Cam swap on a curvey?

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Are the casings the same size? ifso could you drop the pointy engine into curvy frame and keep the curvys ignition and carbs?

yes.you just need curvy rotor/stator/intake boots.
other way around is to much work to have FI.on top of mentioned your exhaust might not clear oil cooler,you need electric fuel pump,whole wire harness with ECU........not worth it.

Originally Posted by Jester666

What sort of increases are you going to be looking at with the cam swap?

Did a curvy the other week, it started with a race can and filter that had been previously setup, just swapping the cams for injected ones (no messing with inlets in exhaust etc) it made 6hp.

I spent ages messing with cams on the race bike and found the Injected cams (fitted as intended) helped the bike rev, the power tailed off earlier with the inlet/exhaust swap, there was a bit of an increase 6-8 with the inlets in the exhaust, but the differences were marginal.

As for injecting a carby it is alot of hassle, I injected my carby to 'minitwin' regs using the 'parts from a newer model of the same type may be fitted' from simple things like the carby tank wont fit and the injected one requires a different subframe and the secondary butterfly motor fouls on the frame crossmember etc.
But to fit an injected motor with carbs you need to change to carby bits:-
Generator+rotor
rocker covers (or at least blank off clean air)
Thermostat housing
Gear position indicator
Inlet rubbers

As mentioned before its not really worth the hassle, unless your motor's popped then a lower mileage injected motor is easy to find.

Originally Posted by northwind

Aye, you want the K3 intakes on the intake side, and then you move your curvy intake cams to the exhaust side (the markings don't work but otherwise they're find)............

How do you get the timing right if the markings don't work??

Don't want to mess up my brother engine.

[northwind]

I just did it by eyeballing the lobes and working from there- I can't remember the exact rules of thumb I used, I think the tooth that corresponds to the cam lobe was 16 rivets on the camchain from the intake lobe, or somesuch. It's really just common sense when you get into it, there's half a dozen ways you could do it. Some people scribe on new marks.

Oh, and I painted "IGNORE EX CAM TIMING MARKS" on the rear cam cover, just in case anyone else ever works on it for some reason

Sounds like a viable option then. Didn't realise the bits could be had so cheap from new!!

Gotta say timing is a bit of a worry, as you mentioned it's easy to make a balls of this. One to get my dad involved in I reckon, dads are ace.

Originally Posted by northwind

Some people scribe on new marks.

Have saved that picture cheers to review alongside manual and engine, still looks a bit greek at the minute

[northwind]

It makes more sense once you see it, I was really intimidated by it from the instructions, pages and pages on SV Rider. If I was doing it again, my own instructions would be along the lines of "Take out old cams. Put new cams in, pointing in same directions. Do not get this wrong", but maybe that's not good advice

After you have put them in, try to rotate the crack to check if the valves don't hit the piston! This wil save you a lot of money if you've put them wrong...

I've noticed that I misplaced the front exhaust cam on my previous SV, but there was nothing wrong, luckily. Only one tooth rotated too much to the wrong side. This is maybee the reason I have 2bhp more (apart that my current SV has 1/3km's).

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by northwind

Take out old cams. Put new cams in, pointing in same directions. Do not get this wrong",

Seems right enough to me