Idle Banter For non SV and non bike related chat (and the odd bit of humour - but if any post isn't suitable it'll get deleted real quick).![]() |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools |
![]() |
#1 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
After an on/off shoe flash for my nikon D90, wanna spend around £100 ish, is there any decent ones around for this money ?
|
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Turre, Almeria
Posts: 668
|
![]()
Spooky!
![]() Been surfing for the same thing for my D5000. Metz 48 is the cheapest I've found at £157
__________________
"It's not the years in your life, it's the life in your years." Currently - Fighting the urge... seen a nice Triumph America Previously - Honda CB125, Honda CB400-4 & BSA B40, Moto Guzzi 850, Yamaha RD250, Suzuki GT380, Kawasaki Z1B, Kawasaki Z650, Honda VFR, Triumph Street Triple R. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
I got a Jessops one for £70 last year and although I'm no expert, I think it's great. Sure, a genuine Nikon SB800/900 is going to have more power and features but they also cost 4 times as much.
Edit - it is a 360AFD, currently listed at £69 with free delivery. Last edited by Woz; 20-12-10 at 11:54 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Member
Mega Poster
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tower Hamlets but with Shutters on the windows
Posts: 1,522
|
![]()
hahahhaahhahahahahahahahahahahah for how much?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Mega Poster
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tower Hamlets but with Shutters on the windows
Posts: 1,522
|
![]()
Ok sorry that wasnt very helpful. The problem with that price range is that each one you get will have some limitation that will really bug you very quickly.
You might find though that the 360AFD might not function consistantly with the D90. (and build quality might be dodgy the plastic foot on the jessops ones look a bit unstable, and might break off with little persuasion. If you are looking for a TTL hot shoe flash then this might be the one for you.) What are you trying to get, a point and flash? or wireless (as you wont get anything for that price range if so) Nikon CLS wireless you need to go SB600 upwards... but that will cost you more then the £100 Over to the other Nikon geek............. Last edited by anna; 21-12-10 at 12:10 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
Thanks! (Do I still smell of wee?!)
Right, as Anna said, if you're only looking for a flash that will sit on your camera working TTL most of the time, the Jessops might be what you need, providing whoever manufactures it has managed to reverse engineer the Nikon iTTL thingy right. Assuming they have, then as Anna said you just need to worry about build quality (and that plastic foot doesn't really inspire any confidence... that said, it can be said that if something has to break, might as well be the cheapest bit to replace instead of the camera mount). Now, if you're going off-shoe, you have 2 options: wired (with a Nikon SC-wotsit cord) or wireless. If you're going wired, the cord will be more expensive than the Jessops flashgun ![]() - Nikon CLS - fully compatible with iTTL, it's the system everybody tries to copy and has had more people switching over from Canon to Nikon than any other single feature. Problem #1: it'll cost you more than 100£ for each light you want to add, since we're talking SB-600 and upwards. Your D90's pop-up flash will be able to control the remote flash(es) so basically you have all you need after you get the flash(es). And yes I'm using plural because you will want more than one when you start playing with them. - Wireless triggers, and here all hell breaks loose, because again you need more equipment than just the flash, and this time it might get REALLY expensive, depending on what you chose. Again, two options: - Full TTL compatible. Forget about it, as you'd need the new PocketWizards triggers, in addition to your flash. And yes, depending on the flash you chose, they'll probably be more expensive than it. - Manual flash - the world (of wireless triggers) is your oyster. You can pretty much get away with using any flash that has a manual setting (and the more power options the better - that Jessops will only go down to 1/16th power, that's way too much for some macro stuff in very close quarters), and you can get triggers as cheap as £30 off eBay (some work, some kind of do) or as expensive as the PocketWizards I mentioned before. So either way you chose, there will be pros and cons on each. There is a third way of using wireless remotes, which is using the built-in optical slave in some flashguns, but that will pretty much force you to use your master flash in manual mode (even the pop-up on the D90), as they can easily be confused by the TTL system pre-flashes and fire before the exposures. Simple, isn't it? ![]() Let us know what you are expecting to do with your flash, and we might be able to give you a more focused (no pun intended!) solution. |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Mega Poster
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Croydonia
Posts: 5,376
|
![]()
Anna & Filipe make good points. The Nikon fashes are really very good and while they're expensive compared to plenty of the 3rd party units they also come packed with a huge amount of features. The key point is to try and understand a little about flashes so you don't pay for functionality you won't use, or buy something that's cheap but doesn't do what you want.
