Bike USB??

Has anyone tried doing anything like this??

http://l33tgamer.blogspot.com/2010/0...otorcycle.html

[DarrenSV650S]

Don't really see the point because I need a ciggy lighter and a usb socket. I just have a car ciggy lighter socket on the bike which I use for sat nav. Also got a plug in usb/ciggy lighter adaptor which I can plug in when I need to charge my phone

Ive wired in a 12v socket under the seat so just plug in the usb charger when I need to.

I have also added a 12v plug to my optimate too so when the bike is away, i just plug the charger straight into the 12v socket.

Much tidier

[cbay]

Originally Posted by speedplay

Ive wired in a 12v socket under the seat so just plug in the usb charger when I need to.

I have also added a 12v plug to my optimate too so when the bike is away, i just plug the charger straight into the 12v socket.

Much tidier

I've done exactly the same...

Yep, don't see the point, just install a 12v socket, then you can use the USB converter in the car as well instead of ripping it apart and wiring it permanently into your bike, and you can charge any other devices, blow up your tyres, blow your airbed on camping weekends, etc

You don't need to put it under the seat either, buy one of these type sockets http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...#ht_2985wt_905 and most faired bikes have a fairing infill panel or somewhere like that where you can mount it properly. Saves having cables running along the length of your bike, from your pillion seat to your GPS.

I've just ordered one of these to add to the secondary switched fuseboard I'm making to run my heated grips from. I'll let you know what it's like when it's fitted.

[cbay]

Originally Posted by johnnyfartpants

I've just ordered one of these to add to the secondary switched fuseboard I'm making to run my heated grips from. I'll let you know what it's like when it's fitted.

Secondary Switched Fuseboard.. Interesting...

I currently have about 3/4 things plugged to my battery and am looking at a way to wire them on another way.. Any ideas i.e. Fuseboard? Would that work?

Yeah it's quite simple, and depending on how you do it can cost as little as £20. If you know much about vehicle electrics you just need a generic 4 pin relay (12v - 30a), some decent flex, a fuse board (Distribution board), a handfull of the correct connectors, and a bit of time. I'm just waiting for a distribution board with integeral busbar (So all of the accessories connect to the new board rather than messing about with seperate earths), and then I'll connect it up. All of the wiring is more or less ready at home (just need to cut to length whilst fitting), so I'll take some photos tonight and post up. I'll also post a basic wiring diagram for others to follow if they wish.

Originally Posted by johnnyfartpants

Yeah it's quite simple, and depending on how you do it can cost as little as £20. If you know much about vehicle electrics you just need a generic 4 pin relay (12v - 30a), some decent flex, a fuse board (Distribution board), a handfull of the correct connectors, and a bit of time. I'm just waiting for a distribution board with integeral busboard (So all of the accessories connect to the new board rather than messing about with seperate earths), and then I'll connect it up. All of the wiring is more or less ready at home (just need to cut to length whilst fitting), so I'll take some photos tonight and post up. I'll also post a basic wiring diagram for others to follow if they wish.

I did this on my brother in laws VFR, and I'm doing it on my new Daytona this weekend, but as all the accessories already had thier own in-line fuses, I didn't use a fuse board, I just used a straight through 30 amp distribution block, and wired the appliances into that. Cutting off the inline fuses and wiring straight into a separate fuse board is a nice neat solution though.

That reminds me, I need to make a visit to Maplin before this weekend!

Here' the wiring diagram:



(Link if required)

Nice thing about doing it this way is you only have to splice into the trigger supply for the relay, and by using the number plate light supply as soon as you switch the ignition off it switches the relay to off so no more dead batteries.