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#11 |
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The specific thing, is it is a fixed physical relationship between possible distances between center, rolling radii of sprockets versus size of chain, number of links and necessary slack.
The easy thing is to post what configuration you want and see if anyone has done it and if they needed a different chain. From experience, -1 on the front is fine, +2 on the back is fine, -1f +2 rear is fine, but if you want to go up more than 2 teeth on the back you might consider a longer chain. You can always cut them down... Personally, I ended up back to stock naked gearing (15/45/110) after about 90,000 miles of p*ssing about. I also do not recommend 14t front sprockets due to the reduced wear life of these parts, however for some light users it may make no difference if the wear life would be 3 years instead of 4... for me at the time it would have made a difference measured in months, not acceptable.
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Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat Last edited by yorkie_chris; 15-01-13 at 01:19 PM. |
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#12 |
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I haven't looked into it really but a friend sent me this link the other day which apparently will tell you if you need a longer chain when you put all the parameters in.
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#13 |
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Took one look at that link, had a mild epileptic fit due to the colours, had a mild breakdown due to the info it needs and then decided to close it before I had a mild stroke. Will come back to it some other time, many thanks
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#14 |
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It will tell you the difference in theoretical center distance needed. You can look at this (only with a NEW) chain to see the difference in center distance if your proposed new configuration will have enough adjustment either way to get the chain loose enough at first and still have adjustment left.
It will NOT tell you exact answers, there are too many variables. For example... shock length makes a big difference.
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#15 |
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Thats the site I was on about. Its not that complicated if you take your time. YC is right. But it will give you a good starting point. You should get a longer chain and remove links if necessary but the trick is to get it close. You should be able to get it down to 3 or 4 links and then the rest is adjustment on the bike. What you do not want to do is get it short as you've then wasted a chain.
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#16 |
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A 3 link difference is NOT ok.
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#17 |
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#18 | |
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#19 |
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Don't understand. Maybe I'm missing something? I have a DID X ring. DID, or the site I used, offered a selection of chain lengths. I selected the length a bit longer than the one nearest to my altered gearing based on the gearing commander recommendation due to hearing stories about people having a nightmare after finding theirs was too short. Didn't fit myself, but the mechanic said they only had to remove a couple of links. So I took it that the calculator worked.
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#20 |
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I've fitted someone a rear sprocket on a stunt CBR the size of a plate at a seppo breakfast... that needed something like 14 more links... absolutely no problem.
I fitted a chain to mine with 2 more links, worked fine. Go make say a 109 link chain and try rivet the ends together ![]() *I've seen someones face when they've done it, they're almost guaranteed to say "f***" many, many times as they realise they've just knackered a £100 part...
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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