Ground anchor installation

Can you get the bike round the back out of sight?

The wife had her moped swiped from the side/front despite having a security light, x3 chains, massive ground anchor & wall anchor.

Pretty determined kids round our way so I now have mine through two locked doors (lean to), on the back garden surrounded by a 6ft fence, in a shed, disc lock, with a ground anchor and a hardcore padlock & chain.

I'm certain that if the more hardened wanted it they would have a go but at least the opportunistic kids are put right off.

[Bri w]

If you anchor it to the house you'll feel it when the house starts moving down the drive sorry mate, I just couldn't stop myself

[hindle8907]

There is no rear lol, its a big house that's been split into two houses back to back.
I have a big almax chain and squire lock also got a disk lock alarm, so I hope it will be ok once the anchor is in. also the car will make it hard to get out too. or they will have to take down the small fence and lift it over a 2 foot wall .

I'm no expert but imo you'll have a job on lifting a block in the middle if it's been laid correctly as mentioned below, each block is compacted into place.
Assuming you can lift them, ensure they are relaid correctly & compacted (not certain just using a mallet would be sufficient/possibly hire a small wacker plate?) using the correct materials.

It might be worth considering lifting more than is needed & mixing cement into the sand bed around the anchor.

My advice would be to research it before ploughing ahead and I know there are websites that give advice on laying block paving as I'm in the process of doing mine.

I found this site helpful
http://www.pavingexpert.com/

Good luck.

[Luckypants]

Originally Posted by hindle8907

ummmm.......... got me worried now lol, Its a rented house land lord is ok with the install but i dont want to go ruining anything. and ending up with a big bill .

Which is why I gave the heads up...

Originally Posted by Fruity-ya-ya

I'm no expert but imo you'll have a job on lifting a block in the middle if it's been laid correctly as mentioned below, each block is compacted into place.

It can be done if you know how, the blocks are held in place basically by the jointing sand, not the compaction. You can lift the blocks after clearing the jointing sand, using a thin trowel or similar to lever them up. I have replaced oil stained blocks this way.

Originally Posted by Fruity-ya-ya

My advice would be to research it before ploughing ahead and I know there are websites that give advice on laying block paving as I'm in the process of doing mine.

I found this site helpful
http://www.pavingexpert.com/

Good luck.

Good advice and that website is most excellent. I have gained all my knowledge on the subject via that and a few books*. Hindle, it might be worth asking a question on the forum over there, plenty of decent advice to be had. You might have to wait a few days for a response though


*I'm not an expert or anything but have laid a couple of drives from scratch.

Firstly, dig out a fair amount, fill it with a strong mix of concrete, builders suppliers do a bag of ready to use harder mix for spot repairs etc, 3:1 mix with 20 mm ballast will be strong as feck.

If you're worried about the block pavers, mortar them back down around the anchor.

Thing with block pavers is, if you do see some sink later on, get them up add more sand, pale them back down

[keith_d]

IF you don't want to lift a lot of paving consider driving 2' lengths of rebar at 45 degrees through each side of the hole into the subsoil before you pour your concrete. There's hardly any oxygen 2' down so they'll last for decades and make it almost impossible to lift your block.

The only downside is that driving them with a club hammer is a pretty noisy process, so you won't make too many friends in the neighbourhood.

[hindle8907]

Originally Posted by specialone

Firstly, dig out a fair amount, fill it with a strong mix of concrete, builders suppliers do a bag of ready to use harder mix for spot repairs etc, 3:1 mix with 20 mm ballast will be strong as feck.

If you're worried about the block pavers, mortar them back down around the anchor.

Thing with block pavers is, if you do see some sink later on, get them up add more sand, pale them back down

cheers for the info.

Originally Posted by keith_d

IF you don't want to lift a lot of paving consider driving 2' lengths of rebar at 45 degrees through each side of the hole into the subsoil before you pour your concrete. There's hardly any oxygen 2' down so they'll last for decades and make it almost impossible to lift your block.

The only downside is that driving them with a club hammer is a pretty noisy process, so you won't make too many friends in the neighbourhood.

Will have a look into it thanks, LOL I dont think I can pee them off much more than I already do, starting my bike at 7am every morning with a stubby can that needs repacking.

[yorkie_chris]

1 bag of 20mm pea gravel, 1 bag river sand, 2 decent shovels of cement. Ish. Be right.
That works using extra rapid cement but it's not the cheapest. Not sure whether you'd use more or less cement with normal cement.


When fitting a Y anchor type thing then try get some lengths of rebar rod and bash them into the ground around it.