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Project SV
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Figured I'd start a separate thread rather than continuing to spam Idle Banter.
Pics show the bike in bits, the rather interesting situation of the oil pressure sender having been replaced by a bolt, and the tope yoke once I'd (nearly) finished modding it. I'm looking to powder coat the frame/tank and swingarm, probably paint the engine and take it from an S to a naked. I imagine I'll keep the suspension stock, don't want to throw too much money at it. Thanks for looking. |
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Be interesting seeing this project progress. Good luck with it all!
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Keep us posted with progress. I was reading an old bike mag last night which had a feature about compact supercharger kits for bikes, just sayin' .... ;)
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Cheers, it'll probably end up looking something like my old one, minus the GSXR front end and ZX7 rear shock. Oh and hopefully no dent in the tank...
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Well in today's edition of what in the actual...
Decided I'm going to powdercoat the front fork lowers, so, for the first time I started stripping them. Imagine my surprise when I found a 24mm socket underneath the top nut of the right fork, and a 23mm socket under the left one. It's my first time stripping suspension so, and I can only guess, this compresses the spring more for a stiffer ride?? On top of that, I've got a 2002 bike which has the 2001 Top Nut (item 1), but each fork also had the top spacer thingy (Item 22) fitted. So it seems to be a mish mash, which doesn't surprise me considering the state of the rest of the bike. Any ideas? Thanks. |
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Preload is purely to adjust the height of the bike for different loads so for example with two hefty riders plus luggage the springs will compress a lot and the dampers will be too near the end of their travel and risk bottoming out. Using preload the springs will still be compressed as before but the dampers can be pulled up so they sit in the correct position to leave approximatelty 2/3 of down travel - this is called setting the sag :thumbsup: |
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Thanks again. |
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Never had a mudguard on the old SV so, I decided to grind off the mounting lugs pre powder coating (1 done in the pic). Might regret it later, especially if it rains but we shall see :)
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Any more progress on the project? |
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I'm pretty sure that there are supposed to be metal spacers in with washers there where the sockets are. Most folks just use plastic plumbing pipe cut down to get the ride height right. If you know s welder get the rebound holes welded up.
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Did my rebound holes (not that Ive noticed any difference) with solder. Countersunk the outside a little and then made a blob on the end of a bit of solder wire. Fed this through the hole from the inside and melted the bit sticking out to fill the hole. Worked a treat...
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As for progress, got the hole for the Oil Sensor welded up so I need to drill and tap that, then it's off to the powdercoaters :smt023 |
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Would sealing with a pop rivet work?
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Its possible but not sure about possibility of protruding head contacting something - see attached...
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keep trying to reply but apparently a moderator has to review and approve it :/
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I used a woodworkers sash clamp to compress each leg in turn,this increasing the pressure insidethebleg, allowing the bolt to undo
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I'd forgotten how much parts cost these days, just spent £80 on bearings for the swingarm and suspension knuckle thing.
Filed off all the flashing (?) on the handlebars and sent a load off to the powdercoaters, swingarm etc. |
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Well, I looked at a few threads here and as I'd knackered the dust seal and bearing race on the bottom yoke removing them, I decided to get new bearings. Supposedly its a 32005JR for the top and a 32006JRRS for the bottom. As the pictures show, the top race is rather proud and looks like I've fitted the wrong one? Everything is at the powder coaters now so I can't trial fit it to see.
The other one looks...ok? And does this mean I won't need the dust seal that normally sits under the lower bearing race? Cheers Simon |
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I'll try and see what I can on mine tomorrow Simon. I may be able to peer under the top yoke. I'll let you know when I've had a look.
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In other news the stuff is back from the powder coaters :D |
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Sorry Simon, I'd forgotten about this. Just been out for a look and as the picture shows, there is a dust seal over the top of bearing location, so I can't actually tell whether the bearing race sits proud or not unless I take the top yoke off.
https://i.imgur.com/DvSbf3p.jpg |
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No worries mate, thanks for looking! In other news, had a small disaster trying to rebuild the forks, not sure quite what went wrong but I'm now in need of a new pair of tubes! it kind of got stuck and the little plastic thingy at the bottom was wedged in and I buggered the fork in the removal process. Onwards and upwards. |
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Number 8 in the picture was basically wedged into the bottom of the stanchion, when I fitted the damper bolt, the fork refused to slide out of the bottom and extend. I put it in a vice and held it with my foot and still couldn't extend the fork. According to the manual that plastic bit (number eight) should be easy to remove and even just slide out, but they were stuck fast on both legs. There's a good chance I cocked up the assembly procedure but looking back at the manual I can't see where I went wrong. As i'm assuming the plastic bits were original, they were also quite brittle and fell to bits as I pried them out. So like a child I had a temper tantrum and now I need a new stanchion and two of the plastic bits. |
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I absolutely cannot be arsed with this anymore, I've gone through FOUR BKM2020JAU bearings trying to get them installed in the swingarm. One side slipped straight in with a threaded rod and a few sockets but the other side, jesus, took it to an engineering place and apparently the hole is wonky, ground it out with a dremmel and everytime I press the bearing in, right at the very end it tightens up and deforms :/
Sorely tempted to just chuck the lot on ebay, any takers? Rant over... |
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You know, this close to the summer I'd be tempted to just go and find a reasonable running and working SV, and put the project away till the winter!
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