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#1 |
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Turned bike on one day last week and noticed i had no low beam headlights, Side lights and high beam both still work!
Dont know how long its been like it as ive only been riding in the daytime for the last few weeks. Ive done a quick search and have read about problem with the main connector (white wire?) and a few people have said it may be a dead relay! So... forum of unmeasurable knowledge... what do you think? If its the relay, where abouts is it located? what is the best way of accessing the connector? (complete front plastics off?) Thanks in advance ![]() |
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#2 |
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Check the right hand switch gear too.
Easiest one is check the fusebox
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#3 |
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Checked the fuse and its all ok!
Forgot to mention its a K4 Pointy....No headlight switch on the pointy... does the wiring still go though there? |
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#4 |
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The high beam Circuit does.
Have you got a Haynes or Cylmer manual?
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RIP Reeder 20/07/1988 - 21/03/2012. Always missed squire!!! Every year we meet old friends, gain some new ones, lose old ones and you always remember them all. “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Mahatma Gandhi |
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#5 |
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Bulbs ok dual filament?
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#6 |
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Yep... Checked with a spare ive got in the house!
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#7 |
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Had that a few weeks ago (same deal, sidelights and full beam but no low beam fuses and bulbs good), follow the wiring from the hi beam switch or from the bulbs (can't remember which way I traced it- think it was from the switch) down to the connector block below the clocks. Turn the ignition on so the low beam should light and move the connector block about - if the lights start to work you have found the problem - now you can try and fix it yourself (WD40 and maybe a new wire) if you have the gear or let a garage do it - half an hour job for them at max as you've done all of the fault finding, I'll see if I can get a picture of the specific block tomorrow (my wiring is a mess I'm on my third connector block burn out since March). And if you have a Haynes they are a godsend for troubleshooting, they have the wiring diagram as well which will show you the block I'm trying to explain. Hopefully this helps, unless it's something else!
-Edit- You can test the connector block with front plastics on, and even work on it with the plastics on, but it's pretty cramped so I would test with plastics on, and it's probably quicker to remove the plastics if you decide to work on it and put them back on rather than try and work on it in the limited space (the man at the garage managed to repair it with plastics on but he's a bit better than me)!
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#8 |
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Ok guys... Took the front plastics off to check, Block connector looks weathered but ive seen worse... tried to bypass the connector with a peice of wire and still no joy!
Ive double checked the fuse and even bought a new bulb to triple check. Took the switchgear off and gave it a quick blast with some aerosol contact cleaner (made my horn work again) but still no lights Is there a relay or any other connectors i can check? |
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#9 |
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Have you got a wiring diagram? If you have, following the circuit will be easy.
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#10 |
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When you, 'bypassed the connector'. Did you make sure the connector was still plugged in? Because the earth wire is in that which needs to be connected to complete the circuit. Either that or bypass both the low beam live (yellow i think, and its deffo in one of the corners of the block) and the earth (Black)
My low beam failed the other week, it was at this same connector, didn't look that bad, but none the less it didn't work. Replaced with some crimp connectors and it works fine now. |
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