Project: 500GP
 

Time for the new project.

After completing my TZR250 build I started thinking about what to do next and set about selecting a bike. In all honesty I'd been looking out for one of these bikes for some time but the only ones that were around were a little over priced. Eventually though an unregistered one came up on eBay at a slightly more reasonable price and I decided to take a gamble on it.

The original plan was to restore it to standard but with a couple of modifications like the TZR as a NOS tail unit was included in the deal but the longer I looked at it the more I wanted to do something different this time. My inspiration came in the form of "The Unrideables".

Everyone knows that the best top level bike racing was the two stroke 500 Grand Prix era and as the bike is from the 80's then this is ideal. Looking around at the results of others who have taken on a project like this there are some great bikes out there, but they all have a flaw. You see most of the GP replicas are based on a 250cc frame with a 500cc engine in, and without taking away from what is accomplished they are all starting with the wrong base machine.

So I've decided to start with what was originally marketed as the road going version of the championship winning YZR500 with a plan to take what Yamaha gave me and make it more race, more prototype, more Grand Prix...

Thus may I present the 1989 Yamaha YSR50:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps141ez3ln.jpg

And yes renting a Transit to pick it up in might have been a little on the excessive side.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Subscribed now!!!!

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Re: Project: 500GP
 

LOL! You are slightly mad, I love it. I didn't even know these things existed. Do you even fit on it?

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Yay watching with interest from now on

Re: Project: 500GP
 

My kinda thread!!!


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Re: Project: 500GP
 

Oh yeah...

Re: Project: 500GP
 

I object to the word "slightly".

Yes, but I don't plan to do any touring on it.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

I thought buying the bike was a bit of a gamble as it was unregistered. I don't believe that the YSR ever came officially to these shores and though I've nothing against imports (my NC23 was a grey) I'd never gone through the process myself.

To make matters worse the bike wasn't on the NOVA system which is a prerequisite to getting a number plate, the reason being the bike came here 10 years ago. It was imported, sold and nothing happened to it for about 8 years until it changed hands to the previous owner who intended to do something with it but 2 years later put it up on eBay and that's how it made it to me.

Thankfully I did have some paperwork including the CE389 (forerunner to the NOVA system). I sent the DVLA the CE389, a copy of the receipt, a copy of the VJMC dating certificate that came with the bike, a couple of pictures of the machine, and a covering letter explaining the situation. About 2 weeks later a letter arrived back from HMRC stating that I should only submit the CE389 with a completed NOVA application form. Luckily though they also sent me a NOVA form.

I filled in the form sent it back and two weeks later a letter arrived stating that "HMRC have reviewed your vehicle notification and are satisfied that no VAT is due". They also sent a Notification Reference Number, and the note that I can now apply to the DVLA to register it. Much relieved with no VAT to pay for the import plus it now being on the NOVA system technically means that all that would be required would be an MOT.

The thought did cross my mind, but no, this is a 500GP project...

For reference and to give it some scale here it is next to a bike that we might be familiar with:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psy81rfisk.jpg

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Holy cow, that's tiny!

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Now I get the transit being excessive [emoji23][emoji23]


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Re: Project: 500GP
 

Should make knee dragging breeze!

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Omg i didnt realise it was that small! Looks like a mini moto next to the SV hahaha so awesome


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Re: Project: 500GP
 

You should change the name of this thread to Grom II.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

The bike has been sat in the garage for nearly 12 months before I started work on it as I've been collecting parts (still have some to get), but its made it mark. Firstly the carb leaked as the float stuck and the fuel tap was on, that was an easy fix. The oil leak on the other hand, well it wasn't just oil, it was like an oil and petrol mix, but odd. I didn't really track the leak down it was coming from the engine on the left I think near the front I suspect a seal of some sort but with the lower still on I just stuck a tub under it.

Anyway time for a tour of the bike.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscsnlwkyd.jpg

The dash has a simple speedo and integrated lights on the left and a rev counter on the right. Trouble is that rev counter shouldn't be there. The YSR80 had a rev counter the 50 doesn't. The 50 engine and the 80 engine share a lot of the parts and is the same base engine. This base engine is also used in a number of other models including the RX and DT series as I understand it. And this bike had a RX50 engine fitted to it at one point. However the previous owner swapped that out back for the YSR engine that came with the bike originally. The rev counter will go.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psszzbwn8q.jpg

From a distance the bike doesn't look to bad, but the paint has faded with time. There are chips on the tank but no dents and the nut pad is missing. The foot pegs are not original and they don't match.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pssrcajmwf.jpg

