Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

I had a chance to test ride some Suzukis last Saturday, and apart from realizing how much I love SV, I also noticed that my brakes are not good at all.
So brain storm began - what to do?
I don't think I will be trying to swap brake system for something from another bike (if possible at all) so I am thinking about getting braided lines and new pads (although mines are absolutely fine - plenty of 'meat' still on them). I've got some questions then:

1. Is it a good idea to change lines and pads at the same time? Does it make anything easier/harder (never done anything on brakes apart from changing fluid)?
2. Which lines should I get?
3. Which pads should I get?
4. Should I change pads at all?
5. Is there anything else I could do?

Thanks in advance!

Re: Brakes - pads and lines
 

when was the last time the callipers were serviced, e.g. stripped, cleaned and greased?

Re: Brakes - pads and lines
 

probably - never

Re: Brakes - pads and lines
 

well that's a good place to start rather than spend money on things that are going to make no difference unless the callipers are in good state to begin with.

Re: Brakes - pads and lines
 

ok - good suggestion

I guess I just have to figure out how to do it.
Lines need to be replaced anyway (according to service schedule) so I could as well get proper ones...

Re: Brakes - pads and lines
 

don't worry to much about the rubber lines but since your draining the system then i suppose now would be a good time to put some braided on.

once you learn how to service your callipers i would suggest that you do it once a year. doing this will save you money and keep your brakes in tip top condition.

the SV brakes are more than up to the job of stopping the SV if working correctly.

Re: Brakes - pads and lines
 

As above, maintenance first, replacement parts 2nd.

I'd personally strip & rebuild the calipers, using red rubber grease on the seals, boots & sliders. I'd also clean the discs and pads up with some cloth and brake cleaner or other high flash point de-greaser. If you have any build up of dirt in the holes in the discs, take the time to clean those out before cleaning the discs. Put the pads back in the same calipers, and do not get any oil or grease on the friction surfaces.

Bleed the system through with fresh DOT 4, or 5.1 fluid (5 is different stuff entirely and not suitable for the road) depending on how flush you're feeling. I've yet to have an issue with standard DOT 4 even under track conditions so I'd say that's just fine.

At the same time, take the brake lever off, clean the pivot and the surfaces, and just put a little dab of red rubber grease / silicone grease on the surface of the master cylinder piston where the brake level nub touches it. You're rebuilding the whole lot, it'd be a shame if it felt bad because of a gummy lever :)

Jambo

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

Rebuilt mine earlier this year - had 3 seized pistons! Well worth stripping the calipers and seeing whether they're working correctly.

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

thanks Jambo, I changed fluid about two months ago, so I don't think I have to do it again.

but will definitely do some proper cleaning.

still would like to replace the lines - any suggestions there?

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

cleaning callipers involves replacing brake fluid. you have to strip the callipers down to individual parts, this includes popping the pistons out and cleaning behind the seals.

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

I did a thread on mine hardest thing is getting the crudy siezed pistons. out. Plenty of us will guide you through it.

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

Braided lines will removed any sponginess and improve the feel (assuming no air in system) and FF grade sintered pads will increase stopping power (only on front - see all the other 'what pads do I get?' threads)

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

I am not going to do anything to rear brakes as I am happy with them, there is also no sponginess at the front at all, they are just not that great.

Guess I will have to buy a bottle of DOT4 again, oh well, would have done it anyway as I will replace the lines. Still don't know what to get though :-P

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

do the back while your at it. trust me you don't want to go buying pistons. it will take a novice bast part of a day to do all 3 callipers properly but once done then its half a job the next time.

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

+1 for stripping the caliper. I recently did mine after 2 people remarked on how crap my front brake was. The pistons on 1 caliper took an age to pump out so were hardly working. Needles to say they feel great now. The bike had braised hoses when I bought it so all good there too.

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

hmm I guess I could do rear just in case as well... thanks chaps

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

Just sent you a PM about the lines! :D

Re: Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

If there's no sponginess I'd suggest new lines aren't needed.

If you do want braided lines the name on the side of them makes no real difference :)

Jambo

Re: Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

Semi-metallic brake pads like to be used hard. If you aren't using them hard, which is common when street riding with bikes like the SV which have lots of engine braking, they start to feel weak and wooden. The cure is to use them hard. They'll come right back.
I had problems with the stock calipers feeling non-linear. I'm pretty sure it was the pins that retain the brake pads. They get notches worn in them where the pads hang on them.

Re: poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

Goodridge or Hel. Two top to bottom lines and ditch the splitter. If you don't fancy doing the caliper work yourself somewhere like Powerhouse Automotive will strip, clean, repaint and titivate for about £60 per caliper.

Thanks,

Mark

Re: Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

There nothing wrong with the sliding two pot tockios as long as they are kept clean. That includes the slides (which a lot of people forget about).
The bouncy bits seem to make them appear crap!

I strip and service mine once a year and get a quick crud clear every 2k ish (the brake dust seems to be attracted to the pistons).

The rear is worth doing also as it's a right PITA to do on curvys and pointies if seized.

Pads wise either EBC gg/ road or hh will be fine for the road (I prefer road and got 12k before I wore them a fair way and got rid, but that was over 3 different sets of discs)

Between most the people that have responded to this thread we've probably rebuilt about 200 sets

sent from place where even the devil is afraid

Re: Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

I think I will take the pads out and check the calipers and pistons, and if they are working OK will do some cleaning and put them back on.

I will do proper service when weather is not so nice any more and I am not using the bike every other day, this way I can do it slowly & properly (especially that it is going to be the first time!).

Brakes are not awful - they just feel weaker than some other bikes I rode (GSX for example), so cleaning is probably a good start.
I will also change lines in a month or two, just so it is done as service schedule suggests.
Will come back with some questions though - that's guaranteed ;-)

Re: Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

I did a lot of experimentation after I bumped my '81 CB900F up to 105 hp and 68 ft/lb of rear wheel power, then greatly improved the suspension and added SV650 wheels and brake rotors. I rode it for years with groups of modern sport bikes, still do from time to time. It requires old school point and shoot techniques, since it lacks ground clearance and tends to wallow in fast turns. I removed 80 pounds from the bike, but it's still a bit over 500 pounds, and lots of hard braking with a 500 pound bike takes it's toll on the brakes.
It came with 2 piston sliding calipers. They worked OK if you kept them clean and sliding, but non-metallic pads not only went away quickly, they ate the rotors and created lots of heat. Sometimes they warped the rotors. I switched to EBC HH pads, and saw rotor life improve vastly. It quit destroying my rotors. It also stopped lots better. Adding 4 piston Nissin calipers made it better yet, but there was a much bigger difference from changing pad compounds than from the 2 piston to 4 piston conversion.

Re: Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

So I took pads out and had a look how pistons have been working and they seemed fine.
I cleaned everything, greased sliding bits and put them back together.
They seem fine, perhaps slightly better, but it might be just me.
Will try to use them a bit harder and see if it makes any difference.
I also have to check back brake in the same way.

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Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

I changed my lines for stainless hels this weekend and I can't tell any difference I am going to let them settle for a few days then take the advice found here and then rebleed them. Just need to find a you tube video on how to do it.


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Re: Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

You won't find a difference. They are the same as new rubber hoses in terms of performance if you aren't on track hammering the brakes.

Poor brakes - pads and lines?
 

I agree


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