2000 SV650 (Y) have cranking but no sparks

[SV650rules]

To keep battery charged voltage needs to be 14.4 to 14.6 volts, 13.5 would still be too low. There are posts on forum how to check the 3 stator coils are in good shape. Corrosion in plugs and sockets can be a big problem and give funny readings on voltage.

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=237115

[bezsv650]

I will check the connections best I can.

sv650-rules, before I replaced with the mofset r/r I was getting excessively high values up to 17v would that not suggest that the stator is not the issue?

[SV650rules]

Well if it is not the stator and not the RR what else could it be ? stator can produce up to 70 volts IIRC and it is 3 phase ( 3 windings ) if you 'lose' a phase ( one winding ) on stator you do not get 2 phase you get only 1 phase ( same as most small motorbikes ). You need to check resistance of stator coils across the 3 yellow wires, they should be equal values. Most cheap multimeters are not good at accurately checking low resistance values though, but if resistance ( ohm ) values all the same or very close the actual value may not be so important as it would be highly unlikely that all 3 coils have failed.

look at this recent thread

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=236819

I fitted one of the ebay voltmeters suggested by R1ffR4f ( picture in thread ) but found I had to connect it straight to battery via a fuse to get a reliable reading. I used the SAE charging lead I already had on battery and modified another plug and lead ( I have to unplug when bike parked, but a minor inconvenience ) looking at putting a switch or a relay in that works when ignition key turned on. I had a look at the Scottish voltage LED posted by Seeker but it turns green at 13.2 volts to show system is OK, but IMHO 13.2 volts is nowhere near enough to keep battery healthy.

[R1ffR4ff]

With some emery cloth bare the back of the R/R where it meets the frame and also the area on the frame. I had to do this recently on a new cheap R/R I'm testing as they seem to like the whole unit to be grounded and I had to peel the bit of thin protective plastic film off the unit's back as it isn't needed.

[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff

With some emery cloth bare the back of the R/R where it meets the frame and also the area on the frame. I had to do this recently on a new cheap R/R I'm testing as they seem to like the whole unit to be grounded and I had to peel the bit of thin protective plastic film off the unit's back as it isn't needed.

That is interesting, never had an RR with heatsink electrically connected to any of the inputs or outputs ( if any lead reads down to heatsink during testing it normally means you have a problem )- power devices normally get mica insulation and thermal paste and the mounting screws get insulated washers. Wouldn't the fixing bolts connect heatsink to frame ?

Maybe they made RR cheaper by electrically connecting some devices to H/S - but then surely the negative cable would go to frame / ground on bike anyway ( maybe with some volt drop in bike loom though ) ?

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by SV650rules

That is interesting, never had an RR with heatsink electrically connected to any of the inputs or outputs ( if any lead reads down to heatsink during testing it normally means you have a problem )- power devices normally get mica insulation and thermal paste and the mounting screws get insulated washers. Wouldn't the fixing bolts connect heatsink to frame ?

Maybe they made RR cheaper by electrically connecting some devices to H/S - but then surely the negative cable would go to frame / ground on bike anyway ( maybe with some volt drop in bike loom though ) ?

Those are possibilities. All wiring and grounds should be checked. I had some corrosion in an in-line fuse that came with the R/R on a previous R/R test and decided it was unneeded so removed it from the Regulator line

With the one I'm testing it could just be by design with the new circuitry used in it.

I didn't want to post my new link on forums until I had a couple of months on these cheap R/Rs I've found but so far I've done 300 miles plus and no problems,

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/Mosf...orcycleRR.html

Due to short-term work commitments I can't test a 2nd new one I got this week until sometime later this week as my SV650 is my main commuter at the moment

PS.

I liked your 12V voltmeter better than the one I had on which was crapping out a bit anyway so fitted one