pointy handlebar conversion review

Hi all.

Been collecting the bits up to do a conversion on my 2003 pointy as I find it too uncomfortable with clip ons and was close to selling it. All I can say is why did I wait and deliberate for so long?! Its so much better, its like a new bike now and so much more fun. Thanks to others who have posted their experience before as I drew a lot on their guides etc. So here's what I got:

• naked model top yoke
• naked rh switchgear and throttle cables
• bandit 600 clutch cable
• bandit 1200 braided brake lines (820mm)

If like me you find the sv650 cramped and uncomfortable for commuting then this is the best upgrade you can do. Previously I have upgraded the entire suspension, with emulators in the front and gsxr shock on the rear, the change ofseat position makes the ride even better and I have so much control over the bike now.

The install was not easy but ok, a few observations:

• its worth the time spent removing the throttle bodies, rather that trying to fiddle with them on the bike
• a bandit 600 cable is just long enough, buy a vstrom clutch cable instead
• you'll need to extend the switchgear whilst which means lots of soldering
• allow a good few hours to do it

I'll post some pictures later, feel free to ask questions

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by quik_d

Hi all.

Been collecting the bits up to do a conversion on my 2003 pointy as I find it too uncomfortable with clip ons and was close to selling it. All I can say is why did I wait and deliberate for so long?! Its so much better, its like a new bike now and so much more fun. Thanks to others who have posted their experience before as I drew a lot on their guides etc. So here's what I got:

• naked model top yoke
• naked rh switchgear and throttle cables
• bandit 600 clutch cable
• bandit 1200 braided brake lines (820mm)

If like me you find the sv650 cramped and uncomfortable for commuting then this is the best upgrade you can do. Previously I have upgraded the entire suspension, with emulators in the front and gsxr shock on the rear, the change ofseat position makes the ride even better and I have so much control over the bike now.

The install was not easy but ok, a few observations:

• its worth the time spent removing the throttle bodies, rather that trying to fiddle with them on the bike
• a bandit 600 cable is just long enough, buy a vstrom clutch cable instead
• you'll need to extend the switchgear whilst which means lots of soldering
• allow a good few hours to do it

I'll post some pictures later, feel free to ask questions

part in red. no you don't if you look at my signature i dont charge a fortune for my stuff either

[Jayneflakes]

Good stuff, get your photos up soon. I too changed the bars from clip ons to a nice Renthal and love the ride.

which bars did you go for?

I'm wanting to do this, not sure if to do for ultra low or low renthals. Can't decide what to go for to give me a comfortable position.

Did the 820mm brake lines leave plenty of wiggle room?

Any problems with bars catching the body work?

Going to start getting the parts together, I read else where the naked top yoke has a different offset. Might end up drilling mine until I can afford to swap for one from topyokes.com

[Jayneflakes]

I used a naked top yoke and it fitted perfectly, however trying to find one is the difficult bit. Handling afterwards was just as sharp and the bike continues to inspire me in my riding.

Originally Posted by Jayneflakes

I used a naked top yoke and it fitted perfectly, however trying to find one is the difficult bit. Handling afterwards was just as sharp and the bike continues to inspire me in my riding.

What bars did you go for? I've yet to see a naked top yoke pop up on ebay

[Jayneflakes]

Originally Posted by punkyp

What bars did you go for? I've yet to see a naked top yoke pop up on ebay

I used Renthal MX bars with a low rise, combined with four inch risers that had an inch and a half of lay back. Fitted like this I did not need to adjust any of the body work, but getting the tank up requires removing either the bars or taking the tank off completely.

My thread that details it all can be found here, however for reasons I don't understand some of my pics are not working.

Bibio- wish I'd seen your sig before I started soldering! Never mind it's good practice.

To answer the other questions I used hein gericke low rise super bike bars which were 24quid as they had 30% off. I can recommend them, they are standard outer thickness but thick walled so vibes are low ang HG still have 30% off for the time being so snap some up.

The 820mm brake lines are perfectly fine with decent slack and no snagging on lock to lock.

I used a bandit 600 clutch cable as I had it lying around, if buying one go for a v-strom as its a lil bit longer.

I used standard n model top yoke and had no offset issues, standard risers as well. No issues hitting the fairing, the brake side just clears and clutch easily clears.

Few thousand miles on and I still love it, best couple of hundred quid I spent on a bike

And I promise to get pics up this weekend!

http://www.hein-gericke.co.uk/superb...r-schwarz.html these?