that sound a little odd ....
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Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
Did you check the oil level when it came back from the garage?
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You sure it had no leaks? Or they dropped the oil and didn't fill it up enough and you burnt off what was left.
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If the oil was on the low level when it went in, they didn't charge you for any more oil, and you ran it for 6 more weeks witout checking it, I'm not sure it's unreasonable that the engine let go. You can change the clutch without changing the oil, but they may possibly lost a little in the process which wouldn't have helped.
Jambo |
Re: Clutch 'Selection' Problems.
Ohh well, she's dead, new one on the way, i'll just have to swop over the clutches ..maybe
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