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Old 04-04-25, 07:32 AM   #11
glang
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Default Re: Project SV

Did my rebound holes (not that Ive noticed any difference) with solder. Countersunk the outside a little and then made a blob on the end of a bit of solder wire. Fed this through the hole from the inside and melted the bit sticking out to fill the hole. Worked a treat...
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Old 04-04-25, 09:05 AM   #12
tactcom7
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Originally Posted by garynortheast View Post
Ha ha! I'll be interested to see how you feel about that after you get caught in the rain and have to clean the front of the bike off!

Any more progress on the project?
Tell me about it, rode my last one round Scotland and spent 3 days in the rain. Lost count the number of times I had to dry the front plug hole out. Probably too ambitious to hope I don't get rained on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bibio View Post
I'm pretty sure that there are supposed to be metal spacers in with washers there where the sockets are. Most folks just use plastic plumbing pipe cut down to get the ride height right. If you know s welder get the rebound holes welded up.
Good to know thank you Nice to see you're still around as well. Had to take the forks to a shop to strip as I don't have the tool to hold the dampers while I take the bottom bolt out, they girl there suggested emulators (?) Popular on the racing circuit apparently?

Quote:
Originally Posted by glang View Post
Did my rebound holes (not that Ive noticed any difference) with solder. Countersunk the outside a little and then made a blob on the end of a bit of solder wire. Fed this through the hole from the inside and melted the bit sticking out to fill the hole. Worked a treat...
Interesting fix, I'll have a look once the forks are stripped and see how they look, thank you.

As for progress, got the hole for the Oil Sensor welded up so I need to drill and tap that, then it's off to the powdercoaters
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Old 04-04-25, 11:55 AM   #13
redtrummy
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Default Re: Project SV

Would sealing with a pop rivet work?
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Old 04-04-25, 12:35 PM   #14
glang
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Its possible but not sure about possibility of protruding head contacting something - see attached...
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File Type: gif Captura de pantalla_4-4-2025_143056_racetech.gif (66.5 KB, 0 views)
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Old 04-04-25, 07:49 PM   #15
tactcom7
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keep trying to reply but apparently a moderator has to review and approve it :/
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Old 05-04-25, 09:20 AM   #16
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keep trying to reply but apparently a moderator has to review and approve it :/
Sorry I didn't spot the prompt to approve. Now done.
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Old 05-04-25, 10:35 AM   #17
glang
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Originally Posted by tactcom7 View Post
Had to take the forks to a shop to strip as I don't have the tool to hold the dampers while I take the bottom bolt out,
Normally its enough to slacken the bottom bolt with the fork still on the bike but obviously axle removed. The force of the spring inside should hold the damper tight and the same for retightening when finished....
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Old 05-04-25, 05:58 PM   #18
tactcom7
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Originally Posted by glang View Post
Normally its enough to slacken the bottom bolt with the fork still on the bike but obviously axle removed. The force of the spring inside should hold the damper tight and the same for retightening when finished....
Sadly I read that bit in the manual AFTER I'd taken them off Classic.
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Old 06-04-25, 07:04 AM   #19
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Default Re: Project SV

I used a woodworkers sash clamp to compress each leg in turn,this increasing the pressure insidethebleg, allowing the bolt to undo
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Old 09-04-25, 03:27 PM   #20
tactcom7
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I'd forgotten how much parts cost these days, just spent £80 on bearings for the swingarm and suspension knuckle thing.

Filed off all the flashing (?) on the handlebars and sent a load off to the powdercoaters, swingarm etc.
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