glysantin g30 coolant?

Anybody used this coolant for a while without problems?

I cannot find if this OAT uses 2-eha which is known to be a plasticizer and thus might just dissolve the sv's plastic waterpump impeller, eat gaskets etc.

If it doesn't contain 2-eha, G30, "alu protect" might be very well suited for the sv's all-alu cooling system.

[embee]

A quick google shows this is the VW/Audi G12 coolant base, which I've had a little experience with in some engine development work. I haven't heard of any issues with plastic/rubber parts specific to this coolant, not that I've gone hunting for any. There's plenty of plastic parts in the coolant systems of most cars now, it might well depend what the plastic is of course.

Personally I'd be happy using it in any of my engines. FWIW I use Toyota Red (premixed).

yeah the old toyota red is an IAT with no silicates, lots of phosphates. If mixed with distilled water it will give no problems and no risk of silicate fallout. Here in Belgium I cannot find it anymore, only coolant available at toyoshops is the pink llc version.

[embee]

As I understand it the phosphates are only an issue with highly mineralised water, but the Toyota Red I get is "ready to use" so it wouldn't be a problem anyway. My Toyota is 11yrs old now and the coolant is as clean as a whistle, I think I've only changed it twice (a half change since I don't like to disturb the block drain). It was a Japan built engine, I believe the Euro built units specified a green coolant, don't know any details beyond that, could be it was a lower phosphate brew?

I'm not sure what the differences were between G12 and G12+, or whether they are even particularly closely related come to that. Certainly all the bigger Audi units were using G12+ last time I was involved.

As for impellers, certain engines with pressed steel items are as likely to have them drop off as you are to have any issues with plastic ones I think!

The only other coolant I've had any real dealings with was the Texaco/Havoline XLC, that generally got the thumbs up. IIRC it too was a BASF based mix.

There seemed to be another danger with hi-phosphates/no-silics coolants, beside risk of mixing with hard water, that european coolant engineers were afraid of; cannot remember. I think under certain circumstances when the alu lost protection from another inhibitor and started oxidating a bit, alu-phosphate could be formed.
Anyways so
- the old Toyo red LongLife coolant is IAT, phosphate loaded, silic free and also appropriate for the sv without long-term damage?
- G30 might be, though still not sure about the plasticizing potential of the organic acid inthere, might depend on type of plastic in the sv's cooling circuit.

In fact, the Toyota Longlife red coolant appeared to be a HOAT already, containing benzoate as organic acid, and phosphates of course.

Found back the link why phosphates could be dangerous in coolants: http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl815h.htm

Not sure if this is the case in the red Toyo coolant config. though.

[embee]

All interesting stuff.

I'll report back in another 10 years or so, see if it's eaten the heads away

ryt, we'll be waiting for ur feedback, then finally evaluate what coolant to mount.