Pointy electrical problem?

Hi, new member but I come here a lot to get my questions answered, this one I can't seem to find an answer to.

Forgot to add (sorry Sid) that my bike is a 2003 SV650S

So came home from work last friday and left the key in my bike somehow and drained the battery. It's a cheapo from walmart that I just put in about 6 months ago. So I try and bump start it in 2nd and 3rd (which I've had to do before no problem), but no go. So next I hook it up to my trucks battery with the vehicle off, the dash and lights and everything came on but didnt seem like enough juice to turn over and start. So I ran the truck (after reading a plethora of posts saying not to and some that said it's ok) and it started up after a few mins charging. So I put the cables away, come back and rev the bike and it died. Did this like 3 times, started, ran idle, give it some throttle it dies. So I do it once more but this time just gas it at about 5k rpm for a minute to try and charge it, let go of the throttle and it died. Still no juice in the battery.

Bring the battery to Autozone, the guy took it and trickle charged it for 24 hours. Picked it up today, and the guy basically threw the battery at me saying it charged, I asked if it tested ok and he said "It charged didnt it?"

Bring it back home, install it, nothing. So I'm thinking main fuse or something. Bought a multimeter, checked the 30a main fuses, both were ok, neither one worked though (after interchanging the one that was in there and the spare). My bike just sits there, no power to the headlights, dash etc still. So I just hook up the truck battery again to see if it will light up the dash and stuff and it does. Any suggestions what's going on here? I looked under the tank and the wires seem to be clean and good condition.

My thinking is that the battery is bad for some reason. Even tho the guy said it charged, doesn't mean its good does it? Maybe I should just go buy a voltmeter?

I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!

[rictus01]

normally a multimeter has a setting for volts, this is both VAC which is a V followed by a wavy line and VDC which is a V followed by a straightline and broken one under it (this is the setting you need to check the battery), anything less than 12v following a good charge means it's fubar'd.

I've no idea how the guy trickle charged your battery it could have been a dumb car one, which may not have done the job, but perhaps a "smart" charger may revive it (optimate type of thing) as these run through a complete cycle.

With a completely discharged battery; it's not uncommon for the bike to start on a jump, but stall soon after, perhaps if you have someone local you could borrow a known good battery just to check the bike is working OK ?

Cheers Mark.

[Shawthing]

If the battery is realy OK, it's possible you have a resistive / intermittent connection in the green ignition barrel connector ( under the tank and airbox ). Probably not as bad as this picture.
Open it up , inspect / clean the contacts and reassemble.

[muzikill]

Originally Posted by xxFMXERxx

Bring the battery to Autozone, the guy took it and trickle charged it for 24 hours. Picked it up today, and the guy basically threw the battery at me saying it charged, I asked if it tested ok and he said "It charged didnt it?". Even tho the guy said it charged, doesn't mean its good does it?

On that basis get it on a proper battery charger for a motorcycle just to be sure before you go taking things to bits. And dont go back to the shop you took it to if that's the kind of service you get.

Originally Posted by Shawthing

If the battery is realy OK, it's possible you have a resistive / intermittent connection in the green ignition barrel connector ( under the tank and airbox ). Probably not as bad as this picture.
Open it up , inspect / clean the contacts and reassemble.

The above solved my problem. I had the same symptoms exactly and it was dirt in the dreaded green connector. Search my username for my post about it as I uploaded some photos of how to get to it. Hopefully this will help

Hopefully this will help..


The wires as they come from the bottom of the ignition barrel:




Dropped forwards:




Plastic housing moved and its the green 4 way connector..






You'll have trouble seeing it as its tucked up. I used my phone camera to see for me before getting my hand in there...




I just pulled the connection open gave it a quick clean and made sure it was tightly reconnected. Not had a problem since!




Hopefully this will fix it..