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#1 |
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I've noticed there arent many posts about this & posts available have a lot of conflicting information so i thought i would post a list up - i will edit it if there any mistakes. Posts are welcome to update any unknowns i have listed with updated info. As you know i am in the process of a engine rebuild and this would help me and others for future use & possibly save money having to buy the 'official' tubs and tubes.
Oem prices vs. alternative also shown.
* When looking at other alternatives for threadlock check first as some manufacturers don't use the same colours/strengths combinations!
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. Last edited by muzikill; 10-02-11 at 10:30 PM. |
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#2 |
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I also found this guide posted by TSM in another thread which i thought would be handy to keep in here once it's all sorted out.
LM Grease A lithium based high melting point grease specifically designed as a wheel bearing grease. Moly Grease Molybdenum grease for use on kingpins, shackles...etc. Also used in engine re-assembly on items like main and camshaft bearings. Red Rubber Grease Special rubber compatible grease for use on hydraulic brake and clutch components where hardening or swelling must be avoided. CL Grease Soft calcium based grease for chassis lubrication and for swivels and spring shackles. Resistant to salt water spray. BNS Grease Bertone based non-melting high temperature grease for ultra severe applications such as race/rally front wheel bearings. MS3 Grease A high melting point lithium based grease for heavy duty chassis and some CV joints. Copaslip Grease Ideal for manifold studs, cylinder head bolts, spark plugs and wheel studs. Prevents corrosion
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. Last edited by muzikill; 10-02-11 at 10:18 PM. |
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#3 |
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RRG
ZX1 SG http://www.team-zx1.com/Super-Grease pretty much covers all your lube needs. if you dont do a lot of 'rubber' parts then a small tub of RRG is all you need i have a tiny pot of it and it goes a looooong way as you just need a 'smear and rub'. the ZX1SG covers just about everything that needs grease. threadlock i only use the blue by starlock. never tried the threebond so cant comment. |
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#4 |
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the 100g tubs of RRG on ebay are big enough, I used about 10g of the tube (being very liberal).
That grease sounds like lab developed version of the old duchams bearing grease
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#5 | |
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#6 |
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No, use moly oil where it's called for on reassembly. I don't trust those snake oils, especially not at that price.
Where it calls for suzuki super grease use a lithium complex grease from bearing or engineers supplier, it's dead cheap, like a quid a tube, and good for chassis bearings and such. A few tricks; Don't refit the clutch and oil pump until it's back in the bike and you're ready to almost spin it over. Starting with some cheap 10w40, lean the bike a way to the left and pour some into the oil galleries under oil pump. Don't fit spark plugs, disconnect the coil LT leads. When fully reassembled spin the motor over for a few 10-15s bursts a few minutes apart until the oil light goes out to prime the oil system. Having the plugs out massively reduces the force on big end and main bearings.
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#7 |
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the zx1sg will cover anything that needs grease. have a look on the website.
rrg for rubber stuff any 10w-40 bike specific oil for your engine. my preference is millars but thats me. i also use ZX1 micro oil and have been for yeeeeeears some say its snakeoil but i use it and it works. (dont use it if you are running in a vehicle) another couple of greases you might consider is silicon grease for the plug caps and contact grease for electrical connectors. up to you in the end what you use. |
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#8 |
Noisy Git
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£12 vs £1.50 for a tube of grease, I couldn't justify that.
If it was so good they'd be using it in industry and you'd be able to get it anywhere. Regarding threadlocks I use the loctite stuff, 242 GP threadlock is fine for 99% of stuff, 620 for putting bearings in that need locking so you need heat to get them out. But there are loads of products that fit the bill.
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Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat Last edited by yorkie_chris; 28-02-11 at 09:54 PM. |
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#9 | |
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#10 |
Noisy Git
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Yeah that's ok for most stuff. complex is better.
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