The lower fairing is falling apart and that upper mount doesn't look quite right. The engine has been painted gold, but its been affected by the petrol leak. The frame has also been sprayed silver at some point, and not very well. There is overspray on bolts, the loom, and the shock so it wasn't stripped before the rattle can came out.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrw7vtwuq.jpg

Other than that there is the usual signs of wear and age. The ignition and petrol cap keys are different, and there is no kill switch on the right. The fork cap bolts have been attacked by the wrong size socket, but the brakes still work, the engine did run, and the gears were selectable.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psn9haf7vc.jpg

Time to take it apart.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

The first step of any strip down is the removal of the plastics. The rear came of easy one bolt at the front and two at the rear, this revealed the battery tray and massive 6 volt battery.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmwynwita.jpg

With the seat unit off the tank was next. This showed me the lack of an airbox but a non-standard filter. It felt a bit loose, not the best quality. Also on display was more evidence of over spray and insulating tape holding the loom to the frame on the right.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psv1sqywxf.jpg

The lower fairing didn't fight me but it did give up being a fairing, parts of it disintegrated around the mounting points. Not a huge problem as a spare lower was in the deal, but a shame none the less.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps3gwrvjy7.jpg

More bad news was found on inspection of the fuel filter. That crud implies there is a bit of rust in the tank. This may be a problem, but I'm working on an idea.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgef9ytbx.jpg

However all is not bad news as I noticed this little red box plumbed in. It feeds off of the alternator and intersects to the CDI. Its a Kitaco Rev Booster, and if I'm honest I'm not sure what it does. I suspect it itercepts a signal from the alternator and kills it off via a resistor to fool the CDI into thinking the engine is not reving as high as it is giving a bit more power. But if anyone knows different please speak up.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psqjyycqzd.jpg

But good news only proceeds bad in the shape of the left fairing lower upper mount. I'm fairly sure that is not factory welding in play.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps4wyuu0od.jpg

And finally the front fairing surprised me as the headlight is mounted directly to the fairing and not the subframe. But after unbolting it only a plug was keeping the headlight on the bike with its gold painted frame.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxywng8nn.jpg

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Now I have a naked bike in front of me I can begin to remove the engine.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszxrf4lz8.jpg

And the first step here is the exhaust. Trouble is this one has a funny nut as standard that screws it onto the head.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psjww1bzls.jpg

So out come the C-Spanners. Interestingly the only one that fitted was the Yamaha OEM part that I ended up buying for the steering bearings on the TZR. When I bought that I thought I'd never be using it on any other bike let alone not even steering bearings. I like tools.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrwrrxv8t.jpg

Onto the engine and the clutch cover. First it is the gear shift to remove.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb8erhsah.jpg

Before the cover can be unbolted and the clutch cover cable disconnected.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psx15j7kdt.jpg

The oil pump was next. Open up the cover and disconnect the cable and pipes in and out. There was oil in the tank so that was drained into a tub via my hand and workbench.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7j4q14ka.jpg

Next was the carb. Revealing the intake and the reed valves along with the boost bottle. I first encountered the boost bottle on my TZR125 (but that's for another day), no idea how it works, or why its not on the 250 so if anyone knows I'd very much like to understand.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psjpndaroe.jpg

And finally the front sprocket nut. Or to be precise the front sprocket circlip. I'm impressed that a circlip can handle all the power being put out...

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psoym4rkp5.jpg

Re: Project: 500GP
 

And I almost forgot; the oil leak, I think I have found where it is coming from. The only candidate is what appears to be a drain hole from the alternator cover.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pslfahj0i4.jpg

But this isn't an oiled cover, it should be dry behind the cover as behind the cover is just the crank cases. The only output from the crank case is the crank itself with the alternator on it. And using my experience from the TZR this is sealed into the crankshaft and separated from the engines transmission oil. I am concerned.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Nice project, got to love a gag bike!

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Another great project thread SH - your patience to log it all amazes me. The boost bottle works as follows: when the reed valve shuts the intake charge still has momentum and it travels up the tube to the boost bottle and when the reed valve opens again it travels back giving a small boost. The revs it works best at are probably dependent on the length and diameter of the tube and the volume of the bottle.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Awesome little bike loving the thread so far! [emoji106]


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Re: Project: 500GP
 

Subscribed. Interesting little thing.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Thanks for the explanation. But why doesn't my 250 have one (or two), it does have a balance pipe between the inlets on each cylinder, does that do the same job?

