Prospective SV owner questions.

[DryRob]

Hiya,
Firstly, I'm Rob, I live in Hull and have been riding a few years since passing my DAS. I'm afraid I've got an admission to make, I don't currently own an SV but I'm thinking about getting one. I'm hoping to get some advice to help me decide and as you all live with these bikes day in day out you are, in my opinion, the best people to consult. I know from reading around that the bike has a fantastic reputation, I think it's a pretty tidy looking machine and I've been on my current bike for a few years and am looking for a change.

Anyway, here we go:
What are the common, sensible mods that are usually done from stock on the latest model? (sorry, I don't know the number)
What's the typical, real world MPG and tank range?
Is there anything in particular I should look out for when buying second hand?
How much should I expect to pay for a bike that's less than 5years old, has less than 10k on the clock and is reasonably standard?

Finally,
I'm currently on a 2001 600 Fazer, has anyone on here made the same switch or ridden both? How do the two compare?

Thanks in advance,
Rob

[Tomor]

Welcome! in answer to your questions,

Anyway, here we go:
What are the common, sensible mods that are usually done from stock on the latest model? (sorry, I don't know the number) Personally, Can, Screen, and ride the thing for a bit. Then start fettling a bit more with things like suspension etc f you feel you need it
What's the typical, real world MPG and tank range?I usually got 140 miles before the light came on, and that was around 14 Litres (K4 Pointy). you do the maths
Is there anything in particular I should look out for when buying second hand? I'm no expert, but I look for as many receipts as possible, HPI the bike if you think you are going for it, look at service items (chain + sprockets, Tyres etc,) as you may be able to sue them to haggle some off if they need changing imminently. When was the bike last serviced, the usual things as with nay bike really.
How much should I expect to pay for a bike that's less than 5years old, has less than 10k on the clock and is reasonably standard?I would not spend more than 2.5K to 3k tops for a bike k7 onwards.

Hope thats of some help, and it my opinion Ride safe, and stay rubber side down, Tarmac hurts!!

[Bibio]

if you have the money and want a good SV with all the bells and whistles already done to a high standard then: http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=201715

one that is very well done and a bit cheaper: http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=201191

or you could take your chances elsewhere.

a brand new one from a showroom will set you back £4-4.5k in the right places.

problem areas of the SV (pointy):
suspension linkage bearings
rear shock
electrics
brakes
soft suspension all round
headstock bearings

k7 onwards expect 180+ miles to a tank

[DryRob]

Thanks for the responses,
I think I get the K numbering system now, is it really as simple as year made or is there more to it?

Tomor,
Why do you say that about the K7? Are the later models lower standard?

Bibio,
When you say problem areas what do you mean? Are we talking catastrophic failures, low standard or just not top spec? Do the electrics rot/fail in the rain? Is the suspension just soft?


I'll be riding all year round, is the bike/finish up to this?

[jambo]

Hi Rob,
The numbering system is pretty simple:
99 - X
00 - Y
01-09 - K1-K9
10-13 - L0-L3

I think Tomor was just mentioning that he wouldn't pay that sort of money for a much older bike, say, a K3, the finish on these bikes has been fairly consistent across their lives. Older ones and ones that have been ridden through winter look least good. If you're riding through winter on this it's worth maybe looking at a hugger, fender extenda, and a product such as ACF50 to help keep the finish as good as possible.

Bibio is, I think mainly pointing out areas that can be prone to wear or poor performance if not maintained, the younger the bike, or more importantly the better its been looked after the the less of these issues should be encountered.

Opinions on the weak spots differ my take is thus:

The bike, when new is completely adequate, nothing NEEDS to be done, you can just service it and ride it. The original Dunlop D220 tyres may not be everyone's first choice but they're not dangerous unless you're riding beyond your ability hoping the tyre will bail you out. Likewise the front suspension is sprung a little soft, which combined with the forks being a little basic in design leads to them diving a fair bit on the brakes. The heavier or more aggressive you are the more you'll appreciate putting some stiffer springs, thicker oil, emulators or a combination of the above. Again, this is not essential, the bike is not bad out of the factory, but it can be improved.

Buy the best one you can find in your budget, don't worry too much about the year, though there have been a number of changes most have been about getting through tighter emissions regs and colour changes rather than making the bike different to ride.

In terms of changing from the Fazer, the riding position will be different especially as most SVs have clip-ons rather than bars. The engine rewards using the middle of the rev range, but having ridden a thundercat I remember the old Yamaha 600 engine was fairly good there anyway rather than just being all top-end.

Grab a test ride and see what you think

Jambo

[Nobbylad]

Just to add to what Bibio said, this is my bike http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=201191, which I'm currently selling, but will keep if I haven't sold in the next few weeks.

It's had new steering head bearings and new shock linkage bearing recently and has pretty much all the bling you could ever want for an SV. The rear shock alone is around £800 new and it has a full GSXR K7 750 front end with improved springs and oil. In other words, it's pretty much as good as it's gonna get suspension wise.

Good look with whatever you get and stay shiney side up!

[Matt-EUC]

Originally Posted by Tomor

Ride safe, and stay rubber side down, Tarmac hurts!!

So do deer, don't they Tom.

[DryRob]

Well I had a test ride today, loved it. Unbelievably smooth gearbox and it's so light, looks like I'll be joining your ranks sooner rather than later.

Thanks for pointing me in the direction of some bikes on here but I'm looking for a reasonably standard bike and am goin to need a PX deal to clear space for the new arrival

[rapidgaz]

Originally Posted by DryRob

Hiya,
Firstly, I'm Rob, I live in Hull and have been riding a few years since passing my DAS. I'm afraid I've got an admission to make, I don't currently own an SV but I'm thinking about getting one. I'm hoping to get some advice to help me decide and as you all live with these bikes day in day out you are, in my opinion, the best people to consult. I know from reading around that the bike has a fantastic reputation, I think it's a pretty tidy looking machine and I've been on my current bike for a few years and am looking for a change.

Anyway, here we go:
What are the common, sensible mods that are usually done from stock on the latest model? (sorry, I don't know the number)
What's the typical, real world MPG and tank range?
Is there anything in particular I should look out for when buying second hand?
How much should I expect to pay for a bike that's less than 5years old, has less than 10k on the clock and is reasonably standard?

Finally,
I'm currently on a 2001 600 Fazer, has anyone on here made the same switch or ridden both? How do the two compare?

Thanks in advance,
Rob

Can't answer all, but fuel wise, if I take it sensible ish, on say a long journey on motorway, I can get 200 before light, and this is doing 70 -80 mph. If thrashing it round the lanes, prob 150 before the light. I have a scorpion stubby on it and its an L3 model. Engine is sweet all thru the rev range. Loving it now.

Originally Posted by DryRob

How do the two compare?

its you money,so you get what suits you.
but as i see it,the fazzer has 95hp,and the sv has 69hp,so would that be considered "1 step forward and 2 steps back "