oil concerns part 2.

hi...some may remember this thread http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...light=concerns

i topped up with some oil from halfords...own make part synthetic motorbike oil, 10w/40, and on the bottle says "meets the performance requirements of API SL and ACEA A3.

this was at least a few days ago i topped up, and the sv doesnt seem to be running right, is harder than normal to engage gear, and when stopped at lights / getting ready to park it will not go into neutral at all no matter how much i struggle with it untill i switch engine off and do it that way.

looking through the haynes manual it says that oil type should be API Grade SF or SG, so is the fact i put in API Grade SL causing the problem?

if this is the cause I want to do an oil and filter change on friday ready for the welsh ride out on saturday, so money no object, whats the best oil you can buy?

or is this likely to be a different cause to this problem?

thanks for any help

Dappa D

[yorkie_chris]

You've changed something, and now have a problem. It's likely the change is the cause.

Mine is currently full of motul 5100 10w40. It's good stuff, far in excess of what the SV requires.

thanks yc, will get some of that just had a look at it on google.

any tips on changing the oil and filter? any potential poblems doing it? (not done it b4)

[yorkie_chris]

Filter not wanting to come off. Attack of spazzers on drain plug.

Strap wrench for first bit... Second bit have seen what you've done before and won't be a problem, just don't go mental refitting it.

cool, thanks chris

[yorkie_chris]

Don't forget to oil the new O ring when refitting filter. Do it up as tight as you can by hand.

Crank engine without spark plugs fitted or coils connected untill oil light goes out after to prime oil system.

excuse my ignorance mate!! once done can i just pull the cover things off the plugs (are these the coils?) as ive not accessed the front one and ill need to loosen radiator/panels etc?

[yorkie_chris]

Never removed plugs before? Good time to learn how then.

Coils live under the tank, LT leads go from ignitor box to the coils... HT leads go from the coils... to the plug caps ... to the plugs.

Pull caps off, unclip a wire from each coil, remove spark plugs. When it's cranking with no oil light, then fit new plugs, refit plug caps, replace wires to coils. By the time you've done that the oil level will have settled and you can recheck it.

when i was fiddling before after rejetting i tried to remove the rear plug to take a look, used the plug tool in the sv tool box (box? leather bag thing!), but couldnt do it....didnt seem to grip right maybe id need to remove the tank to get right in there...and never tried the front one..will just follow the destructions in the haynes ..ill give it another go and see if i can get to them....

is this a problem if i cant get them out?...dont have masses of time..maybe an hour at most, and dont want to risk bike being buggered for saturday (know what im like with tinkering, easily take it apart, not so good getting back together properly)

[yorkie_chris]

OK, maybe just remove the coil connections so it won't start, then crank it over. Idea of removing plugs is to reduce load on the crank untill proper oil supply is resumed. Stopping it from firing will do the same, but not as well as eliminating compression too.