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#1 |
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Hi guys,
I have just gone to take my SV out for the first time this year but have come accross a slight problem. I decided to do a few checks as you do after a long lay up. I have since discovered that the clutch is refusing to work. I have checked the cable tension and also tried just about every adjustment on the clutch release mechanism but the wheel still refuses to rotate. I really am at a loose end with this one and could do with all/any advice you guys can give me as i cant afford a big bill! Cheers, Ash. Last edited by 650sv; 11-04-11 at 02:11 PM. |
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#2 |
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Are you capable of removing the worm drive from behind the front sprocket cover? If you havnt already then I'd suggest stripping it down for a good clean might be enough to rectify and if not then identify the more serious problems you may be having.
Give the cables a good lube too, remove the cable from the lever and jam the straw of your wd40 down and whilst giving it a good spray slip the cable in and out of its cover to ensure thats not seized up with crap over winter. Im no mechanic but thats just the sort of thing which is good practise to do, and it'll make it easier for some of the more knowlageable guys to diagnose your problem if you can rule out some of the more basic issues which arise. Pictures and Bike details may be helpful too - what year etc is your SV. Last edited by Owenski; 11-04-11 at 02:55 PM. |
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#3 |
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Sorry, its a 2000 sv650S. I have taken the worm drive off and given it some lubrication. and the cable is moving freely. One thing I did notice, is that when i was bolting it back on the worm drive would not sit flat against the mounting points because the rod was too far out, although once the two bolts were tightened up it sits flush. Could that be anything to do with it?
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#4 |
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if it's had prolonged inactivity the clutch plates may have stuck together, on the curvy you've no need to drain any oil, just put it on the side stand and remove the clutch cover, check the operation from the lever and if you see no movement take out the bolts retaining the springs, slide the plates out and gently separate them, soak each in engine oil and replace gthe springs & bolts and try it again.
Cheers Mark.
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#5 |
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Did you try it before taking the worm drive off?
If you had to tighten the bolts to get it sitting flat, you were actually pushing the clutch rod in, hence no drive!
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#6 | ||
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What could it mean though if it wont sit flat?? I did remove the clutch rod and try to put it in further..... Quote:
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#7 |
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I think you might want to get a photo of it and post it up.
When you say you lubricated the worm drive, can you clarify. As the worm drive should really be 'greased' something like a bit of WD40 won't cut it. You will also need to oil the clutch cable as if it is dry and possibly rusty it will give you a awful feel. |
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#8 |
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here is a picture showing the gap.
![]() I can also confirm that i have used proper LM grease and not WD40. Is this gap normal? |
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#9 | |
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Does it actually feel like the clutch lever is doing something, i.e. is there normal resistance as you pull it in? Can you see the pushrod moving in as you pull the clutch lever? If yes to both of these then stuck plates is quite possible. Have you tried engaging 1st, pulling the clutch lever in and pulling/pushing the bike back and forward a few times (with some vigour!) |
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#10 |
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Ok, so after removing the clutch cover and pulling in the clutch lever the basket is moving, well one of the plates are, so here is a video for you clever souls to have a look at.
![]() Does this look like the right amount of movement??? Cheers. Last edited by 650sv; 11-04-11 at 06:17 PM. |
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