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#1 |
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We're speaking about a zero miles right out of the show room engine here and what Im really asking is has anyone: Heard of, Used, Recommended this mototune method on their bikes in the past?
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm |
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#2 |
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You got it then?
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#3 |
The Teacer
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I'm using the Sid Squid method. Infinitely cheaper
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#4 |
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#5 |
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No not yet, just curious. Its been covered on the drz forum a few times, always the same result. The track boys swear by it but the old heads say stick to the manual.. none of whom have ever used the mototune method.
Is this a genuine method or am I missing some insider joke ![]() ![]() |
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#6 |
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Discussed at length previously, try a search.
No break-in procedure in the engine industry (I mean design/develop/manufacture industry, not aftermarket builders) even vaguely resembles the Mototune method. It is always a process of gradually increasing revs and load with time, cycling between low/moderate revs and low/moderate load, gradually increasing the limits as time progresses. On a test bed a typical petrol engine break-in for development purposes would be around 10hrs after which the surfaces would be considered to have reached a satisfactory state of "compatibility" and it would take anything you wanted to throw at it. Because of variable conditions and difficulty in achieving the higher speed/load combinations on a public road, the test bed 10hrs would equate to something more like 500mls typically. The critical components are the piston rings and bores, and sliding speed is the primary consideration, more important than load. It is important to get to higher speeds and loads towards the end of the process, don't "baby" it for too long. Manufacturers do carry out sign-off tests where brand new engines are subjected to full load tests from cold ("scuff tests") to ensure that they will survive, but it's not a recommended practice if you want your engine to perform well over its lifetime. Oil consumption is likely to be highly influenced by the break-in procedure used. ......but then what would engine/component manufacturers know about it? ![]()
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"Artificial Intelligence is no match for natural stupidity" Last edited by embee; 26-07-12 at 11:52 AM. |
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#7 |
The Teacer
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Simple, be gentle but don't pussy foot around. Change the revs frequently, use all the gears, don't labour the engine and don't go too fast for a while.
Even a numpty like me can follow that (unless I've missed something critical)
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#8 | |
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I did the search showed up nothing, now shows up just this thread. I appreciate the above knowlage and you obviously know your stuff, but it doesn't really answer my question. Im not disputing the above in any way, it makes perfect sense and is how I understand the break in procedure to take place. However despite the technology and manufacturing process evolving the break in method never has hence why the mototune method makes sense to me too - that's why I wanted first hand accounts of it - to further weigh up the pro's/cons. If I just take the account of the mototune website then I'm an idiot, but as I said those who use it on the drz forum swear by it. Never heard it mentioned on here so thought I'd ask this wider audience if they've encountered it. I'll put you in the "against" column lol ![]() Last edited by Owenski; 02-01-13 at 01:09 PM. |
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#9 |
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Or as I normally say it:
Just ride it, no excesses, no labouring, don't baby it, don't hold it at a constant speed. That will cycle the ring pressure and that's what conditions in the engine's primary mating surfaces.
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#10 |
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Excellent Sid!
How is it you manage to say in 3 lines what neither manuals or website can manage in pages and pages. Now just got to figure out how to do that on the commute ![]() ![]() |
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