Oh poo, I need some bits

[garynortheast]

Logic would dictate that the heavier the end weight the more effective it would be (to this here uninformed plebian at any rate), so I would hazard a guess and say the ally end weights won't work as well as heavier steel ones.
I shall now wait for someone to come along and tell me otherwise.

[Jayneflakes]

This was my understanding too.

[Ruffy]

Originally Posted by garynortheast

Logic would dictate that the heavier the end weight the more effective it would be (to this here uninformed plebian at any rate), so I would hazard a guess and say the ally end weights won't work as well as heavier steel ones.
I shall now wait for someone to come along and tell me otherwise.

My knowledge of physics has waned, but I think it's a bit more complicated than that.

As I recall: Generally, yes, a heavier weight will damp more due to higher natural mechanical inertia resisting movement. But that same inertia that resists movement from rest can also work against the situation, keeping it moving once it's started (remember we're only dealing with small movements of the bars, but movement nonetheless). So technically there are also other mechanical system design considerations to take into account to avoid undesirable positive mechanical feedback and resonance effects. Sometimes, less is more! I hope that makes some sort of sense to you.

The precise 'at risk' natural frequency point will depend on things like length of bar from clamp, stiffness, mass of bar-end weight, bike suspension performance etc. so I can't offer any helpful way to know if the lighter ally bar ends will be enough, other than "try 'em and see how they feel". Sorry!

[Ruffy]

Originally Posted by Jayneflakes

...Our local fire crew arrived and scrubbed down the road, to prevent other riders from the same fate. But given that this is the roundabout that serves Sainsbury's and their petrol station...


...My insurance covers my bike only, but I don't want to lose my no claims ...

If it hasn't occurred to you already, I suggest writing a polite but angry letter or two to the Council and to Sainsbury's, demanding compensation from them due to their failure to deliver adequate maintenance or failure to exercise sufficient care that their trading doesn't cause danger. And maybe get the MP or local media involved to kick up a bit of a fuss if needs be? Sounds like there's a definite design and/or implementation problem here and why should you suffer loss like this? (Gather evidence of the attendance of the fire and ambulance by asking for their control logs.)

Whilst I'm not generally a fan of 'ambulance chaser'-type legal action, I do believe there are still legitimate expectations of corporate responsibility and liability that we should be able to rely on in decent society, so I think it's got to be worth a punt to see if they'll stump up something towards the repair of the bike.

[Jayneflakes]

The rebuild has started...
I have a damaged thread on the back of the heel plate, that holds the bracket for the brake reservoir. That has been fixed and only took a slight drilling and retapping slightly larger.

I have discovered a crack in the fairing, but again, it is nothing that I cannot fix, A chunk of plastic about 2x6 cm is missing from the lower side though.

The replacement brake pedal has just arrived and it is filthy dirty, so needs washing, filing and polishing to get it to the same standard as what I had before.. I have a busy afternoon ahead of me. I am also babysitting my friend's silver tabby kitten while she is away for the weekend, so I have kitten company to help with the technical bits!
As for me, I have some revolting looking bruising forming on my lower leg. I look like a battered wife!

[R1ffR4ff]

I had some lighter bar weights that came with one bike. Waste of time. Get heavy solid ones.

These look like the bizz and I would buy them if I needed to replace mine



Note: If you are suffering from vibrations it's almost always Carbs out-of-balance. Here's my Carb balance page.

https://straticus.epizy.com/SV650CarbBalance.html

I suffer from Industrial VWF ( Vibration White Finger ) and shoulder problems so have to keep vibrations on my Motorcycle to a minimum.

Wing mirrors are a good indicator of vibrations.

If you check out this little video of my SV650 going across the Humber bridge you will see by looking at the mirrors they are clear of vibration and therefore there's little or none through my bars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmOo_AhyJJU&t=1s

[Jayneflakes]

Thank you. As it was, my bar weights had some scratches, but with a bit of gentle file and sandpaper work, they polished up lovely. So much so, that I clear coated them, rather than painting them. They look great.

I recently had the injectors balanced, I was quite surprised at how much difference it made to tick over. It was barely out, but after, she sounded lush and rode beautifully.

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by Jayneflakes

Thank you. As it was, my bar weights had some scratches, but with a bit of gentle file and sandpaper work, they polished up lovely. So much so, that I clear coated them, rather than painting them. They look great.

I recently had the injectors balanced, I was quite surprised at how much difference it made to tick over. It was barely out, but after, she sounded lush and rode beautifully.

My mistake. I didn't realise you have EFI. Glad the weights came good. Bar end weights don't usually damp vibrations but move the resonant frequency if there is one to a point where it doesn't bother the rider

The ones in my old Hondas came as stock and were special inasmuch as they were anti-vibration design a bit like these,

Bar End Weights Ali Express

[garynortheast]

How are the repairs going Jayne? What will you do about the missing plastic from the fairing? Hope the bruising is not too painful!

[Jayneflakes]

I have been pulling my hair out with repairs... Namely electrical. I smashed the front right hand side LED indicator, in the fairing, when I came off. This was a lovely little flush mount unit and it has until this incident worked very well.

So I bought new set of the same and set about fitting them in, with the old ballast resistors. Having a brand new matched pair, I wired in both and yet only the left hand side worked. I stripped everything down and checked every connection. The lighting plug in the nose cone is a little corroded, but I have cleaned that up with electrical contact cleaner and a brush. I checked the continuity of every plug and join and everything worked fine. Finally, with nothing left to check, I tested the new indicators. One of them is faulty and guess which side I fitted that too?


So I have been chasing my tail all day, getting more and more annoyed... I have now replaced a perfectly working unit with another perfectly working, but newer unit and have now taken out a brand new failed unit and refitted the older working unit.

Now my brain hurts.

To add the joy, my now all grown up daughter came home from work (she is an engineer, to add context) and suggested fitting an adjustable flasher can so I can do away with the ballast resistors. So I pulled out the wiring manual for my precious K3 only to find that it does not use a standard flasher relay... It is a funny box of tricks that also does the side stand switch.

WHY DOES IT ALL HAVE TO BE SO (apply your own and offensively rude swearing here, because mine would embarrass a Sailor who dropped an anchor on his foot!) DIFFICULT?