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#11 |
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In the winter, i rinse my bike down every night with a hosepipe, firing the salt away from the nooks and crannies of the bike engine/frame, sometimes i get a little wet from the backfire wash, but i just leave my bike gear on. It only needs a rinse down, with COLD water. Warm/hot water reacts with salt and makes the corrosion process happen MUCH faster.
I then wash my bike in luke warm water at the weekend, after another good rinsing in cold water. I also use some Marine sealent to protect the engine, probably similar to the stuff mentioned above. The front of my engine, now at 21k (IL4), it still fine. Yes some bolts have furred, but not bothered about the tops. As long as the threads underneath are greased up correctly, they will all come out easy. As i've found when taking my brakes/pistons apart last night. Greasing them up before made making the brake pin removal a doddle (pistons were so dirty its untrue, but all removal parts were easy). Oh, and your chain. Vital, keep it clean (i've got a huge brush), and lubed. Now mines just had its mid winter tidy up (bolts checked etc), i'll be fine until it gets its summer clean. But un-fortunatly with Suzukis, the parts are budget parts, and will corrode easily on the outside. |
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#12 |
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Thanks for all your advice guys, i've got a spare can of wd-40 so i'll give it a proper clean down today and give it a jolly good spray. is wd-40 effective? and where are the most important parts i should be spraying?
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#13 |
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I used a jet wash on my SV once, never again will I jet wash a bike.
WD40 isnt great but its better than nothing. You want to spray it on the metal bits apart from and this is important, dont get it on the brake disks or on the pads, I find it easier to spray it onto a cloth and then wipe the cloth over the bits I want the WD40 on rather than just spraying it over the bike. You'd be better off with Scottoiler FS365 http://www.scotoiler.com/pc/Lubes,_C...-_1_Litre.html Or as the others have said ACF-50 http://www.acf-50.co.uk/ Most bike dealers stock the FS365, but I'd get ACF-50 if you can as it wont wash off like the FS365 does.
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#14 |
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Gear linkage, rear brake pedal assembly.
Get the brakes off, pads out, and give those pistons and calipers a clean. Pistons don't need to come out, but push them out a little n wet n dry them, along with some brake cleaner. And remember to grease (copper) EVERY bolt that you remove. Being that Suzuki use pikey metal thats soft, the bolts can easily become "locked" into position and will cause you serious ballache in the future. On on 21k in about 2.5 years. Given my previous trip to work, if I was still there, i'd be on over 30k by now ![]() Taking care of the bike during winter will pay dividends in the future if you intend to keep the bike. Oh, i've also never jetwashed it. Suzuki engine paint isn't good enough, it'll peel the bugger off ![]() |
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#15 |
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Use ACF-50 aftyer you have cleaned you bike off the old fashioned way, one application will last over a year and will remain on after riding in all weathers unlike its rival products.
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#16 |
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#17 |
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That way if for some unfathomable reason you wish to wash your bike when there is somewhat less salt on the roads, the finish underneath will be far better than otherwise.
The difference is, I do not wash it at that time of year when the rain is warmer either.
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#18 |
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Put the ACF-50 on the bike when the engine is warm. It creeps better into the gaps and crannies. Don't worry about the smoke the first time you ride after slopping it in, it's fine and car drivers think you are on fire!
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#19 |
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And it smells lovely
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#20 |
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Is it that good that you put it on once a year and forget it?
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