(just a quicky) - RnG Crash bungs

There is a Torque setting in the Manual for the engine bolts and they should be set to this regardless of what else is attached.

M+P have got Moko's on Ebay at the mo, got my last set for £29.99 and crash far better than R+G's.
Had 3 fast offs this year all on the rhs at Brands, Snett and Knockhill on the same set of Moko's with only the end of the bung worn, no sign of bending.
I have yet to see a bike with r+g's that has not bent after a crash.

Originally Posted by hall13uk

did not think they needed to be torqued does not say that anywhere in the instructions

You must be one of those people who needs warning stickers like "Contains nuts" on packets of peanuts.

No offence, but instructions will always assume you have a certain level of technical competance and won't describe everything in detail to the n-th degree. When they tell you to do up a nut you're expected to know to turn it clockwise, that you should use tools not your hands, and that major stress baring components such as engine bolts need to be done up sufficiently tighly!

Originally Posted by Robw#70

There is a Torque setting in the Manual for the engine bolts and they should be set to this regardless of what else is attached.

M+P have got Moko's on Ebay at the mo, got my last set for £29.99 and crash far better than R+G's.
Had 3 fast offs this year all on the rhs at Brands, Snett and Knockhill on the same set of Moko's with only the end of the bung worn, no sign of bending.
I have yet to see a bike with r+g's that has not bent after a crash.

My R&G bent when used in anger but im happy it did, as id rather the bolt take the energy and not the frame.

Knee clearance is something to think about with the new design R&G's.
My knees do touch but its not uncomfortable at all. If i was a little taller tho, I think they would be a pain in the a**.

I just ordered some new style bungs off MandP (as my bike has lowers) and they've sent me the old style... thanks guys.

[northwind]

The Moko ones look excellent but they still require cutting the fairing lowers... I'd choose 'em over old R&Gs, especialyl at that price, but the new ones seem better made as well as being practical with the lowers. Mien did bend, but then it was a pretty big crash and the brackets are all fine. The bung was ****ed anyway so it's pretty much irrelevant if the short bolt bent or not.

Originally Posted by Flamin_Squirrel

You must be one of those people who needs warning stickers like "Contains nuts" on packets of peanuts.

No offence, but instructions will always assume you have a certain level of technical competance and won't describe everything in detail to the n-th degree. When they tell you to do up a nut you're expected to know to turn it clockwise, that you should use tools not your hands, and that major stress baring components such as engine bolts need to be done up sufficiently tighly!

well of course i would tighten it but as far as setting & stuff u have lost me

You'll know if you get the new or old type (i assume) as the old ones come in a long thin package with a single rod and no bridge plates.

I thought the RnG ones were the ones to go for.. HAve I made a boo boo then?

They cost me £70.

Originally Posted by Daimo

I thought the RnG ones were the ones to go for.. HAve I made a boo boo then?

They cost me £70.

Nope

r+g,s are the ones that most peeps use so they must b ok,,,,iv got bikeslider ones on mine(cloggsys old ones)and they were torqued up when on ,it was 75lb/ft i was told .r+g must b similiar if its the same mounting system(big bolt that goes right through frame and engine together).