Second Gen SV Electrical issue (Possible Regulator/Rectifier failure?)

Hi all,
I have a 2003 second gen SV650 used mainly for weekend fun. Recently had to use it for commuting but found the battery had no charge (hadn't been ridden for a few months). Charged up battery and bike started fine.
I noticed a slight smell of burning or hot electrics while stationary at traffic lights but thought perhaps it was another vehicle. I then noticed it again on a seperate journey.
Yesterday I couldn't start the bike again (flat battery) so bump started it to get to work but only got a few minutes down the road and the buring/hot electrical smell was stronger than before so I headed home.

My first thought was 'Regulator/Rectifier' and/or battery problems.

Reading through the many related threads on this, and other, forums there are loads of posts regarding R/R mods due to poor quality originals, however, I realised just now that nearly all of the R/R related threads are describing issues with the under seat mounted type on the first gen SV's. I have the second gen and am I right in thinking that the R/R on my bike is in front of the engine, under the tank just behind the radiator fan (right side)?

So, my questions are:

1. Am I likely to have a failed R/R on my 2nd Gen SV?
2. How can I be certain that's what the problem is? (Voltages to check on Battery? Wiring?)
3. If I do need a new R/R am I looking at having to hack the wiring to fit a MOSFET or am I safer replacing like for like (stock) on a 2nd Gen SV?
4. Am I right about the location of my R/R?

Many thanks,

Matt.

[Sid Squid]

1. Less likely than the earlier bikes it's true - but still possible.
2. Search this forum for charging test details, but essentially put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and see what the charge voltage is, at about 5000rpm with the lights on full beam it should be 14Vish, more than 14.7 is too much, if it's down at about 13V it's indicative of a weak system at the very least. Have the battery fully charged when doing the test.
3. The later bikes have far more reliable units than the early ones, but the newer technology MOSFET units are the best, and don't cost that much more than standard ones when bought S/H, typically a standard unit is £20-£40, I've bought two MOSFET ones from eBay for £50 each - in your situation I'd buy one. The wiring alterations are simple and not extensive, the connections are the same, it's just that the actual plugs don't match.
4. Yes, maybe, I can't remember - it's not under the seat like early bikes and as I recall you're right, it's next to the front cylinder.
Probably - did I mention I can't remember?

It would be well worthwhile making sure where the unpleasant smell is coming from, there are many spots on the wiring of your bike where insulation damage could cause such a problem, and could very possibly account for the electricity falling out of your bike.

Originally Posted by lawsonium

So, my questions are:

4. Am I right about the location of my R/R?

Many thanks,

Matt.

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

4. Yes, maybe, I can't remember - it's not under the seat like early bikes and as I recall you're right, it's next to the front cylinder.
Probably - did I mention I can't remember?

Yeah you're bob on, you need to lift the tank and remove the airbox then its very easy to reach/remove.

Hi Sid,
Thanks for the prompt reply.
Currently charging the battery on the Optimate. Will check voltages when it's fully charged.

Any suggestions for suitable MOSFET type R/R's and/or kits for modding the plugs?
As I am short on time, assuming it is my R/R, would I be exercising false economy (time and money) by just swapping like for like? Clearly the old ones are bad but have no idea how much better the new ones are.

Thanks again,

Matt.

Edit: Thanks Owenski for confirmation, thought I could see the outline of it behinf the frame.

[jambo]

Test electrical readings first, purchase replacement parts 2nd. Otherwise there's a chance your new unit will not solve the problem.

That said, if you buy a non-standard unit, simply cut the connectors and some wire off the old unit (assuming that's toast) and solder them to the new one. This means you leave the main loom entirely unmolested and only damage a dead reg/rec 's connector (and you weren't going to use it again anyway).

Get a multi-meter on those connections and double check what's what.

Jambo

Thanks Jambo,

Yes, I agree. I won't be buying anything until I am sure.

Just as a pre-emptive bit of research while waiting for battery to charge...

What R/R's am I looking at buying?

i.e. if Iwant a standard plug and play job, what/where do I need to get that and what price?

If I want a MOSFET replacement, what kind would be most suitable and what/where do I get that from and what price am I looking at?

Thanks again to all of you for the helpful advice.

Matt.

[MJC-DEV]

You can get original or new aftermarket or the FH0012 I think - see Eastern Beaver web site.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acata...Rectifier.html

My bike is on a 53 plate (2003) and as far as I can tell has 7 wires which are all black but with coloured stripes.
These lead to 2 seperate plugs that are square with rounded edges.
Is that the same as this one?

Cheers, Matt.

[MJC-DEV]

Yes sounds right. One connector with 3 wires thats connects to the stator and one with 4 lines that connect the + and - to the bike.

If you look at the link above, it does indeed have 7 wires.

If in doubt I would get yourself a manual.

[Sid Squid]

Your original unit has seven individual wires, but only five actual connections.
In the four pin plug there are two each of the live and neutral output in pairs. The live connections have red tracers, the neutral ones white tracers.