raising 'S' handlebars?

OK, I know it has been covered before, but I couldn't find an answer to the problem that bugged me.

I want to get the handlebars higher, a bit back a bit longer. That would be 2 inch higher, 1 inch back and as wide as possible without having to cut too much screen.

Options :

1. THE EASY ONE : drill holes in the top yoke, bolt & weld aluminum risers, get handlebars through risers, end of job.. as in here : http://www.svrider.com/tips/svsbars/DCP00328.JPG (which comes from here : http://www.svrider.com/tips/svsbars.htm). The weld would offset the loss in the yoke rigidity / resistance by transfering the torsional forces through the risers themselves.

2. THE NOT-SO-EASY ONE : Get a steel plate about 10mm (0.4 inches?) thick shaped just like the upper part of the yoke with two large holes to each side so that the ends of the forks can pass through. Something like the "top plate.jpg". Machine new fork caps that not only fulfill their role as caps but also hold the plate to the top of the forks. Drill holes in the steel plate and put some bolts through (like the little holes "top plate.jpg") such that the heads of the bolts sit in a little place designed for them ("plate and bolts.jpg"). Then weld the (now steel) risers on the plate with the bolts holding them as well. The rest is idem point 1.

Obviously, I've got a few problems : point 1 is really easy to do but I don't know for sure if the material (is it cast aluminum ) is up to the task (although I strongly feel it should be, as I suppose the top of the yoke on a naked SV is made from the same material with the only difference being in shape, to accomodate the different front structure) and it's not a must.. The real question being torsional resistance.

The second solution would require a little bit more work to be done, but would surely solve all the problems of the first solution.

As a general note, the brake hoses are long enough to handle the rise, as the previous owner got braided lines and left quite a bit of extra length and the electric parts are definetly up to the extra length requirement.

I don't want to buy riser kits as I'm generally a cheap bast*rd and I really don't have the dough to dish out (400 euros is a lot of money that goes a long way towards new gear.. okay, great used gear of ebay if you must know..). So I have to go with a DIY solution here.

So, any thoughts?

if you drill the top yoke you need to brace it underneath, what i was told to do was, cut 10mm aluminium plate to the shape of the bottom of the yoke, use liquid metal to stick the plate in drill hole's and job jobed

That's not a bad idea at all.. Didn't think of it. This should rigidise well beyond what is required, as long as it has the same type of metal. If the two types dilate differently then it might be a big problem.

for more info i woud PM yorkie_chris

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Get a second hand naked top yoke, won't cost much at all and its a straight swap.

It has the holes and risers already, all you need is bars to suit you

to be honest that the better option ^

what model bike do you have ? i will have a k3 yoke that you can have (for penuts like £5+P&P) the mounts for the clock (you dont need) are slightly bent but all else is ok, might have the risers as well (£10 INC P&P with the top yoke)

I have thought about it, but decided against it. The reason is I can't find any in my country and if I were to order from abroad (UK, for instance), it would take at least 2 weeks to reach me. I've been invited on a rather lengthy trip in 2 weeks and I want to do it, so it would be too late for me.

barwel, thanks for the offer, I do appreciate it, but the above problems still apply and the delivery costs would be waay more than the actual price of the pieces... I'm like on the other side of Europe to UK

Originally Posted by andreis

I have thought about it, but decided against it. The reason is I can't find any in my country and if I were to order from abroad (UK, for instance), it would take at least 2 weeks to reach me. I've been invited on a rather lengthy trip in 2 weeks and I want to do it, so it would be too late for me.

barwel, thanks for the offer, I do appreciate it, but the above problems still apply and the delivery costs would be waay more than the actual price of the pieces... I'm like on the other side of Europe to UK

i didn't notice that lol, no problem though i would offer them but i can see the P&P would be stupid £££

Sooo... nobody fitted any handlebar risers? I've found handlebars from a kawasaki er6n and a honda hornet. Anyone had any experience with these?
Haven't found a SV650N handlebar yet...

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Andreis,
When I did my GSXR conversion I used Gilles Vario bars. You can get them for standard SV fork, the clamp is just a different size. But they are mega expensive

Before my fork conversion I had LSL raiser bars, which were much better than standard S clip ons

http://www.motorcycle-road-and-race....handlebars.php

This is a uk shop, but I'm sure they're made in Germany.

Straight swap for S clip ons, with no need for longer throttle, clutch or choke cables. You have longer brake lines already.

Still expensive though