Photography / Camera chat thread.

Hi filipe, nah i deleted the photos as was just messing around, but i was shooting in manual and didn't want a shutter speed over half a sec so was changing the apperture to max but was not enough the flash was on auto and so that made it too bright, it;s not that you couldn't get a decent pic in those situations just that it took a while to change the settings and daughter was getting bored. Take pic too bright hold on, adjust exp or flash, and repeat, and repeat again, that's when i thought of changing the iso to manual, guess it's knowing what settings to start from in different situations that saves you time, and so will stop you missing the shot, let me guess, practise practise practise, then practise again, lol

Originally Posted by bluefishman

Hi filipe, nah i deleted the photos as was just messing around, but i was shooting in manual and didn't want a shutter speed over half a sec so was changing the apperture to max but was not enough the flash was on auto and so that made it too bright, it;s not that you couldn't get a decent pic in those situations just that it took a while to change the settings and daughter was getting bored. Take pic too bright hold on, adjust exp or flash, and repeat, and repeat again, that's when i thought of changing the iso to manual, guess it's knowing what settings to start from in different situations that saves you time, and so will stop you missing the shot, let me guess, practise practise practise, then practise again, lol

Yup, it's pretty much a practice thing!
In this particular situation, if you say your shutter speed was in the region of half a second then you were probably getting too much light in even without the flash, which only made it worse... if you're basing your exposure on flash alone you don't need a long shutter speed, so you can safely go manual with shutter at 1/200s (D90 maximum sync speed), choose your aperture and the flash will take care of the rest. It's only when you want to let in some ambient light that you need to start dragging your shutter to slower speeds, and then you will have to be careful about the possible over-exposure, possibly having to use some sort of negative flash exposure compensation (hold the flash button and rotate front command dial).

It's only when you want to let in some ambient light that you need to start dragging your shutter to slower speeds, and then you will have to be careful about the possible over-exposure, possibly having to use some sort of negative flash exposure compensation (hold the flash button and rotate front command dial).

Cheers filipe, will have to remember that.

[Messie]

I'm hoping to buy a second hand camera - see here

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...34#post2500434

Can anyone help?

[cbay]

Not sure if anyone will be intrested but I'm selling a Canon 70-200mm F4 L Lens.

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?p=2508554

[SV400Rob]

Hello. I want to take the next step from a simple point and shoot to something a bit better. I've been looking around and I'd like to spend between £150-£200. The Canon EOS 300D looks a pretty good entry camera but do they still make it? Or if they don't is there a similar camera on the market? I don't mind getting a second hand one but it's always nice to have something brand new!

Rob

'nother question for all you camera brains!- I've got a Lumix TZ10, have a mount for the bike, however, I don't want to take my hand off of the handlebar to push a button to take a mid-action pic! Is there any sort of trigger/button I can install on a handlebar instead?

To take pics like this:

Originally Posted by SV400Rob

Hello. I want to take the next step from a simple point and shoot to something a bit better. I've been looking around and I'd like to spend between £150-£200. The Canon EOS 300D looks a pretty good entry camera but do they still make it? Or if they don't is there a similar camera on the market? I don't mind getting a second hand one but it's always nice to have something brand new!

Rob

Hi,

like was said a few pages ago, for that kind of money you won't be able to get a brand new DSLR, and even 2nd hand won't be easy. The EOS300D is pretty old by DSLR standards (stopped being manufactured some 6 - 7 years ago? can't remember), and was replaced by the 350D, 400D, ..., and now the 600D, even though I believe it's spiritual successors (entry level DSLR) are the 1000D / 1100D, while the x00D series have been trying to go a bit upmarket.

As said, pretty much any entry-level DSLR available on the market today, from pretty much any brand, will give you better image quality than a point-and-shoot. Beyond that, you're mainly paying for faster operation and easier access to controls, and some more image quality (but the jump isn't as obvious or "cheap", i.e., the jump from a compact to a cheap DSLR will be much bigger than from that same cheap DSLR to a much more expensive one).

Good luck with your search!

Originally Posted by allantheboss

'nother question for all you camera brains!- I've got a Lumix TZ10, have a mount for the bike, however, I don't want to take my hand off of the handlebar to push a button to take a mid-action pic! Is there any sort of trigger/button I can install on a handlebar instead?

Hmmm I believe the Panny's TZ series can't be operated via remotes of any kind... do they come with interval timer?

Originally Posted by Filipe M.

Hmmm I believe the Panny's TZ series can't be operated via remotes of any kind... do they come with interval timer?

Nope... Filipe, you know everything ever in the entire history of everything about cameras. This is amazing

Originally Posted by allantheboss

Nope... Filipe, you know everything ever in the entire history of everything about cameras. This is amazing

Nah, not really, but I do know you're screwed now