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#11 |
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another looms 35 quid against paying more for someone to remove it!
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#12 |
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I gather you haven't a friendly electrical type then, who can give you a hand for a cuppa and a packet of biscuits!
35 quid down the drain if it ain't the alarm.
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Suzy, yellow 2001 SVS. Kitty, V-Raptor 1000, ZZR1400<<its my bike now Pegasus! Hovis 13.8.75-3.10.09 Reeder 20.7.88-21.3.12 |
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#13 | |
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Best of luck I am afraid I amt oo far away to help in person, sorry, Dave |
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#14 |
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Well the puzzle continues
K3 suzuki manual electrical system page 8-23 fault finding sequence 1- check ignition system couplers for poor connections is there connection? YES- go to step2 2. Measure the battery voltage between input lead wire o/g and b/w at the ecm with the ignition switch in the 'on' position. Is the voltage ok? NO. it may be . Faulty ignition switch .Faulty turn signal/side stand switch relay (nope checked out ok!) .Faulty engine stop switch (well when it is off the engine wont turn!) . Broken wire harness or poor connection of relate circuit couplers (could be immobiliser!) What did i find? ![]() Well when i continuity test the isolated ignition barrel at the connector ![]() 'P' checks out fine 'Lock' check out fine 'Off' checks out 'On' is shorting, i get varying readings from full continuity to continuity with some resistance! - red-brown shorts out etc... looks like the barrel knackered!, i think since its been sitting in the hut it seems the moistures got in and crossed it inside. Weird thing is when i turn it on with the battery connected everything works apart from the bike doesnt fire up! The lights, indicators, starter, display, starter motor - all work fine! Can this be right before i go get another one? (plus im considering putting a alarm free loom in just to be sure before i consider its a ECM fault!
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. Last edited by muzikill; 22-05-11 at 06:26 PM. |
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#15 |
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What type of alarm have you got fitted. I had a datatool 3 and it was simple enough to remove.
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#16 |
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The red and the orange leads of the ignition switch should short out with the key switched on. This puts the battery voltage being fed in on the red, out on the orange. Following the orange wire, it goes to the feed of the three fuses in the fuse box. the orange/yellow wire from the fuses goes to side stand relay then comes out of the relay as orange/black. this goes to the kill switch the other side of the kill switch goes to two place, the start switch and then feeds the ignition coils an then off to the alarm connector as i previously mentioned. if the strap is in the alarm connector the voltage will appear on the orange/green wire to the ECU which you say has not got a voltage on it.
If the bike turns over then the voltage is present on the ignition switch "on" position, the same battery that feeds the starter switch via the kill switch, this same orange/white wire goes to the terminals on the alarm switch which has a loop to the orange/green. If it really is the voltage that is missing, since the bike turns over it has to be the connection from the orange/white wire to the orange/green wire via the alarm terminal as per my previous post. It is not unusual not to read a dead short on the ignition switch with a digital volt meter, try a higher ohms scale it will gt rid of the erratic nature of the meter. You say you did not have a voltage between the orange green and the black/white. Did you check the voltage between the orange/green and a good earth (which is what the black white should be) you may be chasing fairies and it might be the earth that is missing. regards Dave Last edited by warmshed; 22-05-11 at 07:00 PM. |
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#17 |
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Bud, can't really help you as I'm no good with elctrics hehe but just reading your post again and a few of the other post, thought I'd dig out a thread of mine.
Link >> http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...tarting&page=2 I had a problem where the starter motor was turning over, cranking engine but actually would fire up. Problem turned out to be corroded red/orange wire(loom side). That wire went all teh way to ECU plug. As said, no good with electrics and my bike was a Curvy but if it helps somewhat.... |
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#18 | |
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btw, sometimes the search function in forums is sh*t. I never found this thread!
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#19 |
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have u tried bypassing the clutch sfaety switch? unplug it and stick a paper clip in, if it starts up then you have a dodgy switch, £15 to replace, mine acted up not long ago?
might not be but theres my 2p worth ![]() |
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#20 |
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some alarm/immobiliser systems need to be reset after a long lay up or battery disconnection.
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