Re: Project: 500GP
 

On your 250, when the reed valve on one cylinder closes the other cylinders reed is open, so the intake charge travels down the tube to the cylinder with the open reed - so no need for a boost bottle. It works best at low to midrange giving a small increase in power and torque.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Awesome, thanks for that!

Re: Project: 500GP
 

One of the things I would like to do with this project is to apply some of the tricks that I have learned from the 250 build as well as working on SV's and others over the years. One of those things is to strip some of the heavy parts out of the engine while it is still in the frame as its not going to move around to much.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscexnof38.jpg

So with that in mind the first thing to remove is the alternator rotor. I locked the crank by slipping a 2p between the clutch and the primary drive once I removed the clutch cover. This enabled me to remove the nut.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspgpyxls5.jpg

However to pull the rotor off the crank I didn't know if I would have the tool as there is little information on line around for what I would need. Yambits that I used for a fair amount of parts for the 250 don't list the YSR, however I used their puller for the 250 so with that part number I searched their store and found that lots of bikes have that puller listed. Turns out Yamaha thought about these things and the puller I already had was the correct size.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psv3ghwawu.jpg

So the rotor came off very easy.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pslikbdj4y.jpg

Now moving on to the clutch side taking the pressure plate off was was easy revealing 2 friction plates, 2 plain plates, and some rubber dampers. But then I hit an issue; I couldn't remove the primary drive nut. The 2p I used to lock the crank is looking very second hand now, the ratchet couldn't move the nut, the small breaker bar couldn't move the nut, the 2' breaker bar only put the 2p through the gears, and the impact gun only worked to fire the 2p out of the engine along with the kickstart mechanism. Time for plan E.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pslbtch8f2.jpg

First, remove the head and then the barrel. This was straight forward, but one nut was rusted onto the stud. A quick check on Fowlers reveals that its no longer available from Yamaha so that will need to be looked at later. And there wasn't a base gasket on the barrel, odd.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspawqcnd7.jpg

So with the barrel off I could remove the piston allowing me to do something I wouldn't recommend as a method of locking a crank as there is a risk you can damage parts. But using two spanners to provide a flat surface and an extension bar through the small end I rotated the crank until it locked and this was enough to the take the nut off with no damage showing to the cases

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps78jlbvug.jpg

Now while doing my pre-removal check to ensure nothing unexpected is still attached to the engine I took a closer look at the crank seal on the left hand side revealing a leak. I think I've found the source of where the oil has been dripping from.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psuajkind5.jpg

Finally using my scissor lift I removed the engine from the frame.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pseaeyedoa.jpg

Re: Project: 500GP
 

With the engine out of the frame it made its way to the work bench.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps18dzorpp.jpg

Splitting the cases is a simple case of removing the screws on the left hand side and then lifting the case half off. However a point of reference don't try and lift the left side off the right. This makes perfect sense as the bolts are on the left, however all that will happen is you will spend a good 30 minutes occasionally getting a little gap between the halves only to be increasingly frustrated.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psi33uoln6.jpg

But if you read the shop manual properly eventually you flip the engine over and quickly remove the right hand side from the left.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmrz1dlrc.jpg

The gear box shafts, drum, and selector forks simply lifted out. The crank was a little more challenging and was pressed out. This is going to be rebuilt.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psujvnpngl.jpg

It would appear that the mains are going to need replacing; but then that was expected, didn't expect that cleaning up the cases would take as long as it did. WD40 and elbow grease was in abundance.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psumjps7nh.jpg

All of the bearings were pressed out of the cases and the seals pulled. Some easier then others. That was the left main seal, it came out like that so wasn't really doing much. Surprised the engine ran, but I think that explains the leak, just not how there was so much oil coming out.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psczmi7gan.jpg

The clutch cover needed to be disassembled by removing the oil pump.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskcggl91i.jpg

Which allowed me to remove the paint on the covers and cases using cellulose thinners. I then masked up the parts that I didn't want to paint and with a tin or two of aluminium engine paint had my own Banksy moment.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmwqikwq4.jpg

I baked them at 200°c for 1 hour to cure the paint.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrxpfrddp.jpg

The crank needs to be rebuilt and the barrel rebored then I can put it back together.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Great thread

Re: Project: 500GP
 

With the paint drying its time to turn my attention back to the empty frame.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8n4s2fug.jpg

Now I'll save you all of the hundreds of photos I took along the way as I stripped the frame down and just give you the highlights as it were. The more I looked at the overspray from the paint and the light surface rust on the frame the more I knew that something had to be done. I was considering painting the frame as I'd not done that before but decided that powder coating was probably going to be the easiest and more resilient option as I'd found a good company to do it with the TZR.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psilqthmvc.jpg

Before I can take the frame away I needed to sort a sticker out. Near the headstock is this little blue and white sticker, and I think its quite cool and something that I'd like to preserve on the bike. But it cant go through powercoating. Thankfully I managed to remove it with a sharp Stanley knife blade without damage. But I'm going to have to do something with it before it goes back on. That plan is in the works.

