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#1 |
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Can you buy these to find in standard indicator bulb sockets?
I've got a set of LED tail lights that fitted straight in, so the only issue I could see would be the actual size of the indicator bulb not allowing for a large enough cluster of LED's. The reason I ask is that I've recently fitted LED flush mounted indicators to the front of my bike, and have the obvious fast flashing issue. I know that this is caused by the LED bulbs having a different wattage from the original bulbs, and this can be fixed by compensating for the lower wattage bulbs by wiring a resistor in parallel to the new bulb. However, if the issue is just evening out the wattage difference between front and rear, then surely, rather than just faffing around with resistors, the same effect can be produced by installing the same wattage bulbs in the rear. Can anyone confirm if this is correct, and if so, whether it is indeed possible to buy LED indicator bulbs separately. Cheers, Matt. |
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#2 |
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I think some of these are appropriate, you'll have to check for definite though. Also I've never bought from them, so can't comment on the supplier nor price.
![]() http://www.3dzled.com/vehicle.html As for flash rate, I think the total load (wattage) the flasher unit sees is what determines whether the flash rate is correct. It expects to see 2x21W bulbs, if it's sees less it equates it to a failed bulb so flashes fast as a warning system. That's how I understand it anyway, could be wrong. ![]() |
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#3 | |
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I'm buying some LED indicator bulbs this week. I'll draw up the schematic for anyone wanting to do a proper conversion rather than the resistor jobby. The bad point is the flash rate will stay the same if one of the LED packs goes - which isn't likely. Andy. |
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#4 |
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Ok, so changing the bulbs won't work... but on the back of that, can anyone tell me whether the faster flash rate will damage anything in any way if not corrected?
The reason being that my LED indicators are red... which is illegal and won't pass an MOT (regardless of whether they flash at the right rate or not) - but I'm going for an all red look on the clear plastic (screen, headlight covers, parking light and indicators). Obviously the headlamp covers are only held on with those plastic velcro type strips, and I only put them on when I want to show off, but I'd like to do the same with the indicators. I've got a set of flush amber indicators from my old bike, as well as the red LED's - what I plan on doing is using the same type of velcro strips to attach the indicators to the faring, and using universal connectors on the wires - thereby creating a quick release and swap mechanism. However, as one set of indicators are bulbs, and the other LED's then I can't really put a fix on the bike in terms of changing the resistance. So does anyone know if there could be any damage done if I were to leave the LED's in place for a susbstantial period of time? |
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#5 | |
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out of interest, how does the failure system work, does it compare currents, does it give a failure if 1 or 2 bulbs fail? Cheers embee |
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#6 |
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The current discharges throught the bulbs causing the relay to flick over on which the power can then flow again. Suzuki have it wired so less current discharge causes relay to loop at faster speed; hence quick flash rate.
It's a dead easy circuit to replace. Flasher units must by law be sealed (strange directive) so Suzuki jammed it with glue, and plenty of it. On older bikes they came in small silver things with three legs. Relay switching came long before transistor switching and I'm sure there is a strange directive which says it must (for some reason) be used today. Relay switching is inefficient (using energy for solonoid) and unreliable (moving parts). |
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#7 | |
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It expects to see 2x21W bulbs, if it's sees less it equates it to a failed bulb so flashes fast as a warning system. That's how I understand it anyway, could be wrong. Yes, no? No matter. ![]() |
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#8 |
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Just you make it sound as if there is logic (transistors) involved - there isn't. :P
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#9 | |
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