I shoot Canon but the principles are pretty similar. The genuine canon flashes can auto & manual zoom, auto & manually adjust power, communicate white balance to the camera, assist focusing in low light, command other flashes wirelessly, allow 1st & 2nd curtain, and high-speed sync. Multi flash, exposure compensation and being weather sealed, and even able to factor distance to subject by communicating with the lens are all useful to some. Being able to use eTTL/iTTL wirelessly is wonderful too. Do you need all of that? Probably not, but to claim that a cheap flash is just as good as a genuine nikon/canon but without their markup might be a smidge hasty. The easy answer is to say go and buy a Nikon SB600, the SB700 replacement or splash for the SB800/900 and be happy it will work with everything seamlessly. I would say from using my flashes for a primary flash that sits on the body most of the time the following is essential to me:
I would be aware though when it says "wireless slave" it may be the sort that simply fires the flash at whatever power it's set. Still usefull but the genuine Nikon stuff will auto adjust the power of it's slaves as they fire. Which is pretty cool in my book! Whatever else you do, consider a wander round strobist.com and look at the lighting 101 stuff to see why everyone gets all involved with firing the flash off-camera. It might change the choice of flash, not to one that's more expensive, but to one that better suits this. Jambo
__________________
Modern motorcycles are bloody brilliant, enjoy it while we can ![]() Last edited by jambo; 21-12-10 at 01:20 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Member
Mega Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ruislip
Posts: 1,131
|
![]()
Unfortunately, as the other posters have said, the best bet is to save a bit longer and buy a Nikon SB-x00 (x=6,7,8,9). The off camera flash is worth saving for.
For example, a few weeks ago I agreed to take some photos of my friend's kids. I set up two Nikon iTTL flashes in the corners of the room aimed at the (white) ceiling and set the internal flash to -2 stops. That gave me nice diffuse lighting with natural shadows and perfect catchlights from the internal flash. It also gave me the freedom to move around at their level which is where you want to be when shooting children. Getting the same results with cables or fixed power slaves would have been much more difficult. Unfortunately, used SB-600 flashes are going on Ebay for almost the price of new ones. So, not much chance of a bargain I'm afraid. Just my thoughts, Keith |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
One of the reasons I changed to Nikon from Pentax was the CLS system. I ended up getting 2 sb600's and a used sb800 to take pics of school models and portraits of work staff.
You can get the Nikon SG-3IR panel which prevents any light from the built in flash while still allowing it to send IR signals to the wireless Nikon flashes. Works a treat and I also got Stofen diffusers for the Sb 600 flashes. My advice is listen to what others have said and buy the best you can to fully get the benefits of the brilliant CLS system. If you just want a small flash that will improve flash photography in general, you could look at the sb 400 and get a Stofen Omnibounce diffuser. You will have much softer light with less harsh shadows and you can still bounce off ceiling. All depends what you want to do really. Do you want a small compact on camera flash (can be used off camera with a lead) or a more sophisticated wireless compatible flash which offers much more creativity? Last edited by TC3; 21-12-10 at 07:56 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 | |
Member
Mega Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: In the shadows to the left
Posts: 7,700
|
![]() Quote:
If you want the remote flash control etc, then you will need a much better unit as the Jessops unit does not support this and like a **** i didnt realise that the Cannon stuff needs a second flash unit, or a wireless contrller to fire the flash unlike the Nikon Last edited by Viney; 21-12-10 at 08:45 AM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Brake lights flash when indicators flash | breakz187 | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 26 | 01-06-10 04:03 PM |
FLASH FLASH...Q for the police people | maff | Idle Banter | 16 | 04-10-08 07:03 PM |
Photography Kit | southy1978 | Idle Banter | 0 | 19-02-08 11:19 PM |
Photography | localhost | Idle Banter | 16 | 22-01-06 07:59 PM |
Traffic Light Cameras ..Flash Flash ? | Eggspit | Bikes - Talk & Issues | 28 | 23-11-05 11:02 PM |