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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Newcastle
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mmm, ok - that makes the assumption I've ever checked my valve clearances
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#12 |
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Yes but it is harder than just taking valve cover off
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#13 |
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this is beginning to sound more than what I can do tbh. Is it worth starting this if I will probably get it wrong?
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#14 |
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trust me it is not bad to do. Extra part is just for safety, actual job is same.
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#15 |
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ok so, what do I need to do then YC, apart from what I have listed above?
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#16 |
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Before you attack tensioner;
unbolt horn move rad forward take valve cover off [what you did in post #4] Then you need to look at cams, they should be pointing away from each other like this \ / it is pretty obvious, you can see the lobes of the cams (pointy parts) .... they should be pointing outwards away from the valves. If they look different and valve is open then rotate the engine another 360 degrees [like in post #4] (crank is geared 1:2 with cams so this will turn cams 180degs)
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Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat Last edited by yorkie_chris; 28-12-09 at 11:33 AM. |
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#17 |
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ok, well in for a penny, etc etc
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#18 |
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ok - carbs are off, the o-rings for the choke plungers are knackered though, is there anywhere on the high street that sells generic o-rings? (about 1 cm internal Diameter, 1.2 external)
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#19 |
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Motor factors, engineering supply. That sort of place
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#20 |
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Right, the CCT is out and it appears to be fine, as it works the same as the others I have, screws in ok and springs out ok???? So shall I just put it back in again?
this is what it looks like down the hole,there's this mark and then a sort of a lip and a mark in the metal below that - look normal to you? ![]() |
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