Clutch adjustment - no 3rd to top gear.

Took the bike to work after a month lay-off and noticed gear selection took a bit of effort. On leaving work I couldn't select gears 3rd-top. I checked the lever adjuster and the lock ring was loose, then the puzzlement started.

I figured the clutch wasn't disengaging so I wound the lever adjuster out (see photo - pink arrow). Couldn't select 1st and 2nd gear. I wound the adjuster all the way in (see photo - green arrow) and got all gears - just.

Today I first checked the oil - full. So I removed the sprocket cover, operated the clutch lever and (a) the cable moved freely (b) lever free-play was about 20mm (c) the release mechanism adjuster was wobbling about a bit (see photo - white arrow).

I wound the lever adjuster out two full turns and locked it, adjusted the release mechanism per the manual and played with the bottom adjuster. But, when the biting point was set to about 10mm off the handle bar I couldn't select 3rd-top gears again. Adjusting 'up' (see photo - red arrow) made matters worse, adjusting 'down' (see photo - yellow arrow) I could just select all gears but the biting point was just about on the bars.

Surely this isn't right? Can anyone help?

[Sid Squid]

Adjust it like this:

Originally Posted by Me, umpteen times.

Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.

Thanks Sid Squid for the reply. I did what you suggest as a first step, before using the adjusters. Are you suggesting I should re-do this step?

It seems odd that, to be able to select all gears, I have to shorten the length of the outer sheath so much that the gear lever has to be pulled to the bar to disengage the drive.

[Sid Squid]

If the adjuster screw in the lifter is backed out too far the lifter will need to rotated much further to lift the clutch - hence the need to pull the cable further and possibly run out of adjustment.

Still no joy. The best I could manage was ability to select all gears up the range but difficult to come back down from 6th-N. Also I couldn't elimitate a distinct clunk when going N>2nd. Even this far-from-normal slick gear selection can only be achieved within a very narrow window of cable adjustment. All of this on a stand.

I've never met anything like this and I've adjusted, replaced, dismantled the SV gear cable/selection system several times over the last few years. My initial fears, that this issue is in the clutch or gear box, is looking more likely.

Any views would be appreciated - especially if you've met this before.

[Red Herring]

Sounds more speed related? What sort of condition is the chain in? It looks OK in the photos but are the links moving freely? Once you are on the move you should be able to go all the way up and down the box without touching the clutch (going down takes a bit of practice to do smoothly) so the adjustment shouldn't make a lot of difference. Does it make any difference when the bike is warm?

Could it not be the clutch plates and not the cable ? (I am no expert though :/)

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by trail guru

Today I first checked the oil - full.

Are you sure it's only full to the max line and definitely no further beyond? Overfilling with oil will make the clutch drag like a bugger.

Originally Posted by mikerj

Are you sure it's only full to the max line and definitely no further beyond? Overfilling with oil will make the clutch drag like a bugger.

And upright and level. Not on the sidestand.

[aesmith]

Checked with bike upright, not on side stand?