But anyway, what is the sticker I hear you ask? Well a little googling tells me its some sort of anti-theft scheme from Japan. Basically if it gets sold you can contact the scheme to ensure that its legitimate and that the owner has the right to sell it as I understand it. The best thing about it is the the numbers on the bottom have some meaning and shows that the bike was at some point and originally registered with the scheme from the Fukuoka prefecture. Awesome.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pseds0xgld.jpg

Not so awesome was the lower fairings upper mounts. That doesn't look factory to me.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psio4nhenq.jpg

And the other side was even worse. It would appear that at some point for some reason the brackets mounting tabs were removed and then replaced with this monstrosity held in with self tapping screws. If anyone has a template of the correct tab it will be much appreciated...

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Back to stripping the bike and my attention turned to the forks. When I bought the bike the previous owner said he investigated them as they only have a spring in the right fork he wanted to see if he could fit one to the left fork. He concluded that he couldn't. I can't be sure who but someone who had previously been into the forks had failed to use the correct sized socket on the top bolts as they were damaged. Not hugely but enough to annoy me, the trouble is they are no longer available from Yamaha. So the first thing is to see what the bolts are by removing them, this needed to be done anyway as I need to take the forks apart.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrevgyuyg.jpg

And this is where I hit a problem. My god were those bolts tight, not even my big breaker bar could shift them. So the rattle gun came out again. Unfortunately the previous damage to the bolt head on the right resulted in the first attempt being a failure as the socket didn't seat properly almost rounding the bolt off. Thankfully the second attempt succeeded. However on the left the smoke coming from the tube after taking the bolt out indicated a problem, the thread inside the tube and on the bolt had stripped. I have a plan for this though.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgpmjeifj.jpg

Anyway frame off.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psnse70uge.jpg

And I thought I'd use a bearing puller to take the races out of the head. Worked fine and was a little easier then the old hammer and punch.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscuzn0ybn.jpg

I did use the hammer and chisel on the lower race, first time I've done one of those. Not to bad you just have to get over the fact you're smashing a great big chisel into a yoke.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfpm2olao.jpg

So that just left the forks to strip, the left without the spring.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psnmxp24nj.jpg

And the right with.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psyemzqn9k.jpg

Now I did my investigation of why you can't have a spring in the left, its because the fork lower doesn't have a spacer for it. This spacer is welded into the leg. Why Yamaha decided only to do one is something I can't understand as I doubt that adding the other spring would have bankrupted the company.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Squirrel

You should be able to bribe stretch to weld some up

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/302086566769 found these looking for copying

Or...http://tractechmfg.com/product-category/ysr50/

Been doing the same as I'm potentially picking up a grey 400 for restoration

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Re: Project: 500GP
 

I've got those side fairing stays, but at the moment no way to attach them to the bike without those bits of ally. There should be a bracket on the frame that they attach to but mine just aren't there.

What 400 are you looking at?

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Could be worth pm'ing bibio to see if he could make something.

Thinking gsxr 400 and doing a bit of modernising to it

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Re: Project: 500GP
 

With the cases painted and all the parts needed to rebuild the engine purchased the arrival of the rebuilt crank heralded the beginning of the process.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psefw5zdbs.jpg

And the process started with a bare right hand case half and replacement main bearings sourced from Wemoto.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pssedsdhnb.jpg

Along with seals from Yamaha and gearbox bearings from Simply Bearings selected by referencing the sizes stamped on the originals that I removed.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszkquzz7h.jpg

The process was repeated on the left hand side with all bearings hydraulically pressed in. I so pleased I invested in a press makes changing bearings so much easier, thoroughly recommend one if you're getting into this type of thing.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdha28alj.jpg

And on the outer side of the case, the seals.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgwe9yntk.jpg

Piston Broke in Bristol rebuilt the crank for me. New mains and a new rod, which apparently took a couple of attempts to locate the correct one as he wanted to find me an exact replacement with the correct oil passages in it. The green bag in the picture was just stopping the rod from rolling round in transport and had the small end bearing in it from the rod kit.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psy56idgrn.jpg

