Tips for clutch/worm drive setup

Originally Posted by madnlooney

i think i need to adjust my clutch too. It seems to be grind when going from 1st to 2nd like its not fully disengaged. from 2nd onwards is find though

Do try adjusting the clutch worm drive first. Also ensure your chain tension is correct, and the chain is properly lubed. I've found that engine oil level can affect the gear changes aswell...so check this too do you have any problems engaging neutral?

no neutral is fine. i took abit of slack off the lever this morning so need to test it again. Ive tighten the chain but seens to slacked quickly which makes me think new chain could be needed soon

I've just had a revealing couple days tweaking (fighting?) with clutch adjustment and coping with clutch drag before-and-after an oil change. I'll post up and back-reference the thread once it's live. Executive summary: topping up with a small proportion of Pennzoil API-SM (automobile) oil caused a significant drag problem - my scheduled oil change to (my usual) Motul 5100 (motorcycle) synthetic solved the problem... but I had to wait two days for the effect...

Originally Posted by doser

I've just had a revealing couple days tweaking (fighting?) with clutch adjustment and coping with clutch drag before-and-after an oil change. I'll post up and back-reference the thread once it's live. Executive summary: topping up with a small proportion of Pennzoil API-SM (automobile) oil caused a significant drag problem - my scheduled oil change to (my usual) Motul 5100 (motorcycle) synthetic solved the problem... but I had to wait two days for the effect...

Ah, you've found out something here...engine oil specified for cars is not suitable for motorcycles! Car oil has more friction-reducing compounds than motorcycle oil, hence you get more clutch slip, which causes more clutch heat, which can cause more clutch drag. Car oil only has to lubricate the car engine; motorcycle oil must lubricate the engine AND the gearbox AND the clutch.

Also, car oil may not be able to cope with the (potentially) higher engine speeds of motorcycle.

In anycase, if your bike engine oil is low, and all you can grab is car oil...its better than nothing, and clutches are easier and cheaper to change than a seized engine

You may want to flush out the new oil, in order to get ride of any remaining car oil and refill with fresh motorcycle oil again

Matt

Originally Posted by Alpinestarhero

Ah, you've found out something here...engine oil specified for cars is not suitable for motorcycles!

Dead on, Matt. And (as promised) I posted up my experiences in a separate thread:

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...72#post2176372

Learning from the mistakes of others is easier than learning from your own! Provided you DO learn, that is...

Cheers,