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#1 |
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Following on from a recent thread where i am having problems right turning i thought it was time to suss this out (i dont know why i didnt do this earlier either)
For this i used 1 abba stand 6 bricks 2 x 2.4m long skirting boards from b&q i had in the hut (handy!) 1 small steel ruler setup as follows. ![]() ![]() ![]() 1st thing to do is see how much its out already, so i line up the back edges of the boards with th rear tyre walls ![]() ![]() The visually check & measure the front........... and can see its out a mile! ![]() ![]() So how did i do it, well first of all i loosened the rear axle nut & spannered the rear chain adjuster until the slack was correct (20-30mm) This way when i tighten the axle nut its as close to perfect already. ![]() Now as i loosened the axle nut i line up the back edges of the boards with the rear tyre walls again. i usually takes a few adjustment of moving the boards away and pushing the back onto the walls using some gentle taps. Ok so once ive done that the real adjustment comes into play on the other side of the swingarm adjuster. This is the one where i found moving it meant alignment / misalignment & i only used half turns/board reset on the tyre walls until i got it spot on. A good place to start from is turning it until the axle markings are at the same points on the measure guide on each side of the swingarm. ![]() ![]() So how did i measure the front? Well when your aligning the back boards against the rear tyre walls the front should look like this allowing you to measure it. ![]() ![]() It's a simple case of measuring the front wheel tyre walls at 4 points making adjustments to the rear brake caliper side adjuster. Remember to make sure the front wheel is straight! A wee wiggle usually lets it right itself or getting it to measure equally on the two points at one side does the same. If you start going awol you just wind the rear brake side adjuster back to where you started and try again. Heres how the adjusters look on the marks after getting it right. ![]() ![]() And heres the measurements ![]() These measurements are from Bridgestone 21 tyre walls, they will probably differ for different tyre makes. Using skirting board made the job a whole lot easier (they were straight) Pretty obvious where my problems were in right turns & how left turns were so much easier. When doing the rear adjuster it really took very little movement of the adjuster nut on the brake caliper side to get it spot on / way off so take your time. And when your tightening the rear axle nut it's worth rechecking when your tightening it up to make sure you dont misalign it when the axle starts gripping to the swingarm. I hope what i wrote looks clear enough! - dont trust the swingarm markings.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. Last edited by muzikill; 08-04-12 at 09:08 AM. |
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#2 |
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yes , 10 points. After that, one trued edge would be enough, it is the quickest way to do it
Last edited by peeterus; 07-04-12 at 08:19 PM. |
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#3 |
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Were both rear adjustment markers in identical places at the start?
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#4 | |
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#5 |
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Ta, having the two edges made sure the alignment was equidistant.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#6 |
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It's worth checking the wooden boards are actually straight if you're going to do this. Whenever I've bought wooden boards they usually have some slight bend in them. Nice cheap and simple method - good one. I use pieces of alloy angle and bungee cord to hold them to the wheels, then thin elastic cord running front to back and use it to measure the relative gaps much like your boards. Not as straightforward, but takes up less room to store the bits!
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#7 |
The Sick Man
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dont trust the wheel alignment marks on SV and as tim8061 said, the wood may have a bend in them, look at the string method, essentialy the same
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#8 |
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Turn the wheels part of a turn a few times and recheck - wheels aren't always straight, and tyres are often not dead true on the rim. Checking that way evens out any discrepancy due to squiffy wheels and tyres.
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#9 |
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Check. Good tip.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#10 |
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I tried the string method today but found it difficult to gauge the point where it aligns at the back wheel rim when moving it at the front. I think using something solid with a straight edge is perfect.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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