Replacing The Clutch Plates - SV650.org

08-09-06, 04:00 AM

I'm replacing my clutch plates for the first time. It seems that I would have to drain the oil before doing this as it appears I would have to open the engine case (or whatever that is called on the right side while facing the front.) Is it best to drain the oil first?

And also... do I need to soak the plates before installing them? If so, how long and in what liquid. Just plain engine oil?

rictus01 · 08-09-06, 05:19 AM

Unfortunately you having the later model don't have the benefit of the separate removable clutch cover so will need to take off that whole side of the engine.

Although with the bike on the side stand, if you put a block under the rear wheel (careful mind, only about 3" at most; watch you don't tip the bike over) you shouldn't need to drain any oil, as it will flow to the other side.

The clutch plate friction material is such that you have no need to soak them anymore, however giving them a good covering in normal engine oil will cause them no harm.

Cheers Mark.

08-09-06, 07:24 AM

Thank you much.

rictus01 · 08-09-06, 07:45 AM

don't forget, removing that side will mean the water pump comes off with it, so you'll have to drain the system first.

Cheers Mark.

08-09-06, 08:13 AM

God that sounds like a lot of work. Much easier on a curvy. Are you sure you need to change the plates as I believe they are good for over 50,000 miles?

Also when I took the cover off of my bike I just propped it up against a wall, with the bike in gear. Totally safe that way I found.

Viney · 08-09-06, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petevtwin650

God that sounds like a lot of work. Much easier on a curvy. Are you sure you need to change the plates as I believe they are good for over 50,000 miles?

Ah, depends on how much you use the clutch, how you use the clutch etc. I changed mine recently along with the clutch basket at 46k

northwind · 08-09-06, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rictus01

Unfortunately you having the later model don't have the benefit of the separate removable clutch cover

The leaks, you mean?

08-09-06, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viney

Quote:

Originally Posted by petevtwin650

God that sounds like a lot of work. Much easier on a curvy. Are you sure you need to change the plates as I believe they are good for over 50,000 miles?

Ah, depends on how much you use the clutch, how you use the clutch etc. I changed mine recently along with the clutch basket at 46k

Ah well, there are always exception to the rule

08-09-06, 04:56 PM

The water pump? Drain the system? What is that all about? Is that tough? Lemme do a search on that. Thanks for the heads up.

Viney · 08-09-06, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petevtwin650

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viney

Quote:

Originally Posted by petevtwin650

God that sounds like a lot of work. Much easier on a curvy. Are you sure you need to change the plates as I believe they are good for over 50,000 miles?

Ah, depends on how much you use the clutch, how you use the clutch etc. I changed mine recently along with the clutch basket at 46k

Ah well, there are always exception to the rule

Take it from me, thats just normal town riding. 20 mile a day round trip, no wheelies etc, no clutching it up. Its not as tough as you would think.

08-09-06, 04:00 AM	#1
Mesomorphman Guest Posts: n/a	Replacing The Clutch Plates I'm replacing my clutch plates for the first time. It seems that I would have to drain the oil before doing this as it appears I would have to open the engine case (or whatever that is called on the right side while facing the front.) Is it best to drain the oil first? And also... do I need to soak the plates before installing them? If so, how long and in what liquid. Just plain engine oil?

08-09-06, 05:19 AM	#2
rictus01 Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: South London Posts: 9,799	Unfortunately you having the later model don't have the benefit of the separate removable clutch cover so will need to take off that whole side of the engine. Although with the bike on the side stand, if you put a block under the rear wheel (careful mind, only about 3" at most; watch you don't tip the bike over) you shouldn't need to drain any oil, as it will flow to the other side. The clutch plate friction material is such that you have no need to soak them anymore, however giving them a good covering in normal engine oil will cause them no harm. Cheers Mark. __________________ Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'Wow! What a Ride!

08-09-06, 07:45 AM	#4
rictus01 Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: South London Posts: 9,799	don't forget, removing that side will mean the water pump comes off with it, so you'll have to drain the system first. Cheers Mark. __________________ Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'Wow! What a Ride!

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08-09-06, 07:24 AM	#3
Mesomorphman Guest Posts: n/a	Thank you much.

08-09-06, 08:13 AM	#5
petevtwin650 Guest Posts: n/a	God that sounds like a lot of work. Much easier on a curvy. Are you sure you need to change the plates as I believe they are good for over 50,000 miles? Also when I took the cover off of my bike I just propped it up against a wall, with the bike in gear. Totally safe that way I found.

08-09-06, 04:56 PM	#9
Mesomorphman Guest Posts: n/a	The water pump? Drain the system? What is that all about? Is that tough? Lemme do a search on that. Thanks for the heads up.