Valve clearances on my Blade.

The Blue'Blade is due for its 16k service - now spark plugs, oil, filters (oil and air) I can do... brakes n fluid are fine... but the biggie is the valves.

Now it runs now as sweetly as it ever has (almost out of hibernation and took him for a spin down to the MOT station 30 miles away yesterday ) but as it's not only hit the recommended milage but is also 10 years old...

... they really should be given the once over - yes?

So - easy, hard or what?

[rictus01]

Easy to check, harder to sort if they are out of spec, I'd say check them then (if needed) get someone the change the ones that need it.


Cheers Mark.

Are you asking this question with a view of saving a few quid on the service?

If it is due a check, then they ought to be checked. But you know that

However, if you want to save a few quid, I have to say unless the engine has had a hard life (high revvs etc) then I doubt the valves will need adjusting at 16k (the age doesn't really have much bearing, it is the mileage, they have a tolerance on clearance, so can wear in a fair bit before it becomes naughty - and that point is likely to be far beyond 16k ).

So ... you know the best thing is to get them checked, but if you want to be a bit tight, then I'd say I wouldn't overly worry too much this time!!

Generally speaking, if the oil is changed regularly and topped up, you can almost otherwise neglect the engine servicing and a 4-stroke will keep going and going , if the cleaernces get a bit too tight it'll normally give you a few symptoms, not just pack up/burn the valves out!

If it were a say a 30k+ bike that had never had them checked, then I'd be playing it safer, but at 16k, I really can't see it being anything more than simply a 'good idea'

You can buy me battered sausage and chips with some of the money would be saving!!

Part of it is a money saving thing, but mostly it's because I've never done anything that (sounds) that technical and want to a) give it a go, b) learn something and c) have an excuse to buy some tools or gidjits if needed.

I guess the most advanced thing I've done is balanace the carbs on my MG - but even that was just looking at a little guage thingy and twiddling a couple of screws... and after 11 years of doing that, now it's simply a case of listening to them and twiddling a couple of screws. Though when I get her a new pair she'll sound different and it'll throw me right out.

I've looked through the haynes idiot guide and it doesn't look that bad - but I still worry about messing something up when it comes to anything more than screw/bolt twiddling - i.e. taking important bits off and having to put them back on correctly!
The head bearings are getting the faintest bit notchy, and I'm more confident about changing those than engine messing.

Just wondered if there were any obvious things to be careful with n stuff.

I recently had my valves checked on the Hornet. It's 4 years old and I've done 25'000 miles and spanked the **** off it at every opportunity. The valves were fine and needed no adjustment. It's a Honda!

Originally Posted by DanAbnormal

It's a Honda!

VF750?

Originally Posted by DanAbnormal

It's a Honda!

indeed

i think you would be looking at ?300 for the full 16000 mile service.

its about ?100 for the valves to be checked, which i was told by my local garage not to bother doing, as they rarely need adjusting.........

i bet someone on here would check your valve for free, i would (if i had any idea of what i was doing)

i think its a 4 spanner job, by haynes manual standards.....

In my humble opinion, I think they should be checked. As a few posters have said, its unlikely that they would be out of spec, but not impossible.

I checked the SV a bit late (17k) and luckily they were within spec - I knew if I didnt check them, I'd always be thinking - oooh shoulda done it, and any odd noises it would be crossing my mind.

For the sake of a 100 quid, when the bike is worth 3-4k? I don't think it should be skimped on....

Its in the service schedule cos the valves MIGHT need adjusting - you dont want your bike to be one of the bikes that needed doing, and not to do it...if you catch my drift...

HTH,

BB.

Originally Posted by K

Part of it is a money saving thing, but mostly it's because I've never done anything that (sounds) that technical and want to a) give it a go, b) learn something and c) have an excuse to buy some tools or gidjits if needed.

I guess the most advanced thing I've done is balanace the carbs on my MG - but even that was just looking at a little guage thingy and twiddling a couple of screws... and after 11 years of doing that, now it's simply a case of listening to them and twiddling a couple of screws. Though when I get her a new pair she'll sound different and it'll throw me right out.

I've looked through the haynes idiot guide and it doesn't look that bad - but I still worry about messing something up when it comes to anything more than screw/bolt twiddling - i.e. taking important bits off and having to put them back on correctly!
The head bearings are getting the faintest bit notchy, and I'm more confident about changing those than engine messing.

Just wondered if there were any obvious things to be careful with n stuff.

Ah, sorry, got the wrong end of the stick - you want to DIY!!

So unless you are really keen to give it a crack, do the headrace if that is notchy and leave the engine alone!!

When you are nearer 30k, then go in and check, but although they could indeed be out now, it makes sense to go in there when they might actually need doing than disturbing the rocker gaskets etc when it is highly unlikely they will need changing!!

Anyway that is what I suggest, but if you simply want to get in there, then as long as you follow the manual to get the cams in the right positions, there isn't much you can c0ck up on simply checking them, so don't worry about it!!

Physically doing the shims is a lot more intense and not one of the nicest jobs!! But as long as you check and double check what you have done at every stage, perfectly 'doable' by any bidding home mechanic!!

Oh and if it has twin webbers is it an MGB??

[rictus01]

K the only things you'll need to do the checking are access to the cam's / the ability to slowly turn the crank and feeler gauges to measure the gaps.

being faired you'll have to remove panels obviously to gain access, and then the rocker cover (cam cover), unless you're very ham-fisted you won't damage the gasket as it's a rubber one and fairly robust, then remove the plug at the end of the crankshaft exposing a large bolt head.

I'm presuming you have a manual or at least what the useable range for the gap should be ?, rotate the crank until the lobe (bit that pushes down the valve) is facing away from the valve and the valve spring is extended as far as it can be, measure the gap (if it's easier draw a diagram of the layout and note by each one the size of gap), start with the smallest gauge (bottom of the range in the manual) and try that and work up using thicker gauges until you feel a slight drag on the gauge in the gap when checking (the next size up won't go in), that's the size, make a note.

do the same for all the rest ( you'll find the cam rotation puts pairs of valves in the same position so you can do two at a time).

A word of caution, as said use a degree of care with the gasket and don't damage the mating surfaces either, also be careful not to drop anything into the engine as pathways lead to the bottom end so what ever gets dropped could require stripping the engine to remove ( perhaps a bit of clean rag lightly stuffed in the holes if you're really worried about it (but remember to remove it after ). the crank plug also has an oil seal ("O" ring type), make sure that is clean before re-fit.

once complete, re-fit the rocker cover making sure the gasket is seated properly, re-fit the crank plug and test the engine.

you shouldn't need any oil, but do check the level after you finish (obviously before testing it).

With the rocker cover removed and full access the job should take no more than 30 minute to an hour to complete and only require basic tools*, as long as you take your time and work carefully it shouldn't be a problem.

As to whether it should be done at all ? it's a check, the manufacturers are somewhat conservative on there service schedules, however checking isn't a bad thing, rather do it and not need any adjustment than not IMHO, it's your bike taking the risk is yours, I would also add here if you want a decent resale at any time, under valve check in the service history " did think it needed it" isn't normally a good sign when buying a bike .

Give it a go, it's one of the simpler engine things to do.

* feeler gauges come in two flavours imperial & metric, you'll need metric for your bike.

Cheers Mark.