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Old 21-11-05, 03:48 PM   #1
Stormspiel
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Default How D'you remove wheel bearings...

As I've mentioned before, my rims are going in to be powdercoated. Now it's only 3 weeks to the date i thought i'd best find out how to remove the bearings and whether the she'll be ok sat on paddock stands for a week. I don't think the old 'whack it with a rubber mallet' approach is favourable here .

Oh and they're not that Knacked but apparently the oven'll do them no good ( who'd have thought )

Anything else need removing except Tyres, Bearings, Discs, Sprocket carrier???
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Old 21-11-05, 03:54 PM   #2
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A bearing remover? You can get them on ebay.
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Old 21-11-05, 04:25 PM   #3
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Whacking 'em with a rubber mallet's always worked for me.
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Old 21-11-05, 06:55 PM   #4
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A drift and a big hammer, buy new ones.
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Old 22-11-05, 12:27 AM   #5
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And remember, Big Hammer best practice doesn't include whacking your hand, or your wheel For a drift, I use an old blunt chisel- perfect for the job. If the bearings are tightly fitted (as they probably should be) you might find the captive spacer seems stuck. A bit of a sideways tap (gently!) should shift it over enough to get the drift on the bearing face.

Most coaters will do this for you btw... Though they'll tend to charge. I reckon it could be woth it for the refit- for one, it means if there's any coat got through the masking they'll have to fix it before they fit them, and for another, it'd be all too easy to dunt your shiny new powdercoat when fitting the new ones. I did mine myself, but there's something to be said for getting it done for you IMO.
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Old 22-11-05, 11:25 AM   #6
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As per the two post above but...(I'm sure you this) ,

you got to still have the tyres on as you would need them to be the contact point for what ever you use to raise the wheel(on it side) off the ground.

I use a couple of 2x4 on opposite to each other and as far out to the edge as possible to raise the wheel of the ground. Again make sure they are not making contact with the wheel. Don't want to put a ding in the wheel now.

When putting the bearings back in , apparently the bearing on the opposite side to the spindle entrance should be put in first.

Cheers
Ben

ps if I've just described to you 'how to suck eggs' sorry
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Old 22-11-05, 11:53 AM   #7
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Thanks for all the info people Big rubber mallet it is then

They'll be getting new bearings and new shoes after they've been coated, I'm having the Spokes only done Ala Z750 but Rethal blue. The actual 'rim' bit will be polished cos i don't want to have to touch them up everytime i get new tyres (they take them off with a Huge flat-blade, or just cut through them where i go ).
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Old 22-11-05, 12:14 PM   #8
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I change bearings everyday ( Engineer by trade ) and would use a half pound ball pein hammer ( rather than a mallet - it tends to bounce against the drift rather than transfering energy through it ).

Just my tuppence worth - please feel free to ignore it............
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Old 22-11-05, 05:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac
I change bearings everyday ( Engineer by trade ) and would use a half pound ball pein hammer ( rather than a mallet - it tends to bounce against the drift rather than transfering energy through it ).

Just my tuppence worth - please feel free to ignore it............
Duly noted sir !!! Complete novice, i've only changed bearing's once....and thats when the rear ones disintegrated On my GasGas trials bike
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Old 22-11-05, 09:21 PM   #10
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You can do it with no tyres on... You just prop the wheel under the hub with bits of wood. if done right, there's no danger of damaging the faces, and it won't absorb the impacts like tyres will. But ben's way is much less fiddly.
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