Next was to use my new tool, the crank puller. As the crank is in two half parts and pressed together with a set clearance you just can't hammer it into the main bearing but rather pull it through.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgocdr6za.jpg

Basically the tool uses the thread on the alternator side to hook onto and then as you tighten the main bolt against the body the crank is drawn through. I probably haven't explained that one very well but it works. The only tough part was right at the end ensuring the crank was all the way in as it was getting tighter and then the crank was trying to spin. So holding that while using the spanner on the tool and exerting the required force while holding the crankcase would have been better to have been with an extra set of hands.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pssr4xjium.jpg

And finally the crank was installed.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

And now the modifications begin.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psef8wr5a2.jpg

I was browsing eBay shortly after I bought the bike looking for interesting bits and one of the listings that caught my eye was for a close ratio gear box. The only problem with this was that I could find no information it. The part number 2AL-17400-1S-93 sure looks like a Yamaha number but it wasn't appearing on any part lists and even the seller couldn't furnish any more details. Even google was coming up blank. The only information I found was from the YSR50 forum which cast doubt on it.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pssiczf0kw.jpg

However I'm a gambling man and negotiated with the seller, so didn't pay what was on the box as it had been sitting on their shelf for about 5 years or more. So I've either bought myself a brand new close ratio gearbox or a brand new gearbox.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxogstmca.jpg

Examination and comparison between the new and the old gear box shows that there are differences in the number of teeth on the cogs. If someone can explain what those differences are I'd be interested to know?

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmif8y4so.jpg

As well as the number of teeth there are some subtle differences in the cut of the gears and the shafts themselves. The bearings were new and supplied with kit but I used the ones that I sourced previously.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfnmhwbtt.jpg

So with that I put them into the crank case. I say put, well, lets just say I want a word with the designer of the vertical split crank case and gear box designer as that was a pain. Getting the shafts in and lined up at the same time as the selectors and drum ensuring that they are all connecting where they should took much longer than it should. A couple of close attempts just resulted in the gears locking others just ended with selector forks slipping out of their slots. But perseverance eventually brought success.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psyso5fqek.jpg

And with that and some instant gasket the two halves were joined and the bolts tightened down. Getting the right hand side on was easy and the selection of gears was checked and all appeared to be there and running. But time will tell...

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Cool update

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Well done SH, it's coming along nicely. I'm enjoying this thread.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Fascinating thread, the attention to detail makes it all worth while.

Regards

Ryan

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Now the hard part of getting the crank and gearbox in is over it should be plain sailing to get the rest of the engine together...

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmvg8diwf.jpg

Bearing holders for the gearbox are held in with the addition of threadlock, and the gear selector shaft slid through the cases.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspyxswftd.jpg

Over to the other side and the shaft is retained by a circlip. The plastic bolt at the top of the engine containing the stopper cam went on, and I also decided to install the coil plate but couldn't put the neutral switch in as I was missing its gasket. Not to worry it's easily accessible and on the outside of the engine so can be sorted later.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psq8worely.jpg

Back to the right hand side and the kickstart idle gear and kickstart assembly can go in. This is where I encountered my second problem. I could not get the spring to line up in the case. Its not easy to see from this angle but there is a recess in the case that the back of the spring clip needs to sit in and slide along as the kickstart is turned. After a lot of attempts at setting it, taking it apart and reassembling I eventually worked out what I was doing wrong. When I took the engine apart the rattle gun fired the kickstart out and when it landed it knocked the clip out of position. All I needed to do was to rotate it back round to the correct position. Simple.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdrmyt2w6.jpg

Next was the primary drive and the outer clutch hub as I would need that anyway to lock the crank to tighten the primary drive nut.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pstbpit6ml.jpg

After that it was the inner hub which is retained by a new spring washer which of course I didn't have. Remember at the beginning when I said I had all the parts needed, well that was a little overstatement. Thankfully Fowlers had the bits in stock so a trip down the M4 was on for me.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdws6tomm.jpg

While I was in Fowlers I also picked up the only other outstanding part I needed, a gasket for the neutral switch, so that went in.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psk7syiypp.jpg

The inner hub was installed with the new spring washer along with a new set of EBC CK clutch plates and damper rubbers.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psx9tjcrp4.jpg

The pressure plate then went on with a new set of OEM springs.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8sxu11rs.jpg

And finally the alternator rotor.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Impressive stuff!

I have to attempt an engine strip and rebuild one day or rather a full bike build. I've done it to a briggs and stratton mower engine but I'm not sure that counts.

Re: Project: 500GP
 

Yeah that counts, have you seen James May's The Reassembler, fascinates me that does.