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#1 |
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Finally getting my act together and getting my SV rejetted, it's long over due.
A little bit of history, i've replaced the engine, and the carbs in two stages since i originally purchased the bike, and she now has an end can, and came to me with a K&N filter on her. It ran ok, but was running lean but it was ok, just lumpy. I've since replaced the K&N with a stock filter and it runs pretty much the same, altho the flat spot in 2nd gear from about 2K to 5K rpm is horific, and very annoying in traffic. So last weekend i went to a recommended DYNO center and arranged to have her rejetted. Step one was the purchase of a BMC RS filter, simply as they are not in production any more, and god willing i'll pick up an M4 system at some stage, this has now been delivered ![]() Step two is where im stuck ... The guys asked me to pick up the factory pro kit for the rejet, and i'm hapy enough in doing this, i've been here a good while and know the problems with the other kits you can buy, and i'd be a lot happier replacing the springs and jets etc with new parts. however im at a loss as to which of the two to buy, on the USA site we have two kits http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prods36.html CRB-S36-1.1-ti and CRB-S36-1.0 there is a price diff of about 10 dollars between those kits, but verry little detail about what you get in them, especially the jet sizes. Thats assuming i order from the usa, if i visit the UK supplier straightlineracing http://www.straightlineracing.co.uk/...tory_1071.html They list three kits, two of which contain filters, which i do not need, however stage one looks to be similar to the kits provided by the usa site. So to recap..
There isnt a three but i was going to ask, how do folks find the FP kits / jets etc... |
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#2 |
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The factory pro kit was what I had in my Sv that ran all right for about 5k after, then caused running issues. Seems the needles erode the emulsion tubes. My kit did not come with springs though, which did surprise me. Came with some nice stainless replacement screws though
![]() Also got mine from Straightline at a bike show years ago. I think they also do a kit with titanium needles, perhaps that explains the price difference. |
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#3 |
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Thats odd pete ( altho i did see in other threads that you fitted them ) i was under the impression it was the actual dynojet kit's needles the erode the emulsion tubes, maybe i have it backwards ...
i'll drop straightline an e-mail and see what they have to say. |
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#4 |
Noisy Git
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I wouldn't bother, use mikuni jets for the same effect.
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#5 |
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I suggested that to the dyno guys and they said " sure if you like, but with the full kit we can rule out any problems with the carbs, and the needles wont need to be shimmed as they have 5 notches, plus the money dosent rly bother me.
Now chris, when are you going to put that M4 system up for sale that you picked up 2 weeks ago ![]() |
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#6 |
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Sorry Drag, I may have used the generic term "Dyno-jet" when refering to the kit in earlier posts but I know YC has said that DJ needles have a filing effect too. Problem is, once the emulsion tubes are worn there isn't a way to repair or replace them apparently.
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#7 |
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cant say i've heard of the factory pro needles wearing the tubes, did you see this when you fitted them pete ?
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#8 | |
Noisy Git
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![]() Quote:
The jet-kit needles might have 5 notches, but I doubt they are 0.25mm apart ![]()
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#9 |
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lol, i should have jumped at the system when i saw it !! ohh well
![]() good point on the .25mm apart alright, but feck it im tryin to keep the economy going here dont you know !! |
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#10 |
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Its steel and titanium needles that wear the emulsion tubes, Dynojet have not used steel needles for years, but neither required on a carby
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